Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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LS1 and 200-4r to L92 / T56 in 71 Chevelle convertible...now Gen V LT1 6L80e swapping

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Old 11-14-2010, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
The DD and summit VSS are pass thru. They screw into the trans output, the speedo cable screws into the VSS.
Do a seach on pcv here, there are a few options on how to hook up.
The pic in yourv last post is the canister purge solenoid. Remove it, block off the port into the manifold.
Okay, thanks again. I wasn't sure if one side was usable and the other garbage, I'll just pull the whole thing out then.

Looked around for that qtp piece, but $50 seems pretty steep for two pieces of metal welded together. A load leveler runs $25 and I think will prove more useful so I might grab one of those today. Here is a plate that seems slightly more versatile but still seems expensive for what you get. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/QTP-1...motiveQ5fTools
Old 11-14-2010, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by chuckd71
Okay, thanks again. I wasn't sure if one side was usable and the other garbage, I'll just pull the whole thing out then.

Looked around for that qtp piece, but $50 seems pretty steep for two pieces of metal welded together. A load leveler runs $25 and I think will prove more useful so I might grab one of those today. Here is a plate that seems slightly more versatile but still seems expensive for what you get. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/QTP-1...motiveQ5fTools
That is the QTP plate he was mentioning before. The most expensive tool is the one you don't have when you need it. LOL
GL
Old 11-14-2010, 10:53 AM
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Sorry, I meant this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TPI-L...item3f04a8328b
Old 11-16-2010, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
I did an LQ9 and Richmond 6 speed in my 68 corvette.
You'll need VSS to avoid stalling problems. I got a Dakota digital that fits on the mechanical speedo output. The only problem is that it puts out fewer pulses per mile so it causes difficulty trying to hook up cruise control with the DBW TB. Thinking about ordering this one;
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2887-1/
.
So if I'm not using cruise, this one would work as well, right? All the computer is looking for to avoid the stall issue is some sort of speed, the pulses can be off so long as there are pulses, is that correct?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-SEN-01-4160/

Edit- found answer. https://ls1tech.com/forums/14031567-post27.html
Old 11-16-2010, 10:40 AM
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That's the one I'm using. If you buy directly from Dakota Digital, they have a short cable you can request if the area around the speedo output is tight.
Old 11-19-2010, 03:45 PM
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So I picked up one of the speedo units, this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
so if I can find some kind of directions hopefully I can get it on this weekend. I also have to install a flexible dipstick and the long spring from bowtie overdrives so it should be an absolute blast, especially considering my pan has no drain plug. Not sure what to do about that. I would love to get either a pan with a drain or have a drain put in mine, but instead of screwing a plug into the hole use a trans temp sending unit. Has anyone done that? Seems like it would kill two birds with one stone.

Thanks to the 40% off coupons at advance auto I also picked up some starter bolts, an engine leveler for my hoist, a temp sender to replace the one in the driver's side head, random gaskets, some tools, soldering gun and etc, ramps and various paints and odds and ends, all for $100. Pretty solid score. Also picked up fuel pressure fitting but Summit is still backordered on their twist-tite fittings.
I also got one of these wiring diagrams: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
The fact that it is laminated and color has proven useful, though the previous owner really dicked up my wiring. Can't remember if I mentioned it before but I bought a complete power window and door lock setup and maplight rearview out of cutlass convert and have to hook that up as well before I have the top redone. I also ran across a power seat back release, which they only put in a few hundred cars. It ties into the power lock harness somehow.
Debating whether to put a walbro or a denso fuel pump in my spectra tank, any opinions?
Not much of an update really, but at least we made it out of the garage. And by that I mean I pushed it out and then back in. Sometimes the small victories matter.


Other than that the last time it spent anything resembling time out in the wild it was riding shotgun and then getting hit in the side. I wish I had known how long this was going to take when I decided it would be a good idea.

Last edited by chuckd71; 11-19-2010 at 03:54 PM.
Old 11-21-2010, 07:22 AM
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I put the vss adapter in yesterday, took about 10 minutes or so. While I was down there I remembered that my lock up has been controlled by a vacuum switch running off the carb, which I am not sure will still work with the new setup, or where to hook it up.
This looks like an option, but it's not cheap. Ideas? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70244

Edit - I just bought one of these b&M pieces and plan to sell the dakota digital piece. Using the code "visa" for $50 off and going through ebates.com first it came to around $135 which is far cheaper than anywhere else I could find it. Just throwing that out there.

Last edited by chuckd71; 01-25-2011 at 01:36 AM.
Old 12-03-2010, 01:56 AM
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Just out of curiosity, if the plan is to have an H-pipe can I put a single electric cutout in it? Or would it be better to use one on each side of the long pipes? My mufflers are going to be quiet, and the cutout(s) will be purely for sound.
Old 12-03-2010, 07:01 AM
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I am running the my cut out on the 4" down pipe about a foot before it splits to go to my pipes that run throughout the mufflers to the rear
( I haven't done this yet but that's the plan)
Old 12-04-2010, 05:51 AM
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You could puta single cutout in the H but I don't think it would sound right.
Old 01-01-2011, 01:51 PM
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You should put air ride on it too, it would be nassssty
Old 01-01-2011, 08:27 PM
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Awesome build! I love how thorough you are. Keep it up! Beautiful car too.
Old 01-01-2011, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckd71
Just out of curiosity, if the plan is to have an H-pipe can I put a single electric cutout in it? Or would it be better to use one on each side of the long pipes? My mufflers are going to be quiet, and the cutout(s) will be purely for sound.
If you want to run a single 3inch cutout, the way I would go about that is run an x pipe with the cutout in the middle of the back of it. It would be different.

I'll try to draw it in paint or something if your curious
Old 01-02-2011, 01:05 PM
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I think for now the cutouts are being put on hold. A couple vacations, the weather and some parts delays have kept progress to a minimum but im hoping that changes once I make it back home. Air ride is on my to do list, I'm just hoping a set will turn up on craigslist or something. First things first though and I still need to get this guy running and the power windows, locks, new top and etc in before spring rolls around.
Old 01-03-2011, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by chuckd71
I think for now the cutouts are being put on hold. A couple vacations, the weather and some parts delays have kept progress to a minimum but im hoping that changes once I make it back home. Air ride is on my to do list, I'm just hoping a set will turn up on craigslist or something. First things first though and I still need to get this guy running and the power windows, locks, new top and etc in before spring rolls around.
you can sometimes pick up a few parts off craigslist, but I can get a deal on new stuff. You dont have to run shockwaves from ART to do it, which can save a boatload of $$. Shockwaves are nice but i've used plenty of regular firestone/conti/air lift/slam air bags and outboard shock setups on old cars. If you really are thinking about air ride, I do that too so just holler.
Old 01-14-2011, 12:59 AM
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Someone had asked what the running total so far is. I had it all listed but all things considered it might be best not to total it up until it is complete.

Last edited by chuckd71; 02-17-2011 at 05:27 AM.
Old 01-14-2011, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by chuckd71
I put the vss adapter in yesterday, took about 10 minutes or so. While I was down there I remembered that my lock up has been controlled by a vacuum switch running off the carb, which I am not sure will still work with the new setup, or where to hook it up.
This looks like an option, but it's not cheap. Ideas? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70244
That lockup kit works great. I have used that type and the vacuum type and the speed controlled type is much much better.
Old 01-14-2011, 08:39 AM
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Nice project
Old 01-15-2011, 09:38 AM
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Looks killer so far! I'm sold on those dirty dingo sliders I'm placing my order today lol.
Old 01-16-2011, 02:09 PM
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Nice build.....


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