72 Olds 442 build
01-04-2011, 08:47 PM
#24
I didn't see a kit made for the Cutlass on Classic Auto Air's website. I'd like to do something like this to my '71. Are you using a kit for a Chevelle?
01-05-2011, 12:11 AM
#25
I'm using their universal kit, cable operated. The stock defrost and vent ducts fit the hose really well. The modification to use the stock controls was minimal. I did change the cam for the AC "on" rather than using the CA switch, but that's not necessary.
The only downside to the universal kit is that the air door only separates the vent/AC and heat/defrost ducts, so you cant separate heat from defrost. Not a big deal to me since I'll be using vent/AC 99% of the time.
I've installe Vintage Air and Classic Air. The cable operated Classic seemed the easiest to modify, but both companies are great to work with and have good products.
The only downside to the universal kit is that the air door only separates the vent/AC and heat/defrost ducts, so you cant separate heat from defrost. Not a big deal to me since I'll be using vent/AC 99% of the time.
I've installe Vintage Air and Classic Air. The cable operated Classic seemed the easiest to modify, but both companies are great to work with and have good products.
01-05-2011, 09:52 AM
#27
I'm using their universal kit, cable operated. The stock defrost and vent ducts fit the hose really well. The modification to use the stock controls was minimal. I did change the cam for the AC "on" rather than using the CA switch, but that's not necessary.
The only downside to the universal kit is that the air door only separates the vent/AC and heat/defrost ducts, so you cant separate heat from defrost. Not a big deal to me since I'll be using vent/AC 99% of the time.
I've installe Vintage Air and Classic Air. The cable operated Classic seemed the easiest to modify, but both companies are great to work with and have good products.
The only downside to the universal kit is that the air door only separates the vent/AC and heat/defrost ducts, so you cant separate heat from defrost. Not a big deal to me since I'll be using vent/AC 99% of the time.
I've installe Vintage Air and Classic Air. The cable operated Classic seemed the easiest to modify, but both companies are great to work with and have good products.
01-07-2011, 08:40 AM
#28
Mating a 10 spline Muncie to an LS motor made easy.
The Sachs 1050 flywheel ($50 Oreileys) is drilled for an old school pressure plate. It's tapped for metric bolts though.
The 11" pressure plate/clutch is Sachs K555203 ($119 Oreileys) and the bolt holes line up. However, 3 of the holes are slightly smaller and will need to be drilled out. The other advantage to this clutch is that I can swap out a $30 26 spline clutch disk later if I want to change to another trans (Richmond, T10, etc).
The only downside is that the flywheel is thick and heavy.
Ialso checked clearance with a standard BBC 621 bell housing, looks good. still need to 0 it in though.
And theres plenty of engagement with the LS7 pilot bearing.
The Sachs 1050 flywheel ($50 Oreileys) is drilled for an old school pressure plate. It's tapped for metric bolts though.
The 11" pressure plate/clutch is Sachs K555203 ($119 Oreileys) and the bolt holes line up. However, 3 of the holes are slightly smaller and will need to be drilled out. The other advantage to this clutch is that I can swap out a $30 26 spline clutch disk later if I want to change to another trans (Richmond, T10, etc).
The only downside is that the flywheel is thick and heavy.
Ialso checked clearance with a standard BBC 621 bell housing, looks good. still need to 0 it in though.
And theres plenty of engagement with the LS7 pilot bearing.
Last edited by garys 68; 01-08-2011 at 02:03 AM.
01-08-2011, 08:20 AM
#29
Pretty much everyone thast's done the swap have had issues with PS pulley interference with the steering box, so I figured I would swap it even before I test fit.
$15 for 300-123 pulley should provide plenty of clearance.
Oh one footnote. The old pulley is 0.9" deep, the new one 0.5". If you try to get the pulley to line up with the truck accessories, it will bind on the PS pump snout before it's aligned. I added a couple washers between the pump and bracket to move it back.
$15 for 300-123 pulley should provide plenty of clearance.
Oh one footnote. The old pulley is 0.9" deep, the new one 0.5". If you try to get the pulley to line up with the truck accessories, it will bind on the PS pump snout before it's aligned. I added a couple washers between the pump and bracket to move it back.
Last edited by garys 68; 01-08-2011 at 01:30 PM.
01-11-2011, 01:24 PM
#33
It's probably 3-4 lbs more than the old metal and paper door. But on the plus side, I wont need as much sound deadenening material. I just laid down about 30 sq ft of sound deadener on the floor, that stuff is heavy. I'll leave it off the doors until after I can check it out.
Heat gun or heater....sounds hi tech. Look at the pic here and you'll figure out my heat source.
Heat gun or heater....sounds hi tech. Look at the pic here and you'll figure out my heat source.
01-11-2011, 02:18 PM
#35
I screwd the old top edge to the work bench. Screwed a 1 x 4 over the pvc to prevent it from bulging below the bend.. Then heated with the torch and pushed the edge down to form over the curved metal piece.
Check out plastics suppliers in the yellow pages. I've bought sheets of pvc, plexi, and lexan from Regal Plastics here in StL. They always seem to have anything I need.
Oh and that's the Muncie I rebuilt earlier in this thread.
Check out plastics suppliers in the yellow pages. I've bought sheets of pvc, plexi, and lexan from Regal Plastics here in StL. They always seem to have anything I need.
Oh and that's the Muncie I rebuilt earlier in this thread.
01-11-2011, 05:16 PM
#36
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Mating a 10 spline Muncie to an LS motor made easy.
The Sachs 1050 flywheel ($50 Oreileys) is drilled for an old school pressure plate. It's tapped for metric bolts though.
The 11" pressure plate/clutch is Sachs K555203 ($119 Oreileys) and the bolt holes line up. However, 3 of the holes are slightly smaller and will need to be drilled out. The other advantage to this clutch is that I can swap out a $30 26 spline clutch disk later if I want to change to another trans (Richmond, T10, etc).
The only downside is that the flywheel is thick and heavy.
Ialso checked clearance with a standard BBC 621 bell housing, looks good. still need to 0 it in though.
And theres plenty of engagement with the LS7 pilot bearing.
The Sachs 1050 flywheel ($50 Oreileys) is drilled for an old school pressure plate. It's tapped for metric bolts though.
The 11" pressure plate/clutch is Sachs K555203 ($119 Oreileys) and the bolt holes line up. However, 3 of the holes are slightly smaller and will need to be drilled out. The other advantage to this clutch is that I can swap out a $30 26 spline clutch disk later if I want to change to another trans (Richmond, T10, etc).
The only downside is that the flywheel is thick and heavy.
Ialso checked clearance with a standard BBC 621 bell housing, looks good. still need to 0 it in though.
And theres plenty of engagement with the LS7 pilot bearing.
