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Starter Flange Broke & Cracked my Block

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Old 08-11-2011, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperC1
The reason I asked is because normally that's what happens if you try to start the car with a weak battery the starter will attempt to turn and then kick back and snap the mount on the block, thats what happened when I mine broke. The thin arm on the stock starter will break in some cases too. You can go back with a truck starter that has a thick flange on both sides, this will provide more support to the starter.
I think you're on to something there. My battery was weak, but it had plenty of juice to start the car. It still failed and broke though, and took the chunk out of the engine block too.
Old 08-11-2011, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008
I think you're on to something there. My battery was weak, but it had plenty of juice to start the car. It still failed and broke though, and took the chunk out of the engine block too.
The battery needs to be fully charged when starting, there may have been enough juice there to turn it over but if it doesn't crank right away and it begins to drag this is usually the result. Kick back can happen quick and a starter can fall right out on the ground, ask me how I know. I still have the chunk of the block that broke on mine sitting on my desk.
Old 08-11-2011, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperC1
The battery needs to be fully charged when starting, there may have been enough juice there to turn it over but if it doesn't crank right away and it begins to drag this is usually the result. Kick back can happen quick and a starter can fall right out on the ground, ask me how I know. I still have the chunk of the block that broke on mine sitting on my desk.
Damn.

Damn, damn, damn!
Old 08-11-2011, 03:36 PM
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I had the same thing happen to me on my 99 Z28. Relocated battery to the trunk but during the downtime the battery got weak...tried to start and clunk. I got out looked under the car and I could see the starter hanging down.

Here is the fix that worked for me:
Trailered car to a shop with a good tig machine and an experienced weldor. He welded it while the motor was still in the car.

Bought a truck starter with the thick outer boss.

Worked great and never another issue. I think I paid 200 or 250 to have the block welded.
Old 08-11-2011, 06:19 PM
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Man, I would pay twice that much and not even blink if I could get off that easy!
Old 08-12-2011, 12:50 PM
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this also happens if you dont use the correct knurled starter bolts.
Old 02-01-2012, 02:40 PM
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Exclamation 01 z28 same exact problem

I took my starter out today because it was making horrible noises before i stored it. when i got under the car i realized the starter flange was cracked right off, then when retrieving the other bolt i realized the outside bolt whole was slightly cracked in 2 places. Not as bad as the pics above but just about. Anyone else have this problem and able to get it welded while motor is still in? Thanks
Old 02-01-2012, 03:06 PM
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Mine crack 2 starter until i notice the crack in the bolt hole and the crack piece fall off I took the engine out and have a mobile welding guy come oever to my house and he grind it down then weld it up for $80
Old 02-01-2012, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dlosurdo1
I took my starter out today because it was making horrible noises before i stored it. when i got under the car i realized the starter flange was cracked right off, then when retrieving the other bolt i realized the outside bolt whole was slightly cracked in 2 places. Not as bad as the pics above but just about. Anyone else have this problem and able to get it welded while motor is still in? Thanks
What car do you have?
Old 02-01-2012, 08:47 PM
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^01 z28 with appearance package
Old 02-01-2012, 09:34 PM
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This is not an uncommon problem especially on ls6's. The permanent fix(once the block is fixed) is to get a new style starter which uses two long bolts rather than one long and one short.
Old 02-01-2012, 10:56 PM
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HOLY. CRAP. This is something that I'd never even thought about... I hate that it's happened to anyone here, but I'm sure thankful for everyone who's been willing to share their experiences... (Especially since I'm doing a trunk-mounted battery!)
Old 02-02-2012, 07:21 PM
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could i get a few opinions? I want to know if i should get it welded for now (and hopefully be able to rely on it, until i have the $ to modify) or should i take the time and $ to get a new block and go through the whole thing. I am easy on the car, sometimes WOT but usual take it easy on her. i just want to be able to trust the weld...thanks guys
Old 02-02-2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dlosurdo1
could i get a few opinions? I want to know if i should get it welded for now (and hopefully be able to rely on it, until i have the $ to modify) or should i take the time and $ to get a new block and go through the whole thing. I am easy on the car, sometimes WOT but usual take it easy on her. i just want to be able to trust the weld...thanks guys
From what I've read (and I've done a ton of research on this), if you get it TIG welded, it will hold. I have not heard of anyone having any issues after having it TIG welded. Check out what this guy did:































He offered to fix mine if I brought him the block. That's some outstanding work he does!
Old 02-02-2012, 10:32 PM
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If you can get the trans out and have someone to weld it for you it will be fine, especially if you go with the truck starter. If not, pull the block and have the piece that broke welded back with the screw in it, just dont weld the screw so you can screw it back out once your finished welding and it should hold up just fine. Thats how I did mine and it cranks with no issues.
Old 02-02-2012, 10:58 PM
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Thanks guys, it helps out alot. I have been bummin for days about this
Old 02-02-2012, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dlosurdo1
Thanks guys, it helps out alot. I have been bummin for days about this
The main thing that you need to make sure of is that the starter broke due to the flawed starter design and not an engine hydrolock occurrence. If the break was because of hydrolock and you attempt to start that motor with the new starter, you WILL destroy something in the block and end up pulling the motor. I suggest a compression check while the motor is HOT to make sure your head gaskets are not blown.

Ask me how I know...





Old 02-03-2012, 02:57 PM
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You know another question is why is'nt there a rear bracket on the LS gen3/4 starters like the gen1's & 2's ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,would probably eliminate all this ? Ask Me how I know !!!!!!!!! Oh Ya !!
Old 02-03-2012, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by chrisfrost
You know another question is why is'nt there a rear bracket on the LS gen3/4 starters like the gen1's & 2's ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,would probably eliminate all this ? Ask Me how I know !!!!!!!!! Oh Ya !!
Old 09-04-2012, 12:27 PM
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This happend to my LS1 last week and i did som digging here is what i found a bracket instals with the block in its 350 bucks but if your going to pay 250 to weld it pay the extra hundred and save the trouble of pulling the motor

http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html


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