LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
12-29-2010, 02:53 AM
#61
Looking at a Griffith direct fit aluminum double pass with the upper and lower on the right side. I have heard of a seller on Ebay that has some nice radiator/fan packages for around $600. The Griffith radiator alone is $511 plus tax. Speedway Motors has a ton of aluminum radiators for dirt cheap. I havent called them yet but will see what they have to offer. What radiator did you have in mind? I will take some measurements once I see where the engine will be mounted. But three things in the way of the radiator are certain 1) it will be aluminum 2) it will be a double pass 3)inlet and outlet will be on the passenger side. I am not sure if a direct fit will be worth the extra money. I need to see what I can have the mounting flanges welded on for. I have a spool gun but that is some thin aluminum. Yeah let me know when you start your thread on your particular build. Good luck and thanks!
12-29-2010, 05:55 AM
#62
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Let us know what you find out about the radiator. Great information so far. Im on almost NO BUDGET, your information thus far has been a tremendous help to my build budget. Its much appreciated. 
12-29-2010, 03:49 PM
#64
Thanks 70Nova! Yeah I am on a strict overtime and bonus check budget. I have until Feb. 2011 until the next bonus check so it's overtime here we come. I try to buy the necessary items first without having to redo too much. I search for hours the best route to take as far as price and quality. Some of the unnecessary items will come later after I get the engine in and running. Not just running but moving the car under its own power. Whats sad is this car was running pretty good before I yanked everything out. I just love the potential of these engines. I try to help anyone but I am also new at the whole LS engine thing. I have learned a lot from so many people on here its mind-blowing. Hate to use people as guinea pigs but thats just the way it is. I did get my oil pan, pick up tube and IAC in today. I checked and my headers are in transit to be delivered today!!! Got to get a shot of the engine as a whole this evening. May go ahead this weekend and test fit her in my car. Thanks again and good luck on your build. My suggestion is to take your time and get the critical items first. I didn't skimp on the internals as they are a pian in the butt to access once the engine is in place. Items like roller rockers, valve covers, and pulleys all can be changed out after the fact.
12-29-2010, 03:51 PM
#65
BMF5150= I would go with what I had available. If you need to run the top hose over for the time being then do so. You can always buy another radiator later. Then sell the B Cool and your only out what the price of the top hose cost you. There are still a ton of Gen1 SBC out there that would love to buy that B Cool if you decided to sell it.
12-30-2010, 12:25 AM
#68
Pic of my water pump spacers I made. Nothing fancy but they work great. I did however need an extra set of gaskets and longer bolts. I purchased stainless bolts for the W/P. The other spacers pictured are for the tensioner. They are .950" in diameter and 1" long.[IMG]
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12-31-2010, 12:19 PM
#69
BMF= I know they make different grades but what the torque settings are I am unsure. I followed the directions to the "t". If yours told you to do only torque to 40lbs. Then thats what I would do. I used the lube they sent with the bolts liberally. I used to torque with loctite in the SBC Gen1 but ARP does not recommend it. Yeah mine stated if "my cheap *** didnt have a bolt length checking mic" than your redneck *** needs to torque, lossen, torque, loosen, and a final re-torque. Prolly just want to make me work harder to appreciate the $80 bolts. LOL. Its all about the stretch. These bolts were designed to stretch .0055 to achieve the best holding power. If I had a mic to check this by I could have measure the stretch as I torqued them and be done in one pass.
FroJoe= I cheated and used a 5/8" roughing mill once I popped a hole in there. It turned out ok but would have been better had I owned a boring head. Once my engine and all is done its time to stock up on some machine shop supplies. You can purchase these in different lengths but I figured I had the material and the time, why not.
FroJoe= I cheated and used a 5/8" roughing mill once I popped a hole in there. It turned out ok but would have been better had I owned a boring head. Once my engine and all is done its time to stock up on some machine shop supplies. You can purchase these in different lengths but I figured I had the material and the time, why not.
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01-02-2011, 07:44 PM
#75
It doesnt look like it in this pic but there is about 5/16" of clearance between the end of the square and the bottom of the pan. If you include the gasket thickness it should put me right at 3/8" or better. Ideally 3/8" would be best but with the rigidity of the pick ups bracketry it would be hard to get it exact with out shimming the rear hold down. If I did that I would be more concerned of the fitment at the pump. If anything is important that section is for me. The Moroso pick up came with the blue o-ring just FYI.
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01-02-2011, 07:48 PM
#76
New Fel Pro gasket. About $50 worth of aluminum and rubber. I am in the wrong business for sure. I like the generic instructions Moroso send with my new pan. It stated that the rear section of the baffles might need to clearanced for the oil pump. Maybe I have my oil pump on the wrong end, hhhhmmmm.
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01-02-2011, 07:55 PM
#77
Two areas of concern:
1) the oil outlets are in the way of the bolt. So I had to shorten the bolt considerably to get it to clear this fitting. I guess a stud would have worked better but I made it work.
2) there is a hole in the pan to the right of the previously mentioned one that has no hole or threads in the block. There is however a place that could be drilled and tapped but what a pain in the *** would that be with the pan already installed. I think the railing system is rigid enough not to need it but I am still considering doing it right. The problem is mainly the kick out of the pan blocks the hole from being drilled and tapped. If I remove the pan and drill and tap it I take a chance of metal shavings getting where they dont belong. I think for now we will roll the dice and go with what we have. Any suggestions?
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1) the oil outlets are in the way of the bolt. So I had to shorten the bolt considerably to get it to clear this fitting. I guess a stud would have worked better but I made it work.
2) there is a hole in the pan to the right of the previously mentioned one that has no hole or threads in the block. There is however a place that could be drilled and tapped but what a pain in the *** would that be with the pan already installed. I think the railing system is rigid enough not to need it but I am still considering doing it right. The problem is mainly the kick out of the pan blocks the hole from being drilled and tapped. If I remove the pan and drill and tap it I take a chance of metal shavings getting where they dont belong. I think for now we will roll the dice and go with what we have. Any suggestions?
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01-02-2011, 07:59 PM
#78
Another gripe of mine is Moroso doesn't send out bolts with their pans. They know that new bolts are needed for the front cover area and there are two bolts that you will need at the rear cover. Your factory pan used two bolts that are long and there is no way to make them work with the Moroso pan. Heres is another shot of the clearance issue of the bolt.
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[/IMG] Last edited by tsnow678; 01-02-2011 at 08:04 PM.
01-02-2011, 08:01 PM
#79
The pan is on and ready to go. Now to flip this hog back over. Its like me trying to roll the old lady over. You gotta put your back into it. Old lady is pissed so let me set the record straight, she is 95lbs. of wonderful woman and she has a harder time rolling me over.
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[/IMG] Last edited by tsnow678; 01-02-2011 at 08:14 PM.
01-02-2011, 08:04 PM
#80
Heeevvvveee HHHHoooooo! And she is right side up again. Man She is a heavy piece. Here is a side shot of the pan in case you need a reference of the fitment. If you need me to measure any part of it let me know exactly where and I will be happy to do so.
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