TxTtopZ

I know there is a ton of info on TGO about this on my but since it's been beat to death over there...
How much all said and done did the swap cost? I know it's gonna cost, but being the broke @$$ I am (wife+kids+house etc) I would like to know what the avg. price tag is for this?
Who's got the BEST priced swap parts? (mounts etc.)
K member, cut or tubular K? I live in TX and its just too hot not to run A/C, especially with t-tops which makes it WORSE.
The stock rear end lift span? I will be using the 3.23 factory 10 bolt from 1985 for a while.
T56 swap or Auto? I like stick, but a fast auto gives a killer ride! And, how much power does the 4L60E put up with?
- Best converter? Best programmer?
Exhaust - who makes a cheap y-pipe for the stock headers?
ECU - anyone sell a swap (program) that tunes out the un used systems?
As you can tell, I have not researched this yet, as the idea of just buying a 4th gen to begin with escaped me???? At least i'll have the style I like.

deuce4935

iTrader: (2)

No need to cut or buy another k-member, swap parts cost are all over the board, mounts ranging from $40.00+. Stock rear would hold up as long as you're not past the 425rwhp range and depending on the mileage of the rear. As for the trans, thats solely dependent on your personal preference, just be sure to get a t56 from a LS vehicle or check with Keisler if planning on running any other man trans. Stock 4l60e doesnt like to be pushed past 400ft/lbs. I did the minimum to my 4l60e and upgraded the sunshell, servo, boost valve spring and added a shift kit. Yank or CircleD converter imo rule the streets, and i wouldnt go with anything less than 3200 stall, even for the street. I wouldnt bother with a handheld programmer, just get it dynotuned by a reputable shop. Why bother with a y-pipe when you can have true duals with an "X" or "H" added in. Are you planning on running a aftermarket or modified stock harness? If stock, whoever modifies the harnes should be able to deactivate any unwanted controls in the pcm, or buy your own HPTuners and do your own programming and tuning.

TxTtopZ

Thanks for the reply!!
I actually am not a fan of true duals on third gens, most of them hang too low and end up getting bent or worse. The K member notch is necessary to retain the A/C on a third gen camaro. No way around it unless you buy the tubular piece. I ran a circle d t.c. on my 98 Stang, very nice piece indeed! I have to have overdrive, it's a shame the 4l60e is so weak! Ford auto's 4r70w can take a hellacious beating! I may end up keeping the 700r4, mines in good shape. I am aware of dyno tuning, but the honest truth is I have been tuning myself with SCT pro racer package on my stang.. so anything like that would be ideal for me so HPTuners it is! Nice Bu! I need to find a cheap place for fbody or vette accessories....the harness will probably be an aftermarket one for better looks, the price is worth the time savings and neatness to me. I have done harnesses before when I worked for a dyno shop here in Austin. NO FUN!

deuce4935

iTrader: (2)

You can purchase a Kwikperf.com a/c bracket which requires you to use a Sanden compressor but the bracket will mount the compressor on the upper pass-side of the engine which once again, eliminates k-member worries.

TxTtopZ

Really?!!! How much is the compressor? I have not heard of this til now, good thing I joined up... do you have a website??

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

pm sent

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

It's been beat to death over there so we likely have it down pretty good

Cheapest mounts are the ebay adapter plates for a SBC mounts. If you google hard enough you can even find diagrams to cut your own from 1/4" plate. They dont clear the 4th gen AC compressor though

Keeping with the uber cheap theme, Id notch the K-member for the 4th gen AC compressor. The remote kit requires an aftermarket compressor (expensive) along with the necessary brackets (overly expensive for what they are) and the necessary AC mods to the HVAC box, custom lines, wiring etc. Much easier to use the stock AC compressor and bracket (usually free with the engine) and notch the stock K-member

Stock rear will be fine unless you abuse it. Think slicks, hotfooting railroad tracks, dukes of hazard stuff

Trans type is personal choice. Go drive a few 4th gens. The 4L60E is nothing like your old 700R4. You will like it

Best stall is dependent on your cam/gears and even knowing those it's still subjective

Id advise against using the 700R4, even a freshly built one wont be the same as a newer trans designed to be behind the LSx. Read over 3.1EyeCandy's thread and his eventual swap to 4L60E

No y-pipes exist for 4th gen manifolds into a 4rd gen. Hawks y-pipe for their own swap headers doesnt have such a great track record either. Good luck fitting duals under a 3rd without severely sacrificing ground clearance

PCM, just about every tuner out there offers this type of service

Id suggest atleast reading the LS1 swap sticky on TGO. All of those questions about fitment are covered. User preference stuff like A4/M6 is up to you. While you're in there, read over a few of the completed swaps to know what you're in for

Read over my wiring threads in the sticky. Since you've done them before it should be a no-brainer

TxTtopZ

Did you even read anything I posted? Seriously? Thanks for the info anyway.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

I went point by point through your posts, but if you dont want to listen to me, then thats ok