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LS1 and 200-4r to L92 / T56 in 71 Chevelle convertible, now Gen V LT1 / T56 swapping

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LS1 and 200-4r to L92 / T56 in 71 Chevelle convertible, now Gen V LT1 / T56 swapping

 
Old 02-08-2011, 07:53 AM
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Seeing wade70's oil pan reminded me of a pic of mine. This is the cts-v pan for those just joining us, and it hangs down a bit more than I'd like. In a perfect world it would be tucked up out of the way, although for any practical driving purposes this should be fine. At some point I think I'd like to weld a piece of metal to the frame right in front of the pan as a warning of sorts, something that would scrape to let me know the pan won't clear before I kill it and spill oil everywhere. I can only imagine how shitty using a truck pan might have been.
[IMG][/IMG]

I'd also like to toss all that 40 year old suspension crap and fancy it up a bit but that might have to wait a while.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:40 AM
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Default It'll Pan Out

Yours isn't too far down from mine. Maybe half inch. Which like you said, the truck pan would've been a "CURB FINDER" compared to both of ours. LOL

I remember when I was in high school (back when it was a SBC) I thought I would hot rod and show off in front of some girls. I hit a dip in the road and bottomed out. It ripped the drain plug off my Moroso oil pan and bled out right there in the street. Fortunately 5qts of oil and a new pan and it was back on the road. Though I was grounded severely. Could've been worse.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:16 AM
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I knocked a hole in a maxima's oil pan when I was in high school and have been a bit paranoid about doing it ever again. Fortunately it wasn't my car.
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:40 PM
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I totally understand. Before I upgraded to Eibach springs, KYB's and some poly bushings I was fearful of every bump in the road. I destroyed the bottoms of my SBC headers over the years before upgrading. Now I'm a little less concerned about the bottom of the car and more concerned about the wheels!!
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:05 PM
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yall should think of deep pan on a chevy II, it has always killed me on how much they hang down on a lot of super stockers n such.

Anyways small update, the spectra tank is in and fuel system is plumbed front to rear. vette regulator is mounted above rearend in a spot that holds all the vent lines (theres already a bracket/bolts threre to hold it, made it nice, and is still behind the rearend center section in thew case of a bottom out of suspension. Almost everything is on the car sans wiring, which i'll start on tomorrow, then its nothing but loose ends, exhaust system, and setting up the kickdown cable on the trans. Theres a lot of little things but the big part is done. Fuel system is mainly -6an summit push loc or twist tite or whatever its called, with twist tite fittings where they could be used. Other than that, the return line has -6an with fuel injection clamps.


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Old 02-11-2011, 12:15 PM
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Smallish update. Here is a shot of the BTO TV kit set up using their bracket in a way that looks correct. Compare this setup to the pic I got from BTO on page 2. On my motor putting the tv cable up top leaves it at an odd angle from both a y and z axis perspective (assuming x runs parallel to the car lengthwise).


[IMG][/IMG]


Another shot of it looking more correct, but not like BTO's pic.


[IMG][/IMG]


The starter I bought from a yard on ebay turned out to be a piece of **** so I picked up a new one from Advance and figured since I was going by anyway I might as well get my intake there. Using the coupon code "VISA" at checkout takes $50 off $150, and combined with ebates.com I saved around $120 on this stuff. I'm not an advance auto shill, it's just that these coupons they have make it almost as cheap as buying crap on ebay.


Anyway, I grabbed a Spectre cold air intake for an Escalade and we mocked it up just for ***** and grins. The wiper fluid reservoir had to be moved and the tube will have to be cut down but it should look pretty sweet. You do need to buy an extra coupler to use this the way we did, but I had one on hand.



[IMG] test by chuckd85032, on Flickr[/IMG]


And last but not least here is a shot of how the headers have tucked. No ground clearance issues to worry about here. I'm curious to see how long these things stay all pretty and black once they get hot all the time, but I'm hoping to get at least three or four years out of them. I'll let the life of the headers dictate the point at which this car gets turboed.


[IMG][/IMG]


Didn't think to take a pic but the windstar fans are more or less stuck to the radiator and other than a couple brackets and corners to trim they are a pretty solid fit for the stock radiator. I'm sure they will beat the **** out of the old flex a lite fan on the old small block.

I think Z28you said it will hit the exhaust shop tomorrow, but I'm going to be in and out of town for a couple weeks so there won't be much updating on my end. So far I think everything is coming together pretty well and nothing terribly bad has happened, though of course it might explode or catch fire upon starting but who knows.

Edit - This page shows how the belt is to wrap around everything when using the kwik bracket, we were trying different things this morning. Apparently it goes almost completely around the water pump pulley which seemed strange to me. http://www.kwikperf.com/pdf/ad1g_ins...structions.pdf
One more thing, that pulley from the 3.4L buick or whatever on the p/s pump had to be pressed on super far. It still looks like it will probably work, but it might be worth exploring other alternatives.

Last edited by chuckd71; 02-11-2011 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:23 PM
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what hoses are you using for the Grand Cherokee box to LS pump? Or are you using the Lee MFG fittings?
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:26 PM
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Jeep Grand Cherokee box and stock lines off the ls style pump.


I felt like sticking this pic on here, this is how the cold air intake will look, and the way the belt runs....

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Old 02-11-2011, 06:18 PM
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That's a sweet set up, can't wait to do mines.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by wade70ss View Post
what hoses are you using for the Grand Cherokee box to LS pump? Or are you using the Lee MFG fittings?
As I understand it he Lee fitting are only for people trying to use that archaic small block chevy stuff with the new box. You could either use them or have a shop make you some new lines but I'm not sure which would be cheaper.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:17 PM
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Default Box Blocked

Well right now I'm running the stock chevelle gear box with the LS pump. I used a LS style hose and flared the box side. It works but runs in an awkward loop up towards my cold air. Very ugly. I'd like my hoses to lay on the box then loop around and come up behind the pump like a factory Chevelle.

I've got the Cherokee box, just ordered the 3/4" 30 spline rag joint and just need hoses to put this together. I did a little research and the 1979 Chevelle (Malibu) with V6 had two P/S hose options. One with O-rings and one with flares. I'm hoping that these route the correct way and both O-ring fittings work. We'll see
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:07 PM
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I plugged away at the car today and got most wiring done, mounted the pcm in an out of the way spot, and odds and ends. The harness runs over by the fenderwell, through the fresh air blockoff plate that Stuart already had installed for his vintage air kit, and right up through the old top fresh air vent in the body under the dash. The pcm is mounted on top of the glove box, and one the dash pad is reinstalled, it will be out of sight. Theres a small fuse box that came with the harness that will be mounted in the rear of the glove box, and out of the way, making the box still usable. The relays are mounted to the firewall behind the brake booster, and fan harness runsd behind the lf fender/top of the inner fender, out of sight. Windstar fans required 2 notched cuts, one for tank clearance, one for radiator hose clearance, and I used some thick foam as small spacers on one side to keep the fan from hitting the tank and fins. The fan itself on one side does not fit in the middle of the rad completely, it is about a half inch over the tank on one side, thats why I had to space it. Not very noticable though.
Tomorrow is finish up day, and the exhaust Monday. I thoughht it was tomorrow but I want to finish things anyways. Theres actually very little to finish it up, should def be driving next week

The throttle cable that I got from stuart I'm guessing is an f body cable? I'm sure he can tell us...I had to take about 2.5 inches off the firewall side jacketing to give it extra cable to work with the truck intake, came out fine although I was worried.




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Old 02-12-2011, 04:12 AM
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Not sure if I missed it but what headers are you using.
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:36 AM
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Hooker.
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Old 02-12-2011, 05:05 AM
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Good looking swap man, i really like the options to used going into the job, especially the mounts.
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Old 02-12-2011, 05:39 AM
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Let us know how the fans act My Windstar fans are a killer when they first turn on. But after that they are great
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:36 AM
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I wonder if putting a capacitor after the relays would help. A 3 farad BOSS capacitor is only $40 or so.
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:41 PM
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I don't think it will be bad being controllled by the pcm
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:43 AM
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So it would seem that there is some sort of rod/ bearing issue going on in the motor. Kind of shitty and makes this stuff seem not so fun anymore. I do of course realize that in the grand scheme of things this is trivial nonsense, but it still sucks.
Anyway, considering what it would cost to get it fixed and in the interest of time (which I have little of, hence having James take over) it looks like I might be getting a new motor. This thing was supposed to be getting a new top and power windows in 8 days or so and James is backed up so rapid progress is the key here.
The options presented so far as I understand them are 1) buying an ls1 long block and just swapping all my goodies onto it or 2) buying a fully complete LQ4, with stuff I would be paying extra for and then having to sell.
I would like to turbo in the future but realistically considering school/etc that won't happen for almost a decade, if ever. The ls1 option in this case would not require me to buy and then sell parts I don't need, which is a plus. I'm thinking for all practical purposes if the costs are close and I'm staying n/a for quite a long time the LS1 would be the way to go as it's an easy way to drop 80 lbs or so off the front. Any comments/ suggestions? Ideally I'd grab an ls2 long block but those are $$$.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:29 AM
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What kind of rod bearing issues are you havin? I would have to imagine that throwing some new bearings in would be much cheaper and couldn't take much longer than swapping out the motor.
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