Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Average cost on ls conversion

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Old 10-29-2010, 11:36 AM
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we are working a budget blast 91 GT with a 5.3 and some of my old parts...

800 for the GT stang roller with 3.73
800 for the complete 5.3
400 K-member and mounts
250 in th350
200 in converter
100 for use cam 224/224

My old 243 ported head
my old RPM manifold
My old 750 Vac Holley
My old MSD BOX

Motor is in a put together...
no exhaust and manifolds yet
No fuel system yet
No auto shifter yet

figure another 1000 easy

so about 3500 to 4000 grand with a car!
Old 10-29-2010, 01:48 PM
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$6000 twin turbo 5.3 with holley hp efi

gonna try an put a naturally aspirated 6.0 in my buddy's nova for about $3k that should make 600hp
Old 10-29-2010, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jamminj007
You might want to check PTFB for all of your suspension needs. They have by far the trickiest stuff and most reasonable prices. They also do brake systems. Helpful too!

Pro-touring fbody(PTFB)
Yeah I've looked at them before and I like their products, but I really want the adjustable arms. As for chassis rigidity like sfc's and stuff I will get that from them. As a matter of fact that's where I got the steering rebuild kit, and that's where I may get the steering box that I'm going to need.
Old 10-29-2010, 06:25 PM
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Buying used parts, and waiting for good deals I got it done with a stock ls1 with stainless headers, 4l60e, np208 t-case for $1700

Again I got alot of good deals, one being selling the 440 for $2,300!!!!

Labor was free, and I was able to borrow a welder from work
Old 10-29-2010, 06:37 PM
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i am nowhere near done yet, im putting an ls based engine in a 67 firebird, so far i managed to keep my cost lower by buying a parts car then selling the parts i dont need.... so far i have managed to clear the engine and tranny doing it this way.....
Old 10-29-2010, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dville_gt
the "i might as well go all out" attitude has increased my project cost 10 fold
snowball effect got me too
Old 10-31-2010, 03:27 AM
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I don't even want to know how much I spent. Originally I was going to do the LS swap on a 75 Delta 88 Convertible. I didn't have enough resources of information on how to do it, so I changed the project. I'm doing the swap on a 71 Monte Carlo instead. I've been collecting parts since July 10. My parts are all new though. So far I have
LS3 E-Rod
4L65E trans
GM Trans Controller
BRP LS conversion kit
Ricks EFI Tank
Hotchkis TVS and upper and lower A-Arms
Wilwood Front Brakes
Edelbrock Header Back exhaust for LS
Corvette FEAD and AC Compressor relocation bracket
Classic Auto AC kit
Currie Rearend fully assembled with Wilwood Discs
Corvette FPR
Fuel Lines and Fittings
Flex a Lite Radiator with dual fans
Autometer Gauge kit
Classic Dash kit
AR Torque Thrust M Rims and Tires

After the swap is done, I still have to do the interior. If I do another swap when this project is complete, I'll definately have a lot smaller budget unless I go on another 6 month deployment.
Old 12-26-2012, 09:33 PM
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One question about the parts because i'm really thinking about getting a LQ4 or LQ9 (swapping into a heavy car). Are the parts farely easy to get from regular part stores like Auto Zone, O'Rielly's and Pepboys?
Old 09-20-2016, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jfg455
I have done 7 swaps into 88-98 chevy trucks (2wd and 4wd) and S10's (2wd) and our average cost is $4300-$5800 depending on options IE: 5.3L vs 6.0L, keeping the old tranny, A/C, etc. Includes new fuel pump, fuel lines, radiator and heater hoses etc. Turn key out the door. And that is only $1500-$1800 labor. Comes with a drivable tune as well. Dyno tune is extra. just my $.02

We did a 6.0L T76 turbo in a 99 mustang for $9200 out the door. No A/C, modded the TKO500 ford tranny to fit the LS motor etc.

At the same time I did a 5.3L swap into my own 88 K3500 for $1760 total.
I want to get a LS3 with air installed in my 65 ElCamino and want a 5 speed
Thanks John Rackster1315@gmail.com
Old 09-20-2016, 11:47 AM
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I'm in over 10K but refuse to use old crappy junk yard parts. I suppose if you want to do a hillbilly build with greasy corroded iron blocks and transmissions using mostly OEM components and a lot of custom fabrication work then you could stay under 2K. Just do a youtube search and you will find plenty of ghetto builds like that. Before I jumped on to the LS bandwagon I priced out my Oldspower W30 455 build with EFI. That would have easily been upwards of 15K with less desirable results. Another option is to buy a 50K Camaro but what fun is that?

Last edited by L92 OLDS; 09-21-2016 at 07:39 PM.
Old 09-20-2016, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by L92 OLDS
I'm in over 10K but refuse to use old crappy junk part parts. I suppose if you want to do a hillbilly build with greasy corroded iron blocks and transmissions using mostly OEM components and a lot of custom fabrication work then you could stay under 2K. Just do a youtube search and you will find plenty of ghetto builds like that. Before I jumped on to the LS bandwagon I priced out my Oldspower W30 455 build with EFI. That would have easily been upwards of 15K with less desirable results. Another option is to buy a 50K Camaro but what fun is that?
This made me LOL. The most I've spend on a swap was $5000 or so in my Nova. When OEM components are better than anything there was in the aftermarket in the 70s, there are diminishing returns to the money spent on them.

Greasy block from the junkyard? 20 bucks worth of cleaners and some elbow grease and you can have a freshly painted block.
Custom fabrication? I've done $2000 swaps in old muscle cars that required zero fabrication.
Overspending on the unnecessary doesn't make it a better build, it makes you a sucker for spending $1000 on what the next guy can do for $100.

I'm doing a mild rebuild on a 5.3 with a cam, 4L60e, electronic fans and EFI conversion into another Chevelle in a few weeks. I'll post an entire how-to. Zero fabrication (unless you consider a reworked stock harness as fabrication, or maybe a few holes being drilled as fab work), and on a total budget of just $2500. Will it be magazine ready? No. The car itself is a POS. But spending another $10,000 on a slightly better wire tuck and some aftermarket accessory brackets that aren't needed because the OEM stuff fits fine.. seems a bit excessive.
Old 09-20-2016, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
This made me LOL. The most I've spend on a swap was $5000 or so in my Nova. When OEM components are better than anything there was in the aftermarket in the 70s, there are diminishing returns to the money spent on them.

Greasy block from the junkyard? 20 bucks worth of cleaners and some elbow grease and you can have a freshly painted block.
Custom fabrication? I've done $2000 swaps in old muscle cars that required zero fabrication.
Overspending on the unnecessary doesn't make it a better build, it makes you a sucker for spending $1000 on what the next guy can do for $100.

I'm doing a mild rebuild on a 5.3 with a cam, 4L60e, electronic fans and EFI conversion into another Chevelle in a few weeks. I'll post an entire how-to. Zero fabrication (unless you consider a reworked stock harness as fabrication, or maybe a few holes being drilled as fab work), and on a total budget of just $2500. Will it be magazine ready? No. The car itself is a POS. But spending another $10,000 on a slightly better wire tuck and some aftermarket accessory brackets that aren't needed because the OEM stuff fits fine.. seems a bit excessive.
Hey Joe, glad I could provide the entertainment. I agree that it can be done cheaper with quality results and overspending is stupid....especially when it comes to the wiring harness. There is a significant price increase if you choose to go with a 6.2 aluminum block so that is a factor. To each his own but my opinion is that 4.8's and 5.3's lack low end torque and simply painting at 150K mile junk yard engine without doing internals correctly is polishing a turd. It sounds like you know what your are doing and will do it right. There are a lot of swappers out there that aren't paying attention to the details like inclination angles, correct U joints, and chassis / driveline upgrades to handle the power. All of that takes money.
Old 09-20-2016, 03:18 PM
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I don't understand "not doing internals properly". GM already did a damn good job on them, which is why there are so many 1000 HP stock shortblock out there. The idea that you need forged internals for an N/A build when my stock rods and pistons have shrugged off 30 pounds of boost from a billet Borg Warner also seems excessive.

4.8 doesn't have the low end torque? I've solved that with a mild cam, TBSS intake, and a pair of 50mm turbos. The entire setup is still cheaper than even a used 6.2 pullout and makes a couple hundred extra HP.

Wiring is a big complaint of mine. A stock harness can be reworked in a day by someone with no experience, but people have no problems spending $650 on one. That's the same price as a V3 Microsquirt controller with plug and play harness.

There are SO many places people spend too much money on, when the same results can be had for half the price.
Old 09-20-2016, 08:50 PM
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I like fabricating stuff. thats why i do this.

I also allocate my income aggressively towards early retirement, limiting the money I can spend on the hobby. So I junkyard a lot of stuff and roll my own speed parts.

does that mean guys that buy swap kits and holley efi stuff can't enjoy turning money into noise and smoke as much as me?

hell nah, there's room for everyone.

I will say I wish I saved the money I spent of arp rod bolts and bought myself a nice steak dinner
Old 09-21-2016, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by L92 OLDS
Hey Joe, glad I could provide the entertainment. I agree that it can be done cheaper with quality results and overspending is stupid....especially when it comes to the wiring harness. There is a significant price increase if you choose to go with a 6.2 aluminum block so that is a factor. To each his own but my opinion is that 4.8's and 5.3's lack low end torque and simply painting at 150K mile junk yard engine without doing internals correctly is polishing a turd. It sounds like you know what your are doing and will do it right. There are a lot of swappers out there that aren't paying attention to the details like inclination angles, correct U joints, and chassis / driveline upgrades to handle the power. All of that takes money.
Have had a few quotes , I don't mind getting a crate motor as I will be driving it for years to come but the area that seems a little Grey to me is the time it takes , I been told around 80 hours for 2'guys at 85 per hour I am looking for a guy to instal for around 30 and hour max and he better be good .... Lol
Cheers and thanks for insight !
Old 09-21-2016, 03:29 PM
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$4500 running driving BMW 330ci
$350 LQ4 complete with ECU and harness
$2000 forged 408 reciprocating assembly
$160 Straub trunnion upgrade
$320 head machine work
$1100 block machine work, balance, and assembly
$100 BMW shop manual

Still have to buy all hardware, gaskets, car intake setup, T56, M3 rear end, swap mounts, swap headers ($1800 alone for those), flash GM ECU, accessories, accessory mounts, and all the other odds and ends. Will be pushing $20k when all is done I'd guess. My wife gave me the go to just buy a used Z06, but there are Vettes everywhere. Far fewer 408 BMWs, and even harder to pick out of a crowd...
Old 09-21-2016, 08:08 PM
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1800 dollar headers holy ****
Old 09-22-2016, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Rackster1315
Have had a few quotes , I don't mind getting a crate motor as I will be driving it for years to come but the area that seems a little Grey to me is the time it takes , I been told around 80 hours for 2'guys at 85 per hour I am looking for a guy to instal for around 30 and hour max and he better be good .... Lol
Cheers and thanks for insight !
You know the saying right: cheap/fast/quality-pick any two. the guy that does it for $30/hr may take 3 or 4 times longer than the other 2 guys at $85/hr.

Originally Posted by L92 OLDS
I'm in over 10K but refuse to use old crappy junk yard parts. I suppose if you want to do a hillbilly build with greasy corroded iron blocks and transmissions using mostly OEM components and a lot of custom fabrication work then you could stay under 2K. Just do a youtube search and you will find plenty of ghetto builds like that. Before I jumped on to the LS bandwagon I priced out my Oldspower W30 455 build with EFI. That would have easily been upwards of 15K with less desirable results. Another option is to buy a 50K Camaro but what fun is that?
To each their own. Sometimes ones can't afford all new stuff, and there's nothing wrong with jy stuff.

Originally Posted by JoeNova

Wiring is a big complaint of mine. A stock harness can be reworked in a day by someone with no experience, but people have no problems spending $650 on one. That's the same price as a V3 Microsquirt controller with plug and play harness.

There are SO many places people spend too much money on, when the same results can be had for half the price.
True regarding harness. For me, I chose to go with the all new wiring route, mainly to save time.

Originally Posted by truckdoug
1800 dollar headers holy ****
A lot of the cost is labor. I followed a guy on lat-g who documented the process of scratch building his own headers.

For my swap, I chose the jy route (5.3/4L60e). The combo performed better than the Pontiac 400/400 combo it replaced. I had a bit $6000 in the swap, but I also had to swap out the fuel tank; decided to change out the radiator; relocating the battery to the trunk; so some of the cost were not directly associated with the swap.
Old 09-22-2016, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
1800 dollar headers holy ****
No kidding. I usually pay $300 for perfect fit stainless headers. Even on cars that didn't have ready made headers, I'd get ones that look close and 2 hours later, they fit.
Old 09-22-2016, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
No kidding. I usually pay $300 for perfect fit stainless headers. Even on cars that didn't have ready made headers, I'd get ones that look close and 2 hours later, they fit.
Yeah, I'm researching other options, but those are the only 1 7/8 inch long tubes that will fit an LS in that bay due to steering shaft interference. A lot of R&D expense is rolled up in the cost I'm sure. I'm in the beginning stages of what will be a year plus swap, so I have time.


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