Mikko

Something has been done during long Finnish winter, main mission was steering and get wheels turn like they should in driftcar.


I made new lower control arms, using oldones as base. 7cm longer per side, changed wheels from 8x17et -10 to 8x16 et 8 and tyres from 235 -> 205. Now wheels can turn in THEORY 65 degrees



Then i get rid of old steering box and started to fit rack & pinion steering, i choosed Volvo 240 aluminium core rack, they use these in rally cars here and you can get different ratios to those, I had custom made infernals to that, now 2.5 turns lock to lock, in normal tarvel distance... And added 10cm more lenght to rack, so total travel now 28cm, should be enough....?



Then modified, knucles in right lenght and angle, i made bolt on adapters to knuckles, tested movements few times with those and when it was right made jigs and welded knuckles in those, maintained to keep them symmetrical that way, now it turns that 65 degrees and basically no ackerman at any turning angle. And doesnīt go near to dead angle at full lock, few days well spent



But how to route Steering axle, front crossmember was badly in way. Get 90 degree rotating gearbox to it Pic shows also how i solves upper control arm issue, i moved those from inside of brackets in frame to outside, so those moved 60cm out which correlated lenghtening of lower arms.



And last steering mod was to fit Opel Corsa C steering colum, tilt and elecric Power steering with adjustable sensitivity.



But then front wheel stick out 5cm from fenders, and front end had seen itīs better days also otherwise. So little glasfiber and paint.

Btw. couldnīt afford zipties...





Thats all about steering, not at full lock in this pic yeat.





Then gearbox rebuild, it was kind of "loose" and i managed to do lot of misshifts in last season so in went new ->

-Carbon fiber Blocking rings

-Billet Keys for the 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 and Reverse Synchronizer Assembly, with stronger springs for keys

-T56 3-4 Steel Shift Fork, used in Viper, standars aluminium is weak link

-3-4 Synchronizer Assembly. Complete new.

-Bronze fork pads for all shift forks.

Im glad i did it, feels completely different to shift. Otherwise nothing fancy changes in engine, otherwise than adding accusump -> Canton Racing Products 24-026 - Canton Racing Accusump Oil Accumulators - Overview - SummitRacing.com
to make sure that engine has alwas oil and oilcooler.



To rear axle, i decided to get rid of leaf springs and go with Four-link setup. I got Competition engineering universal kit and that assembly is in progress right now. Final gear ratio is also going to change from 1:3.72 to 1:4.1 so fourth gear will also get in use. And axle shafts change to Mosers stronger ones.





And one more, polished it for car to :-)

Mikko

Few vids from last race, went pretty good, first podium place this season. First vid may be most interesting. Most of Camaro at the end.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUgCYPSjTok

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP3NSH__4LY

http://vilenius.kuvat.fi/kuvat/video...6.7%202011.mp4

blkjck

nice vids, at 8:00 on teh last vid did the door open when you am into view?? lol

Mikko

Hah, yeah that opened in the corner and i had to close that during drift...

Mikko

Havenīt posted anything to here for a long time, no major upgrades to car. So letīs post up couple of vids from last race that was driven, Finnish national championship.

Entertaining

http://vimeo.com/44117334

And more documentic with just my driving and all tandem runs. Major fail at 4:40, handbrake fell apart there...

CutLS

iTrader: (6)

Nice car. Looks like you have a nice track to play on there. I remember the first time I saw one of your main videos, it made me want to get my LS swap started right away. Keep shredding them tires.

Mikko

Finnish season over, i did placed fifth at overall points in Finnish National drift championship series, i may be wrong but it may be first real national series driven under FIA. About 30 drivers... Not so bad, but not the way i planned it offcourse.

Cars are getting faster and faster, pretty much all top10 cars are in 600-800hp range, im struggling against with my barely over 500hp, funny still, Camaro is lighter than most of other cars. But iīm in need of supercharger if planning to run series next year with somesord of goals in mind, or trying to make 100-150hp more an N/A but, letīs see what i come up next winter...

Otherwise car is good, pretty well balanced and i have pretty much grip and speed in reserve if just would have power to spin those wheels, fast tracks which accelerate toward finish are pain...

Somesord of videoclip from last race, i did drive my this season only podium race in this, placed second. Other bests were 2 fourth places...

But hereīs the film, no one donīt watch whole 14min so quick guide on my battles

Top 16 in 5:20 against Pasi Koliseva and his Toyota Celica ST20? with ~600hp 1JZ

Top8 in 8:20 against Henri Haanpää and his Toyota JZX90, 2JZ about 600hp, that following was probably my best with this car.

Top4 in 9:50 against Marko Kivi, Lexus IS200 and 2JZ, 640hp if i remember right
Top4 OMT at 11:20

Final in 13:35 agains real rookie of the year, Harri Kosunen (won the Championship) with Skyline R33 with supercharged LS2 and 670hp. It is two time Finnish championship car by previous owner.


Incar from first test on dry track, pretty shitty runs have to say


Another vid from last race...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...6diHVIA#t=697s


Im open for ideas how to make reliable N/A 100hp more on this 475whp LS3, now just cam, exhaust and standalone ecu. Best idea in my mind is Procharger D1 series an E85 fuel. Ok it should be good for atleast 700hp but...

1970 LSCamaro

iTrader: (5)

Awesome car brother....I love the look

94nismoformula

thats awesome, never seen that kind of steering angle on a 2nd gen, nor seen one being drifted competitively. beautiful car

Mikko

Angle hasnīt come easy if you look pics above. If iīve do it again and just plain driftcar. I would simply make new tubular front frame and use some Nissan Or Toyota front crossmember and suspension with shiny bolt-on parts, Wisefab or something with 70deg angle.

I just had a problem, i also use this at road racing, itīs called Historic Race Finland and Roadsport V8 series, and by their regulations, you cant make modifications to frame and must keep front suspension type same as original...

Mikko

Project 2012:

Itīs time for small rebuild and few bigger upgrades.

I wont be posting pics and storys to so many forums as earlier,

But whoīs interested, join Autoviitala drifting team facebook group and youīll see pics and stories, no addīs and useless posts. Iīll start writing posts also english starting now.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/42830947301/


Plans:
-Add 1 Paxton Novi 2200SL Centrifugal supercharger, with Corvette C6 brackets from ECS.
-Fuel -> E85, few upgrades regarding to that, KMS EV14 1210cc injectors
-Car front end -> RS, add front spoiler
-Repaint and new graphix
-To rear BC Racing Coil-overs
-Small changes and adjustments to front end geometry
-Rear brake calibers wilwood dynalite -> superlite
-Maybe small upgrage to engine bottom end, ARP & ACL

Mikko

Few updates...

Finnish winter is long and cold, better to stay in garage.

First we did gave body bit tidening up and makeover.
We made new front fenders (and offcourse moldings for those.) New RS model front end parts with few added OEM goodies. Lotīs of fitting and body straightening and new paintjob and graphix. Still missing RS front lip...











Engine:

First i changed ACL Race conrod bearings and ARP conrod bolts, checked pushrods and did basic maintenance.
Then bit redo on fuelsystem, E85 compatible foams to fuelcell, KMS 1210cc injectors. Holley HP series low pressure fuel pump, new filters and couple lines that werent meant with E85.
Then added oil cooler adapter palte and connected Accusump oil accumulator and Oil cooler.




Then offcourse a centrifugal supercharger Paxton Novi 2200SL,with ECS brackets. That pumps max. 1450cfm, 1000hp. Little less on my car. 600x300x100 chinese intercooler. And VAG 60mm electric throtle body used as blow-off. Other mechanical blow-of used as boost control...










Then bit off hazle with charger belts, with that throttle body. And with boost (was bit too much 0-7-0.8bar) and A1000 fuelpumpu met itīs limits.

Dynograph from first test, bit too much boost, bit too low on fuel and we did stop there, lots of power on reserve.





I changed fuelpump to Fuelab Prodigy 1500hp, did few upgrades and another try, on 0.5-0.6bar boost gave folloving, clutch or tyres did slip after 5500rpm, but it pulls on great to 6600rpm.





Season can begin

This time i donīt post on-season picīs and videos on forumīs, if interested follow my Autoviitala drifiting team group on facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/42830947301/

Mikko

Evolution of Camaro continues

I did re-design front suspension. Removed front springs that were between frame and lower control arm. Made new upper mounts for coil-overs. S13 coilies, modified lower end. Also changed upper controld arms to SPC adjustable ones, here comes Caster.





6-rib charger belts didnīt hold up that long last summer, changed over 10 of them during summer. So i did bought Summit SFI 8-rib balancer and changed 8-rib charger pulley and belt. Hope it helps... Gates belt align lazer was great help when aligning pulleys, good buy from Rockauto.




Re-made fuel lines from enginebay. With ebay cheapo AN fittings and Nylon-braided fuel line that should accept RE85, also Holley fuel rails had been allready changed after last posts.

Also changed original throtle body that had been modified from DBW to cable driven. It didnīt work properly and eated couple of TPS sensors during 4 summers. Ebay china-billet one seemed quite good for itīs price.



Also did made support bar to back of bonnet. It was quite restless in high speeds without additional rear center pins. Also should keep smells at engine out from cabin. Heater inlet is front of screen as usual.



[img]http://forum.vastaheitto.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4116.0;attach=6257 ;image[/im


....to be continued

Noahf

this build is bad ***!

Mikko

Finally.

Hereīs video from last season, sounds better with S/C

Mikko

Season has started and couple first races driven, won first one Came 8th in second one, very hot day and technical issues cause of that.

If interested, few short video clips from first races in -> https://www.facebook.com/autoviitaladrift

Just scroll down.

NemeCes

iTrader: (1)

This car is amazing! Keep up the awesome work!

Mikko

Damn, first real proper technical failure.

Like posted earlier, swapped to 8-rib belt, and didnīt notice that boost climbed up few psi after that This is quite wild to drive and canīt too much stare at meters when ripping it...

And now it keeps overheating, and makes pretty much air/pressure to coolaning system after hard pull. So somesord of head/gasket etc failure.

Known problems in these LS3 engines? And known fixes? My season budget was pretty much spent so this wasnīt good one if much more than gasket job.

Did these L92 heads have some issue with failing under boost? My google donīt tell me anything.

Gotta have pictures in every post





Painted the interior earlier, and made new dash with some new meters.

And also did this colour matching Mopar



But, that headgasket etc. failure thing, bit of help please.

Jax326

I'm assuming that the ls3 was still using stock head gaskets and stock TTY head bolts. When you accidentally over boosted you probably lifted a head and torched a head gasket. Upgrade to some ARP head studs and ls9 gaskets and you should be fine. As long as the tune is good, of course!
Very impressive work taking it from a big bumper camaro to looking like an early second gen. Especially the metal work on the back window. Looks good.

Mikko

Yes it was unopened engine with stock parts. LS9 gaskets better than for example Cometic MLS? I was going to order those.

Arp studs can just be bolted to engine? Doesnīt effect on bore? Meaning cause disortion etc.