'70 Nova LY6/TH400 6.0VVT
10-20-2018, 08:41 PM
#1621
69 Ghost first let me apologize for being dismissive. I appreciate the time you took to share your thoughts and experience. I do in fact suffer from many of the common symptoms and bad behaviors of an engineer. One I try to avoid is discounting common sense or practical experience. Above when I said I respectfully disagree, I was referring to the POA and TXV fighting one another. I failed to acknowledge or respond to the remainder of your points.
I'm sure you are right that I could have a better system by using a combination of modern components. I share your feeling that the OE stuff is generally high quality and I would prefer to have a 100% modern system but I also really appreciate the design of the original system.
I don't have the time at the moment to give your thoughtful post the entirety of response it deserves. I do hope to shake hands some time and hear about your experience some day though. Thanks for posting.
I'm sure you are right that I could have a better system by using a combination of modern components. I share your feeling that the OE stuff is generally high quality and I would prefer to have a 100% modern system but I also really appreciate the design of the original system.
I don't have the time at the moment to give your thoughtful post the entirety of response it deserves. I do hope to shake hands some time and hear about your experience some day though. Thanks for posting.
10-21-2018, 04:35 PM
#1622
TECH Enthusiast
Clint,
My intention was not to be harsh nor wish any ill feelings. Yes you are right about me not being 100% correct on the POA. When you mentioned TXV valve I automatically assumed that it was a more modern valve and not an original. My assumption was based on an original not having quite the same settings as a newer TXV. It appears that I am right because the TXV kits come with an adjustable cycling switch. Now a little bit on common sense. Businesses are there to make money and they may not provide the best solution sometimes it is the simplest. Case in point your POA or VIR eliminator kit. They are $120 on average. What happens if after you are done and your evaporator leaks or it goes out say after a year? That replacement evaporator for any POA or VIR system is $300. Now listen to what I recommended because this works for any first gen Camaro and Novas from 68-79. The 77-79 Nova evaporators bolt in to factory ac units without any modification and convert it to an orifice tube. You can get a brand new one for $60-80. You have just eliminated the POA, TXV, ambient sensor, and replaced an old evaporator. If you want electric fan control from the pcm all newer systems use a pressure sensor. You can buy a fitting an put it in the high pressure line or you can get a S10 hardline with it already in there for about $25. Do you see where I am going with this?
One last note sorry for a late response here. I am not on very often but I have followed your thread from the beginning. Sometimes it's like yea been there done that sometimes I cringe at what you are doing. Like I said I have been down your path already and I hate to see people make the same mistakes that I did. The offer still stands you are welcome to stop by anytime and compare notes. Who knows you might even find some inspiration for your followup project once your AC is done. I think for a 20 mile drive it would be very beneficial to you regardless which direction you take from here.
My intention was not to be harsh nor wish any ill feelings. Yes you are right about me not being 100% correct on the POA. When you mentioned TXV valve I automatically assumed that it was a more modern valve and not an original. My assumption was based on an original not having quite the same settings as a newer TXV. It appears that I am right because the TXV kits come with an adjustable cycling switch. Now a little bit on common sense. Businesses are there to make money and they may not provide the best solution sometimes it is the simplest. Case in point your POA or VIR eliminator kit. They are $120 on average. What happens if after you are done and your evaporator leaks or it goes out say after a year? That replacement evaporator for any POA or VIR system is $300. Now listen to what I recommended because this works for any first gen Camaro and Novas from 68-79. The 77-79 Nova evaporators bolt in to factory ac units without any modification and convert it to an orifice tube. You can get a brand new one for $60-80. You have just eliminated the POA, TXV, ambient sensor, and replaced an old evaporator. If you want electric fan control from the pcm all newer systems use a pressure sensor. You can buy a fitting an put it in the high pressure line or you can get a S10 hardline with it already in there for about $25. Do you see where I am going with this?
One last note sorry for a late response here. I am not on very often but I have followed your thread from the beginning. Sometimes it's like yea been there done that sometimes I cringe at what you are doing. Like I said I have been down your path already and I hate to see people make the same mistakes that I did. The offer still stands you are welcome to stop by anytime and compare notes. Who knows you might even find some inspiration for your followup project once your AC is done. I think for a 20 mile drive it would be very beneficial to you regardless which direction you take from here.
10-22-2018, 10:51 AM
#1623
Just to clarify, the TXV I'm using is a new one that is calibrated for R134a. With an R12-calibrated TXV, the superheat setting would be off and it could end up slugging the compressor. I think some TXV "update" or "R134a conversion" kits might come with a high-side binary safety switch, but this is not intended to cycle the compressor during normal operation - it's just a safety switch to protect the system and compressor in the event of a fault. They interrupt the compressor for excessively low pressure (undercharge) or excessively high pressure (clogged/stuck POA/TXV, overcharge, etc). I have installed one of these in my system inline with the clutch. The only kits I'm aware of that include a cycling switch are the POA-eliminators which are just a drop-in manifold with a low side pressure switch to cycle the compressor off at low suction pressures.
A cycling switch is not used/needed in a POA system, not in the factory original system nor in my system. The only compressor-interrupt switches in the factory POA systems were an ambient temperature switch and, on some systems, a superheat or thermal protection switch on the compressor. The ambient temperature switch just prevents operation at freezing ambient temperatures. The superheat or thermal protection switch protects the compressor in the event of a fault such as loss of charge which would lead to compressor damage due to loss of oil circulation. For what it's worth, my original 1970 Nova Frigidaire system did not have a superheat or thermal switch on the compressor - I think these came about in later system designs when someone realized you shouldn't have to burn up a compressor every time a hose leaked or a TXV got clogged.
Neither the ambient switch nor a superheat/thermal switch would cycle the clutch on and off during normal operation of this type of system. This system runs on a fixed displacement compressor with the compressor running at all times the AC system is on, unless there is a fault. During low loads, the system continues to circulate oil through the POA oil bypass so the compressor can continue to run without damage. I base this claim on the wiring diagrams and system operation description from the original 1970 factory service manual as well what I have read about these systems on autoacforum and other sources.
I give the above information to explain my understanding of how this system works and some important considerations for making it work with R134a without causing damage or underperformance. It's not to discount your suggestions on using a good combination of OE parts to get a cycling, orifice system up an running using more readily available components. In response to that I'll offer the following statement: sounds like a perfectly good idea supported by valid reasons both technical and practical. It's not the route I'm going.
I'll be happy to meet up and talk about what trials and tribulations you've already been through. It might help both of us to understand what happened in your prior experience. I'll PM you when I have some availability.
A cycling switch is not used/needed in a POA system, not in the factory original system nor in my system. The only compressor-interrupt switches in the factory POA systems were an ambient temperature switch and, on some systems, a superheat or thermal protection switch on the compressor. The ambient temperature switch just prevents operation at freezing ambient temperatures. The superheat or thermal protection switch protects the compressor in the event of a fault such as loss of charge which would lead to compressor damage due to loss of oil circulation. For what it's worth, my original 1970 Nova Frigidaire system did not have a superheat or thermal switch on the compressor - I think these came about in later system designs when someone realized you shouldn't have to burn up a compressor every time a hose leaked or a TXV got clogged.
Neither the ambient switch nor a superheat/thermal switch would cycle the clutch on and off during normal operation of this type of system. This system runs on a fixed displacement compressor with the compressor running at all times the AC system is on, unless there is a fault. During low loads, the system continues to circulate oil through the POA oil bypass so the compressor can continue to run without damage. I base this claim on the wiring diagrams and system operation description from the original 1970 factory service manual as well what I have read about these systems on autoacforum and other sources.
I give the above information to explain my understanding of how this system works and some important considerations for making it work with R134a without causing damage or underperformance. It's not to discount your suggestions on using a good combination of OE parts to get a cycling, orifice system up an running using more readily available components. In response to that I'll offer the following statement: sounds like a perfectly good idea supported by valid reasons both technical and practical. It's not the route I'm going.
I'll be happy to meet up and talk about what trials and tribulations you've already been through. It might help both of us to understand what happened in your prior experience. I'll PM you when I have some availability.
10-23-2018, 06:52 AM
#1624
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Clint, not sure if you are overly concerned with the RPM cutoff, but I was thinking last night about the possibility of using a nitrous RPM window switch? I think you would need to use it in conjunction with a relay that would make it work the opposite way that a nitrous window switch works, but that might be a fairly easy fail safe.
10-25-2018, 10:10 AM
#1626
TECH Enthusiast
Your ambient temp switch is your cycling switch. It just uses your evap temp to cycle the compressor. Just because it isn't a 'pressure' switch does not mean it is not a cycling switch. As stated before look at the vintage air or any other TXV setup. You will see some sort of temp probe. You will also see the wiring hooked into this. The stock POA wiring shows the compressor hooked to the temp switch directly if you don't think it's used to cycle the compressor why is it there? Keep in mind the ac control is on the 'low' side. The binary is also a pressure switch but used more to keep the compressor from burning up when pressures get to high it shuts off. If you have a fixed compressor and you are running it say to just defrost when it's 60 degrees out the load is not there. If you run fixed compressor the high pressure will continue to build until something happens. Again a variable handles this by varying the stroke to stay in line with the load. It can go down to about 10% of the full stroke. That's why it doesn't need to cycle.
Here's a simple question. Ask anybody that has a Vintage air system. They have fixed compressors. Do they cycle?
Here's a simple question. Ask anybody that has a Vintage air system. They have fixed compressors. Do they cycle?
Last edited by 69 Ghost; 10-25-2018 at 10:17 AM.
10-25-2018, 06:26 PM
#1627
It is true that modern systems also employ an ambient sensor but it is not a simple on/off switch. It tells the control system what the ambient temp is so the cycling points can be adjusted to maximize cooling without freezing the evaporator. It can also be used to prevent the system from operating below freezing temps.
eep in mind the ac control is on the 'low' side. The binary is also a pressure switch but used more to keep the compressor from burning up when pressures get to high it shuts off. If you have a fixed compressor and you are running it say to just defrost when it's 60 degrees out the load is not there. If you run fixed compressor the high pressure will continue to build until something happens.
If you don't belive me try running your system at a low blower speed and watch your high side pressure drop. Or run it early in the morning when it's cold. You are simulating a lower load on the system. You can even bypass your cycling switch and watch that high side pressure drop but you'll eventually freeze up the evaporator. I won't because I have a POA valve keeping the EVAP pressure from going below freezing pressures.
Here's a simple question. Ask anybody that has a Vintage air system. They have fixed compressors. Do they cycle?
With regards to variable compressors if you've studied refrigeration you might have found the flow rate is not that big of an in influence on refrigeration performance. That's why you can have such a wide range of compressor speeds (idle to redline can be a 6x) and still have about the same capacity. At higher rates, you do put a marginal increase of work in and also increase noise, so using a variable compressor allows you to drop the flow rate to improve efficiency and also drop noise. Those are the reasons we have variable compressors - not because they are a required system control.
10-30-2018, 06:21 PM
#1628
Last week I had a few parts powder coated. I went with textured black on the air intake tubes and radiator hold down and satin black on the hood latch. Those parts have been bugging me for a long time. Really happy with how they cleaned up!
10-30-2018, 06:42 PM
#1631
TECH Senior Member
Wow Clint, that is CLEEEEN! Nice work!
10-31-2018, 11:19 PM
#1632
I didn't snap photos of the wiring but I got that done too. I was faithful to the wiring diagram in my previous post. To test, I bypassed the safety switch and confirmed the clutch and high speed fan were triggered when the AC was turned on. Everything was working properly so I headed to a buddy's shop to charge the system.
My buddy runs a mobile refrigeration business and he kindly offered to lend his tools, time, and expertise to help charge my system. He has not worked with a POA system before so this was a little new to him. We started out by vacuuming the system down for about 45mins. His pump seemed to get us around 28 inHg.
Before I came, I had a plan for determining charge amount. I wanted to start by adding a low charge (around 2lb), then add 0.5oz increments of refrigerant while monitoring the high side pressure. I was going to look for the plateau where adding refrigerant did not noticeably affect the high side pressure. This would indicate the receiver was starting to fill with liquid. Then when the pressure began to rise again / spike, this would indicate the receiver was full of liquid and the bottom of condenser was also beginning to fill. Thereabouts would be my stopping point.
We started by adding the initial 2lb charge amount. The compressor and hi engine fan turned on as expected and we gave the system some time to settle. During this time the engine was idling, the blower was on high, and the compressor was running continuously. The blower was getting outside air instead of recirculating, because the factory system relies on vacuum controls and I don't have the vacuum hooked up yet.
As we charged, I noticed frost forming after the POA valve. This is normal behavior when there is a lot of suction from the compressor such as during low loads or low charge levels. The pressure drop through the POA valve makes it act like a second expansion valve and you get additional cooling downstream. Here’s a photo showing the frostline where the pressure drops after the POA.
At this point we measured the air going into the cowl where the blower was pulling from. It was over 107F due to engine wash. Then we measured inside the car and found 52.2F coming out of the center vents – not too shabby! Pressures were 27psi in the evaporator (where I set the POA valve!) and 145psi on the high side. Ambient was about 75F. The system was working and considering the cowl temperatures, I’d say it was working very well! All values measured at idle, blower high, outside air (non-recirc), engine fan hi, doors open, hood up.
If we had proceeded with the original plan, we would have added 0.5oz and continued to monitor pressures to see how things changed. But from here forward things went sideways. Instead of incrementing in 0.5oz, we added a whopping 0.55lb. Pressures went up to 38psi in the evaporator and 250psi on the high side. Yet somehow vent temperatures only went up slightly to 53.6F. Maybe I misrecorded that value because I would have expected higher.
With the high 250psi high-side pressure and no regulation from the POA valve, we thought we may have overcharged the system. So we began recovering charge in unknown amounts. Eventually we got the system back down to a steady 32psi in the evaporator, 165 on the high side, and 59F coming out of the center vents with cowl temperatures still over 100F. Unfortunately I was out of time and I needed to head home.
Where does this leave me? I have a questionable/unknown charge in the system now, but it does work. I think I’d like to get the recirc ducting working, evacuate the system, and start over with my original plan to determine charge amount.
I did take a video last night just starting the car in the garage. The car was idling, hood down, high blower, outside air, ambient just over 70F. I got a frigid 40F from the center vent! I’m most certainly happy with that! Here’s a video showing how the outlet temp came down when I turned on the AC.
My buddy runs a mobile refrigeration business and he kindly offered to lend his tools, time, and expertise to help charge my system. He has not worked with a POA system before so this was a little new to him. We started out by vacuuming the system down for about 45mins. His pump seemed to get us around 28 inHg.
Before I came, I had a plan for determining charge amount. I wanted to start by adding a low charge (around 2lb), then add 0.5oz increments of refrigerant while monitoring the high side pressure. I was going to look for the plateau where adding refrigerant did not noticeably affect the high side pressure. This would indicate the receiver was starting to fill with liquid. Then when the pressure began to rise again / spike, this would indicate the receiver was full of liquid and the bottom of condenser was also beginning to fill. Thereabouts would be my stopping point.
We started by adding the initial 2lb charge amount. The compressor and hi engine fan turned on as expected and we gave the system some time to settle. During this time the engine was idling, the blower was on high, and the compressor was running continuously. The blower was getting outside air instead of recirculating, because the factory system relies on vacuum controls and I don't have the vacuum hooked up yet.
As we charged, I noticed frost forming after the POA valve. This is normal behavior when there is a lot of suction from the compressor such as during low loads or low charge levels. The pressure drop through the POA valve makes it act like a second expansion valve and you get additional cooling downstream. Here’s a photo showing the frostline where the pressure drops after the POA.
At this point we measured the air going into the cowl where the blower was pulling from. It was over 107F due to engine wash. Then we measured inside the car and found 52.2F coming out of the center vents – not too shabby! Pressures were 27psi in the evaporator (where I set the POA valve!) and 145psi on the high side. Ambient was about 75F. The system was working and considering the cowl temperatures, I’d say it was working very well! All values measured at idle, blower high, outside air (non-recirc), engine fan hi, doors open, hood up.
If we had proceeded with the original plan, we would have added 0.5oz and continued to monitor pressures to see how things changed. But from here forward things went sideways. Instead of incrementing in 0.5oz, we added a whopping 0.55lb. Pressures went up to 38psi in the evaporator and 250psi on the high side. Yet somehow vent temperatures only went up slightly to 53.6F. Maybe I misrecorded that value because I would have expected higher.
With the high 250psi high-side pressure and no regulation from the POA valve, we thought we may have overcharged the system. So we began recovering charge in unknown amounts. Eventually we got the system back down to a steady 32psi in the evaporator, 165 on the high side, and 59F coming out of the center vents with cowl temperatures still over 100F. Unfortunately I was out of time and I needed to head home.
Where does this leave me? I have a questionable/unknown charge in the system now, but it does work. I think I’d like to get the recirc ducting working, evacuate the system, and start over with my original plan to determine charge amount.
I did take a video last night just starting the car in the garage. The car was idling, hood down, high blower, outside air, ambient just over 70F. I got a frigid 40F from the center vent! I’m most certainly happy with that! Here’s a video showing how the outlet temp came down when I turned on the AC.
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 11-01-2018 at 02:35 PM.
11-01-2018, 02:25 PM
#1633
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Nice work Clint! Did you end up doing the vacuum and charge yourself? I see where the parts stores rent the stuff to do that now. I was thinking about giving it a shot on my pickup truck.
11-29-2018, 12:07 PM
#1635
Earlier this month I took the Nova to work.
There's something magical about the reverberation of a V8 idling into a parking structure. It brought back memories from taking this car to my high school prom and setting off all the fast & furious kid's car alarms as I rolled in. Driving this car to work makes my day so much better. It gives me something to look forward to at lunch and again at the end of the day. And I can't tell you how happy I am with the decisions & compromises I've made to keep this car comfortable and reliable as a driver; no big crazy cam, no overly stiff suspension, investment in safety and visibility, etc. The car continues to provide much needed therapy now two years since getting the LS swap running.
On that particular day, I took the Nova out for lunch and had my first opportunity to see how the AC was working. Weather reports said it was in the low 80s. Cruising around I was getting vent temps around 85F (ac off, outside air, hi blower). When I stopped, that would climb to around 90F. While stopped, a turned on the AC to see how quickly the vent temps would drop and to what level. Here is a video.
In the course of 30sec the outlet temps went from 90F down to 50F and stayed around there. This with AC on, outside air, and hi blower. 50F is higher than I'd like to see, but I think the lack of recirc is a big factor when pulling 90F air from outside. Here is what happened after driving the car:
It was hard for me to see while driving, but I think the outlet was around 42F. I don't know if most of that drop was due to lower inlet and under hood temperatures or more air flow across the condenser; I suspect the former. Later on the way home, with ambient in the high 70s, I saw 38-40F from the vents.
While I'm happy so far with the performance, I know I'm leaving a lot on the table using outside air. The factory system uses a set of vacuum operated flaps to direct blower air either from the cowl (current default) or from the inside passenger kick panel, but I haven't had the vacuum connected. So after that run I took the time to hook it up. I connected the vacuum supply with a reducing tee on at the back of the manifold, sharing the port with the transmission vacuum modulator. I also installed a heater bypass valve on the passenger fender.
The operation of this system is dictated by a vacuum control valve attached to left-most AC control lever in the cabin. In the "Max AC" position, vacuum should be supplied to the heater core valve to bypass flow to the heater and the duct flaps should actuate to recirculate air from the cabin. After I got the system connected, I had my 5yo daughter keep an eye on the recirculation flap in the passenger kick panel to see if it was operating correctly. What I expected was for the flap to open with the control lever in the "Max AC position" and remain closed otherwise. Here is a video of our test:
We found the recirculation mode was happening with control lever in the "Vent" position and not in "Max AC" or other positions. I'll have to investigate why this is happening. This probably will mean pulling the controls apart to test the vacuum control valve. I am curious if there is an adjustment or mounting issue that could cause this.
There's something magical about the reverberation of a V8 idling into a parking structure. It brought back memories from taking this car to my high school prom and setting off all the fast & furious kid's car alarms as I rolled in. Driving this car to work makes my day so much better. It gives me something to look forward to at lunch and again at the end of the day. And I can't tell you how happy I am with the decisions & compromises I've made to keep this car comfortable and reliable as a driver; no big crazy cam, no overly stiff suspension, investment in safety and visibility, etc. The car continues to provide much needed therapy now two years since getting the LS swap running.
On that particular day, I took the Nova out for lunch and had my first opportunity to see how the AC was working. Weather reports said it was in the low 80s. Cruising around I was getting vent temps around 85F (ac off, outside air, hi blower). When I stopped, that would climb to around 90F. While stopped, a turned on the AC to see how quickly the vent temps would drop and to what level. Here is a video.
In the course of 30sec the outlet temps went from 90F down to 50F and stayed around there. This with AC on, outside air, and hi blower. 50F is higher than I'd like to see, but I think the lack of recirc is a big factor when pulling 90F air from outside. Here is what happened after driving the car:
It was hard for me to see while driving, but I think the outlet was around 42F. I don't know if most of that drop was due to lower inlet and under hood temperatures or more air flow across the condenser; I suspect the former. Later on the way home, with ambient in the high 70s, I saw 38-40F from the vents.
While I'm happy so far with the performance, I know I'm leaving a lot on the table using outside air. The factory system uses a set of vacuum operated flaps to direct blower air either from the cowl (current default) or from the inside passenger kick panel, but I haven't had the vacuum connected. So after that run I took the time to hook it up. I connected the vacuum supply with a reducing tee on at the back of the manifold, sharing the port with the transmission vacuum modulator. I also installed a heater bypass valve on the passenger fender.
The operation of this system is dictated by a vacuum control valve attached to left-most AC control lever in the cabin. In the "Max AC" position, vacuum should be supplied to the heater core valve to bypass flow to the heater and the duct flaps should actuate to recirculate air from the cabin. After I got the system connected, I had my 5yo daughter keep an eye on the recirculation flap in the passenger kick panel to see if it was operating correctly. What I expected was for the flap to open with the control lever in the "Max AC position" and remain closed otherwise. Here is a video of our test:
We found the recirculation mode was happening with control lever in the "Vent" position and not in "Max AC" or other positions. I'll have to investigate why this is happening. This probably will mean pulling the controls apart to test the vacuum control valve. I am curious if there is an adjustment or mounting issue that could cause this.
12-17-2018, 10:58 AM
#1636
There's this thing that's been bugging me for a while...
My Walbro 255 has been getting noisier and noisier over the 2 years its been in service. It started as a reasonable wur but over time grew to a screaming whine. The pump is in a Tanks Inc PA-4 hanger/tray setup, which I modified to fit the original tank.
I decided to try a Deatschwerks DW200 (which flows 255lph) after seeing a few comparison videos of the noise on YouTube, including one from Project GatTagO. I bought P/N 9-201-1000 which came with a universal inlet screen. Unfortunately the orientation of the screen did not work out for the location of my pass-through fitting on the hanger; the screen would need to be rotated 180 degrees.
After searching unsuccessfully for screens from Deatschewerks, I decided to give my local auto parts store a shot. I started by searching their online catalog for "fuel pump screen", sorted through the photos, and went to the store armed with a few candidate part numbers. Luckily I found one with suitable dimensions and 180 degree orientation that was perfect for this: Precision Fuel Pumps S13010.
With the screen on, it was obvious the pump was not going to fit between the tray and the pass-through fitting on top of the PA-4 hanger.
So next I cut the fitting a bit shorter and threw it in my Eastwood tube flaring tool to put a new bulge into it.
Problem solved!
The last step was to crimp new ends on the wire harness that came with the DW200 pump. This little harness uses absolutely puny wires. I think they are 14awg. I crimped on some F-style ring terminals and soldered them as insurance.
Here's the finished module with the new pump, ready for reinstall.
And here's a video of the results:
I'm happy to be rid of that embarrassing whine! Now back to driving the wheels off...
My Walbro 255 has been getting noisier and noisier over the 2 years its been in service. It started as a reasonable wur but over time grew to a screaming whine. The pump is in a Tanks Inc PA-4 hanger/tray setup, which I modified to fit the original tank.
I decided to try a Deatschwerks DW200 (which flows 255lph) after seeing a few comparison videos of the noise on YouTube, including one from Project GatTagO. I bought P/N 9-201-1000 which came with a universal inlet screen. Unfortunately the orientation of the screen did not work out for the location of my pass-through fitting on the hanger; the screen would need to be rotated 180 degrees.
After searching unsuccessfully for screens from Deatschewerks, I decided to give my local auto parts store a shot. I started by searching their online catalog for "fuel pump screen", sorted through the photos, and went to the store armed with a few candidate part numbers. Luckily I found one with suitable dimensions and 180 degree orientation that was perfect for this: Precision Fuel Pumps S13010.
With the screen on, it was obvious the pump was not going to fit between the tray and the pass-through fitting on top of the PA-4 hanger.
So next I cut the fitting a bit shorter and threw it in my Eastwood tube flaring tool to put a new bulge into it.
Problem solved!
The last step was to crimp new ends on the wire harness that came with the DW200 pump. This little harness uses absolutely puny wires. I think they are 14awg. I crimped on some F-style ring terminals and soldered them as insurance.
Here's the finished module with the new pump, ready for reinstall.
And here's a video of the results:
I'm happy to be rid of that embarrassing whine! Now back to driving the wheels off...
12-17-2018, 11:57 AM
#1638
TECH Senior Member
So it's no longer a burgundy whine maker..... now it's just …… burgundy..... lol
