Tainted

iTrader: (9)

you should make 400rwhp with that cam. i made close to that with a 228/228 .588/.588 112lsa with ported 241 ls1 heads

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

But what about with only a 1.5" primary header? That's my worry.. not enough out-flow.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

what about having someone custom make you some headers? Is there jsut no aftermarket for the swap headers...?

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

I have a note into a buddy that owns a welding business (and a 300+hp Cosworth SC'd NC series Miata) to see if he is up to the challenge.

Two off the shelf options exist that I know of: Flyin Miata and Sanderson. In reality, FM may be reselling the Sandersons, as I thought I read a Sanderson badge in one of their build photos. It's stupid tight in there so the 1.5 seems to be the answer. Once I get the kit in hand, I may have my buddy stop over and see what he says. Someone could make a killing on 1 3/4" if they could get them to fit.

The Sandersons look like this:



From their site:

DIMENSIONS:

When sitting in driver's seat and engine in front of you, the LEFT header would be the Driver's Side on LH drive vehicles; coincidently, means the RIGHT header is on the passenger side. See the detail image above left that describes engine sides.



Tube Size ............ 1½"
Collector Size ....... 2½"

LEFT RIGHT

DIM A ................. 2½" 2½"
DIM B ................. 10¼" 8¼"

DIM C ................ ---- ----
Weight (Lbs / Kg) . 15 / 6.8

I think the issue is dimension A, and with 1.75" pipe you maybe can't make the bend needed.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

then it may indeed take some custom headers. I assume the engine bay is what making the space tight.. can anything be notched out some to make room for the bends and larger piping?

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the engine bay itself. Not much you can cut, you're into the unibody frame stuff. I need to get my hands on the swap parts and then I can figure out (with the help of my buddy) if he can pull together something bigger than 1.5". More to come once all the parts are here and I can get a better eyeball on it.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

any chance in hell on routing the headers through the uni-body stuff and merging under the car?

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

I've had 1 3/4" long tubes in my Munster (NB Miata) since 2003, when it was built. It's not rocket science.

Speed Freek

iTrader: (2)

In the past I have just taken swap headers, cut them up and rewleded them to make it route like I want, its also nice to have some mandrel donuts and a straight section in the primary size your using in case you need more tubing...

Love your build, I am swapping an LSX motor into my 1st generation Toyota Tacoma, it was sad when I pulled it in the garage to pull the turbo motor that was in it (It made over 350rwhp....) it had tons of power but it was like riding a 125cc 2 stroke dirtkibe as far as the power curve is concerned..it didnt like towing and that was the start of its demise, the turbo died and the engine ate it for lunch....

I am impressed, a miata hiding a GTO powertrain, I like how you think sir.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

It's rocket science to a guy that can't do it. I'll be looking around to see if I can find someone local to build them. I'm certainly not up to the task with my welding skills, so I won't even attempt at this point unless I can get some serious instruction and oversight.

(unless you want to build me some?)

Wallyman

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

I'll be placing some calls. My local pal that owns a welding shop is far too busy, so it's off to referrals and word of mouth. LT's would be nice, but I just want 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" primaries... I'm not picky.

Yeah, a Goat is Girly-car clothing, that's the plan.

Wallyman

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:
PLAN - Putting together the full build parts list based on a list from Jeremy @ FM (Thanks, dude!). The price is stupid, more than I even expected. The little pieces and parts litterally add up to thousands of dollars, but I am not deterred. It's gonna be sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

Sold some more crap around the house, one more thing out of the yard and a little more coin in the mod-fund.

ACCESSORIES - Got a better handle on the front dress stuff. The CTS-V kit that yields the shortest front dress with low AC and Alt is the GMPP kit # 19155066. (see here: http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13240789) The question remaining to be answered is can any of the stock GTO LS2 pieces be reused?

Waterpump & pulley = no
Alternator = unknown
AC compressor = unknown
Tensioner = unknown

FUEL FILTER/PRESSURE REGULATOR - Wix part 33737, Rockauto has them for $33 found here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/7313271-post1.html

REAR DIFFY IDENTIFICATION - Diffy Identification info found here: http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/651399-post7.html

REAR DIFFY VENT PARTS - Not sure if these are right or not, found them via a Solstice thread on a GM TBS for gear whine. Need to confirm @ local dealer (ironically Berger Chevrolet, well known for silly large motors in cars since the 60s):

P/N DISC QTY
15852707 Differential Vent As Needed
1648216 Hose Clamp 2
12337820 Nylon Strap 2
9439238 3/8" Fuel & Oil Resitant Hose 25' 1
89021677(US)
89021678(CAN) Synthetic Gear Lubericant 75W90 1

ocshaman

Good luck with the swap. Have you been to v8miata.net?

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

PARTS - Defined the order with FM, waiting on a ship quote and then it will be placed. Everything (basically) except clutch hydraulics, CAI and front dress.. hope to finalize on Monday.

Wallyman

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

PARTS - Parts ordered!

V8R Engine kit, rearward
V8R Remote oil filter oil pan
FM Motor mount heat shields (**)
FM Flywheel cover plate
Starter blanket
FM Frame reinforcement kit (corner bracing to weld in where you cut the engine bay)
Firewall Grommet for PCM loom
V8R G2 Diffy kit (**)
CTS Getrag, 3.42 (**)
FM Rear diffy breather kit & new hub seals
Poly front diffy mount
FM Crossflow radiator
FM Radiator hose kit
FM Engine hose kit (booster, heater)
FM Stage 2 fan kit for Crossflow radiator
FM Crossflow radiator mounting/wiring kit
FM Heavy duty sway bar mounts (**)
Custom Exhaust (**)
-Elvis original take-off setup
-Sanderson Headers
-FM single outlet (matches up to my Racing Beat body kit single outlet bumper)
AC o-rings
Frog arms
New Racing Beat Type 2 nose (to repair some track damage lingering for a few years ago, oops!!)

All told around $9000 shipped (total to date is around $14700). First boxes arrive next Tuesday (marked with **).

OPEN ISSUES - I left a few things undecided:

Clutch hydraulics - I have the complete stock 06 GTO setup, need to look at it and see if it will work, if not, will piece together a Wilwood setup like I did on the FC LT1 or just buy the V8R/FM kit.

Cold Air Intake - Want to put this down in front of the left wheel, have seen it done somewhere and need to scrounge up that info.

Accessories - been researching this a lot, not sure the solution yet. I think a combo of C5/C6 and modified GTO mounts but the AC still has me wondering.

Fuel system - Have a Wlabr 255 pump in the car already, just need to work out the delivery path. Combo of AN, hardline and nylon line most likely. Have done some reasearch on this and just need to boil it down to a parts list. Have some left over pieces from the FC LT1 so didn't want to just buy it all from FM since I may have half of it already.

Gauges - VDO Vision and Cockpit black, same as FC LT1. I wish there was a better option, but my faith in Autometer is shot and going to a Defi is insanely expensive. The VDO stuff looks nice, but in order to get the 160mph speedo you have to mix the two series. Still, I did it on the FC and it looked fine once I was done, so no worries.

3 3/8"
-160 mph electronic speedo
2 16"
-8k tach
-water temp
-oik pressure
-oil temp
-volt
-fuel level
LED Indicators
-Left, right, high beam
-CEL
-low fuel, high temp, low oil pressure, brake light, ALT light

I have a sequential shift light in the RX7, might steal that and put it in the Sub.. 4 light unit, Otherwise, old skool Harlan shift light from waaaaayyyyy back (which is a nice nostalgic piece to have in an LS1 powered car!). Going to have to fix some dash things since I currently have an a-pillar boost gauge, and 3 gauges plus Harlan shift light mounted above the center vents. Found all the necessary dash pieces in my spare parts area (SWEET!) so that saves me a lot of agony to find them.

Took the day off today, hosting turkey day at my place this year so doing all the domestic stuff.. wee!

Wallyman

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

OLD DRIVE TRAIN - Dropped out! Need to get the car about 8" higher tomorrow to finish, but engine/tranny/front cradle is on the ground.

Got rid of all my LT1 extra parts, so that's cool.. slowly cleaning out the crap-o-torium that is my garage.

Photos tomorrow!
Wallyman

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Research Update:

TRANSMISSION- Confirmed the shifter has to change to line up. See this post for a nice visual reference of why:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...22&postcount=2

Thanks to Keith @ FM for the photo and to sutol1 @ Miata.net for confirming I need the following part:

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...17/7328789.htm

And a F-body shifter (stock or aftermarket). Knowing that is one less thing to worry about! I'll get the part ordered and do some used shifter shopping in the next couple of weeks (love LS1Tech classifieds!!)

Wallyman

DisturbedTA

iTrader: (3)

^^^^gearbox says it dont fit the gto t56? or is that cause it wont fit if you use stock gto shifter?

DisturbedTA

iTrader: (3)

p.s. glw build

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Correct - GTO part is longer (to work with a GTO shifter), I need to use the F-Body part to fit with a F-body shifter. Basically "converting" it to the f-body setup by swapping that and the shifter itself.