I want a build thread too....'63 Chevy II Wagon.
01-20-2011, 09:46 AM
#62
Few things missing...
The rear springs and air shocks were sold. The CBR leaf springs (same company that makes the front rack/qa1 conversion) will be going in once it's warmer along with a set of Bilsteins. I'd really like to pull the rearend, have the housing cleaned/blasted/painted, install a posi with 3.55s, and do the rear disc conversion, but that will be next fall or winter.
The tank was also sold and a reproduction will be purchased to have an f-body sender assy adapted to it (current plan but that may change...). The nice thing about the wagons is the amount of space above the tank for a sender to fit...the structure the tank sits on is about 5" tall. No cutting into the trunk floor like I've seen with other models..which is quite hokey.
And yes, that is a nice jack.
The rear springs and air shocks were sold. The CBR leaf springs (same company that makes the front rack/qa1 conversion) will be going in once it's warmer along with a set of Bilsteins. I'd really like to pull the rearend, have the housing cleaned/blasted/painted, install a posi with 3.55s, and do the rear disc conversion, but that will be next fall or winter.
The tank was also sold and a reproduction will be purchased to have an f-body sender assy adapted to it (current plan but that may change...). The nice thing about the wagons is the amount of space above the tank for a sender to fit...the structure the tank sits on is about 5" tall. No cutting into the trunk floor like I've seen with other models..which is quite hokey.
And yes, that is a nice jack.
01-20-2011, 09:46 AM
#63
The radiator showed up last week. After looking at what would fit and what would be needed to make a fan shroud and buy fans, I decided on the Entropy that's set up for an LS1 swap. The mounts are very nice and bolt to the stock locations, but needed a little modification to fit the correct width. The inlet and outlet is the same size as the inlet/outlet on the engine and the radiator has the hookup for the steam tube. There isn't much room between the water pump and the fans but it all fits. The 98-02 f-body lower radiator hose looks like it will fit...I have an upper hose that looks like it will fit but I haven't had time to get the radiator fully bolted in and the hoses fit.
02-18-2011, 08:25 AM
#65
After some small adjustments to the radiator mounts, the radiator is now in where it's going to be with about 1/2" to spare between the waterpump and the fan shrouds.
The upper and lower hoses are the same part number...the only issue is that the outlet of the WP is 1 1/4 and the inlet is 1 1/2. I used some goodyear radiator hose reducer sleeves on the upper hose and we'll see how well they work. The AN hookup under the upper hose is for the steam vent.
Next, the cooler lines will get spliced behind the balancer and re-routed to the driver's side of the radiator...and I'm not sure how the intake tube is going to end up since it's a really tight fit between the radiator and TB. To be continued...
The upper and lower hoses are the same part number...the only issue is that the outlet of the WP is 1 1/4 and the inlet is 1 1/2. I used some goodyear radiator hose reducer sleeves on the upper hose and we'll see how well they work. The AN hookup under the upper hose is for the steam vent.
Next, the cooler lines will get spliced behind the balancer and re-routed to the driver's side of the radiator...and I'm not sure how the intake tube is going to end up since it's a really tight fit between the radiator and TB. To be continued...
02-22-2011, 01:48 PM
#67
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Very nice choice in radiator. I have one on the way for our Wagon/LS conversion also.
Have you decided where you will put the ecm? If it will be in side the cockpit what are your thoughts on running the wiring into the fire wall?
Have you decided where you will put the ecm? If it will be in side the cockpit what are your thoughts on running the wiring into the fire wall?
02-23-2011, 03:01 PM
#68
I'm trying to find an OEM type firewall grommet that has an extended boot on it which gets taped to the wiring like the factory does before the sheathing goes on. I'd like to run the wires through the firewall right behind the intake about where the recess is stamped for the distributor. It just depends how it looks inside the car too....again, havent had time to look into it that far
03-12-2011, 09:35 AM
#71
Not much new...been planning the fuel system and ordering fittings, exhaust, etc.
The CBR leafs are in as well as the new fuel tank. Im looking forward to getting the rearend out again to have the case cleaned and repainted and then have a set of 3.36 gears and an Eaton put in. Money doesnt allow for that to happen just yet
...that will be a summer project.
The CBR leafs are in as well as the new fuel tank. Im looking forward to getting the rearend out again to have the case cleaned and repainted and then have a set of 3.36 gears and an Eaton put in. Money doesnt allow for that to happen just yet
...that will be a summer project.
03-18-2011, 12:49 PM
#73
Here's a few pics of the fuel sender I'll be adapting and some machining done this week...
Drawing up in MasterCam...
About to slice and dice...
All cut out and shown with the GM tank gasket which will be pressed into the groove...
This will be the flange for the sender. Also shown is the quick-serts that will get pressed into the flange to make the threads for the retaining plate.
Drawing up in MasterCam...
About to slice and dice...
All cut out and shown with the GM tank gasket which will be pressed into the groove...
This will be the flange for the sender. Also shown is the quick-serts that will get pressed into the flange to make the threads for the retaining plate.
03-18-2011, 01:00 PM
#74
03-18-2011, 01:09 PM
#75
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Did you think no one would ask about the pump situation?? Is this for a stock tank or a fabricated one? I actually tried to call and place an order today for a complete set up....now I see this!
04-15-2011, 03:10 PM
#78
Ok...after much trial and error and searching for parts, I've bent up some new actuator lines for the rack that clear the mounts. I've found that 12mm x 1.25 tube nuts for the o-ring end are harder to find than I oringinally thought (12mm x 1 seems to be what everyone has), as well as the steel 45° tube nuts...I find lots of brass
So I had to cut the original lines to take the 45° tube nuts off. I used some bulk 1/4" non-flared tube to plan it out...after going through about 10 feet of it I decided to just go for it.
Bending lines like this is more difficult than it looks, especially the 135° bend at the o-ring tube nut. I used a 1/4" bending pliers which really works good if you dont mind some sore thumbs
So...Im thinking I will use the other two flared tubes I bought to fine tune them. Id like the longer line to be down closer to the shorter line. I didnt have them go up over the top of the rack for a few reasons...1) the lack of space between the fittings and the crossmember to be able to make them turn upwards, 2) my pressure and return lines go over the top of the valvebody and these would get in the way, 3) this seemed to be the simplest route with the fewest bends. I also wanted to keep them up near the crossmember instead of the longer line being bent to follow right under the shorter line which would look good but require more planning so they line up right.
Next I'll be putting the crossmember back in with the press and return lines and see how it all looks...
So I had to cut the original lines to take the 45° tube nuts off. I used some bulk 1/4" non-flared tube to plan it out...after going through about 10 feet of it I decided to just go for it.
Bending lines like this is more difficult than it looks, especially the 135° bend at the o-ring tube nut. I used a 1/4" bending pliers which really works good if you dont mind some sore thumbs
So...Im thinking I will use the other two flared tubes I bought to fine tune them. Id like the longer line to be down closer to the shorter line. I didnt have them go up over the top of the rack for a few reasons...1) the lack of space between the fittings and the crossmember to be able to make them turn upwards, 2) my pressure and return lines go over the top of the valvebody and these would get in the way, 3) this seemed to be the simplest route with the fewest bends. I also wanted to keep them up near the crossmember instead of the longer line being bent to follow right under the shorter line which would look good but require more planning so they line up right.
Next I'll be putting the crossmember back in with the press and return lines and see how it all looks...
