Hooker versus Edelbrock LS Conversion Header Kits Camaro
09-01-2010, 05:33 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Hooker versus Edelbrock LS Conversion Header Kits Camaro Hello all,
First off this is my first post and I must say I've REALLY gained a ton of information from this site for my FIRST LS conversion, Very helpful/friendly people here
Now... I've been searching for good pictures of both edelbrock and hooker kits installed in a first gen camaro, so far I've only seen the hooker set up, not much about the edelbrock set up. I'm debating between the Hooker LS Conversion headers/motor mount plates and the Edelbrock system. The good and bad are listed below.
Hooker:
Good - from what I read good clearance all around, move engine close to firewall, can get away with using stock oil pan.
Bad - not stainless steel, not step up tubes, ceramic coated, cost slightly more than the Edelbrock kit.
Edelbrock:
Good - good clearance with their motor mount plates, stainless steel, entire exhaust kit cost $1250.00 (if I chose to go that route).
Bad - May not work with stock oil pan, acessories may not clear, spoke with tech and they said I can use CTS V pan or Autokraft (there goes the cost savings of the edelbrock kit
Anyway, if ANYONE has any experience with either kit in their first gen camaro, please advise and SHARE PICS if possible. So far I'm leaning towards the hooker set up because I've heard a lot of good things from members here and at other sites. However, it would be great to see more pics from the edelbrock set up.
Thanks...
First off this is my first post and I must say I've REALLY gained a ton of information from this site for my FIRST LS conversion, Very helpful/friendly people here
Now... I've been searching for good pictures of both edelbrock and hooker kits installed in a first gen camaro, so far I've only seen the hooker set up, not much about the edelbrock set up. I'm debating between the Hooker LS Conversion headers/motor mount plates and the Edelbrock system. The good and bad are listed below.
Hooker:
Good - from what I read good clearance all around, move engine close to firewall, can get away with using stock oil pan.
Bad - not stainless steel, not step up tubes, ceramic coated, cost slightly more than the Edelbrock kit.
Edelbrock:
Good - good clearance with their motor mount plates, stainless steel, entire exhaust kit cost $1250.00 (if I chose to go that route).
Bad - May not work with stock oil pan, acessories may not clear, spoke with tech and they said I can use CTS V pan or Autokraft (there goes the cost savings of the edelbrock kit
Anyway, if ANYONE has any experience with either kit in their first gen camaro, please advise and SHARE PICS if possible. So far I'm leaning towards the hooker set up because I've heard a lot of good things from members here and at other sites. However, it would be great to see more pics from the edelbrock set up.
Thanks...
09-01-2010, 10:02 PM
#2
Regarding the Hooker setup..the alternator on my 98 LS1 sits on the bottom/driver's side. The bottom-most screw on the alt needed to be ground somewhat to clear the frame. It was an easy adjustment.
Here's one other. I converted from the small block heater core & cover to a big block heater core & cover. The tubes from the small block cover in conjunction with the thickness of the heater hose rubber will not allow enough clearance from behind the pass head. The tubes on the BB cover exit in the middle of the cover, giving plenty of clearance.
The heater core & cover also qualify for that 20% off sale.
Here's one other. I converted from the small block heater core & cover to a big block heater core & cover. The tubes from the small block cover in conjunction with the thickness of the heater hose rubber will not allow enough clearance from behind the pass head. The tubes on the BB cover exit in the middle of the cover, giving plenty of clearance.
The heater core & cover also qualify for that 20% off sale.
09-01-2010, 11:10 PM
#3
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
gMag you are the man! Thanks for sharing more info on the Hooker set up. I'm going to definitely hit up the 20% sale before the end of the month. Thanks again. I do wish that someone who has tried the edelbrock set up would chime in here so I can make a well informed decision. Anyone???
09-02-2010, 02:01 AM
#4
Edelbrock Edelbrocks cleared with no mods whatsoever. Fit like a glove..... one from the top one from the bottom. I have plenty of clearance on both sides. My car is lowered so they do scrape on speed humps if going too fast. For the price you really can't beat it. I used the plates and headers. I also have a CTS-V pan. They are reasonable like 250 on ebay I got mine for $150?
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09-03-2010, 05:28 PM
#9
The Hooker bungs are welded into a separate collector which runs behind each header. The collectors come with O2 wire extenders to accommodate the length.
O2 distance from the heat source has been noted as a possible cause of erroneous O2 operation in closed loop. I haven't fired my engine up yet, so I can't speak from first-hand experience. Maybe someone who has already run Hookers can chime in......
If the Edelbrocks have O2 bungs welded into the collector itself, or into one of the exhaust tubes, the O2's might operate more dependably.
Mister D...thanks for reaquanting me with my original thoughts. Time goes by and I've forgotten some of the finer points to the debate!
O2 distance from the heat source has been noted as a possible cause of erroneous O2 operation in closed loop. I haven't fired my engine up yet, so I can't speak from first-hand experience. Maybe someone who has already run Hookers can chime in......
If the Edelbrocks have O2 bungs welded into the collector itself, or into one of the exhaust tubes, the O2's might operate more dependably.
Mister D...thanks for reaquanting me with my original thoughts. Time goes by and I've forgotten some of the finer points to the debate!
09-03-2010, 07:26 PM
#11
Regarding the Hooker setup..the alternator on my 98 LS1 sits on the bottom/driver's side. The bottom-most screw on the alt needed to be ground somewhat to clear the frame. It was an easy adjustment.
Here's one other. I converted from the small block heater core & cover to a big block heater core & cover. The tubes from the small block cover in conjunction with the thickness of the heater hose rubber will not allow enough clearance from behind the pass head. The tubes on the BB cover exit in the middle of the cover, giving plenty of clearance.
The heater core & cover also qualify for that 20% off sale.
Here's one other. I converted from the small block heater core & cover to a big block heater core & cover. The tubes from the small block cover in conjunction with the thickness of the heater hose rubber will not allow enough clearance from behind the pass head. The tubes on the BB cover exit in the middle of the cover, giving plenty of clearance.
The heater core & cover also qualify for that 20% off sale.
09-03-2010, 08:58 PM
#13
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Great information here guys, thanks for chiming in. J-007 do you have any pics you can share of the clearance in the engine bay and below the car, i.e. scraping? Thanks again! It's really good to clarify any differences before settling on one or the other, especially in today's economy! Thanks again!
09-03-2010, 09:00 PM
#14
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
The Hooker bungs are welded into a separate collector which runs behind each header. The collectors come with O2 wire extenders to accommodate the length.
O2 distance from the heat source has been noted as a possible cause of erroneous O2 operation in closed loop. I haven't fired my engine up yet, so I can't speak from first-hand experience. Maybe someone who has already run Hookers can chime in......
If the Edelbrocks have O2 bungs welded into the collector itself, or into one of the exhaust tubes, the O2's might operate more dependably.
Mister D...thanks for reaquanting me with my original thoughts. Time goes by and I've forgotten some of the finer points to the debate!
O2 distance from the heat source has been noted as a possible cause of erroneous O2 operation in closed loop. I haven't fired my engine up yet, so I can't speak from first-hand experience. Maybe someone who has already run Hookers can chime in......
If the Edelbrocks have O2 bungs welded into the collector itself, or into one of the exhaust tubes, the O2's might operate more dependably.
Mister D...thanks for reaquanting me with my original thoughts. Time goes by and I've forgotten some of the finer points to the debate!
Your help with my project has been wonderful! The tips and details I have gathered from this website is amazing! Great to hear about everyone's experiences. One day I'll be sharing mine
09-05-2010, 06:21 AM
#15
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In my 69 nova the hooker mounts hit my heater box. I redrilled the holes to make it fit like other mounts. Edelbrock headers recommend to installed the bungs 3 inches after the the collector.. Also on my eddy headers I had to grind a little off the control arm because it was hitting. Thats probally because i didn't use the eddy mounts though..
09-05-2010, 01:45 PM
#16
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I would not recommend Hooker mounts. I had some and they set the motor on the freaking firewall. No room whatsoever for anything. I settled with the Carshop 1" setback plates and can fit a finger or two in between heads and firewall. I'm running Dynatech headers and had to modify my plug wires for #5 and #7 cylinder because of the crossover tube. No biggie, just buy some 115 or 120 degree boot ends and take your stock ones off and replace with these.
09-07-2010, 10:12 AM
#17
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Just set a LS1 on Edelbrock plates in my 67 and it cleared the stock steering easily with a F-body pan. Haven't tried to put the Edelbrock headers on yet, but don't expect any problems. Make sure you put the plates on so that the mounts are forward and with 2 bolt holes up just as on an old school small block. I put the plates on the wrong side the first time (mounts with 1 hole up) and the motor wouldn't sit down on the mount towers.
09-07-2010, 12:09 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Just set a LS1 on Edelbrock plates in my 67 and it cleared the stock steering easily with a F-body pan. Haven't tried to put the Edelbrock headers on yet, but don't expect any problems. Make sure you put the plates on so that the mounts are forward and with 2 bolt holes up just as on an old school small block. I put the plates on the wrong side the first time (mounts with 1 hole up) and the motor wouldn't sit down on the mount towers.