Stans 1968 camaro LS swap and other upgrades!
02-04-2011, 06:46 PM
#61
Steve, I don't have pic, but if it helps, it had so little slack. As I recall, a finger pressing in the middle, between each sprocket, produced very little deflection/maybe the thickness of the chain itself (3/8"?).
Last edited by gMAG; 02-04-2011 at 08:12 PM.
02-04-2011, 06:54 PM
#62
Some people like the Lokar or the OEM cable. They seem to fit the bill nicely.
I found that the correct length for LS1/67-69 Camaro was somewhere in between the 36" & 48". Being that there wasn't an 'in between' cable, I cut a 48" OEM cable which cost $26 @ GM PartsDirect.
1) Remove the metal inner cable by cutting off the ferrule at the pedal end, then pulling the metal cable out from the plastic sheath. Save the ferrule & the plastic gas pedal grommet.
2) Using the plastic outer sheath, size up the 'correct' length in the engine compartment. The plastic sheath can then be dremel cut just before the plastic grommet at the firewall (engine bay side) leaving about a 3/8" (or more!) plastic stub sticking out from the grommet. Then, cut the other end of the plastic sheath to accommodate your proper length.
Buy a 3/4" or 1" metal sleeve (Lowes), just large enough to fit over the ends of the plastic throttle sleeve. Slide both ends of the cut plastic throttle sleeve into the metal sleeve. I used just a bit of rubber gasket seal between the plastic sleeve (carefully) inside the metal sleeve to keep it all together.
2) Re-insert the metal cable into the outer plastic sleeve, pulling it through. Mount the sleeve on the engine, and through the firewall. You can shorten the metal cable to the 'correct' length by cutting at the gas pedal end (I used a dremel w/cutting wheel for this, too...makes a CLEAN cut), leaving enough cable to ALLOW FOR PROPER GAS PEDAL TRAVEL. Before you cut the cable, you might plan on leaving enough cable beyond the replaced ferrule so that a knot can be tied after it for extra security.
I redrilled the ferrule so that it could be slid back on to the 'new' end of the cable. Getting the cable back through the ferrule can be a pain! DON'T FORGET to place the plastic gas pedal grommet on there FIRST, BEFORE THE FERRULE. Ask me how I know this.
Then, tighten/squeeze the ferrule with pliers. If the ferrule isn't allowing you to reuse it, you can always just tie a knot in the cable.
A final note...everything didn't line up exactly as planned. I had to tweak the hole in the firewall bec the grommet on the throttle cbl was a bit larger than the hole, and to make the cable line up with the new "CROSSRAM GAS PEDAL ASSY". I believe that a small hole saw bit with drill was req, but I can't remember what size.(3/4"? maybe).
Just an alternative for you.
I found that the correct length for LS1/67-69 Camaro was somewhere in between the 36" & 48". Being that there wasn't an 'in between' cable, I cut a 48" OEM cable which cost $26 @ GM PartsDirect.
1) Remove the metal inner cable by cutting off the ferrule at the pedal end, then pulling the metal cable out from the plastic sheath. Save the ferrule & the plastic gas pedal grommet.
2) Using the plastic outer sheath, size up the 'correct' length in the engine compartment. The plastic sheath can then be dremel cut just before the plastic grommet at the firewall (engine bay side) leaving about a 3/8" (or more!) plastic stub sticking out from the grommet. Then, cut the other end of the plastic sheath to accommodate your proper length.
Buy a 3/4" or 1" metal sleeve (Lowes), just large enough to fit over the ends of the plastic throttle sleeve. Slide both ends of the cut plastic throttle sleeve into the metal sleeve. I used just a bit of rubber gasket seal between the plastic sleeve (carefully) inside the metal sleeve to keep it all together.
2) Re-insert the metal cable into the outer plastic sleeve, pulling it through. Mount the sleeve on the engine, and through the firewall. You can shorten the metal cable to the 'correct' length by cutting at the gas pedal end (I used a dremel w/cutting wheel for this, too...makes a CLEAN cut), leaving enough cable to ALLOW FOR PROPER GAS PEDAL TRAVEL. Before you cut the cable, you might plan on leaving enough cable beyond the replaced ferrule so that a knot can be tied after it for extra security.
I redrilled the ferrule so that it could be slid back on to the 'new' end of the cable. Getting the cable back through the ferrule can be a pain! DON'T FORGET to place the plastic gas pedal grommet on there FIRST, BEFORE THE FERRULE. Ask me how I know this.
Then, tighten/squeeze the ferrule with pliers. If the ferrule isn't allowing you to reuse it, you can always just tie a knot in the cable.
A final note...everything didn't line up exactly as planned. I had to tweak the hole in the firewall bec the grommet on the throttle cbl was a bit larger than the hole, and to make the cable line up with the new "CROSSRAM GAS PEDAL ASSY". I believe that a small hole saw bit with drill was req, but I can't remember what size.(3/4"? maybe).
Just an alternative for you.
Last edited by gMAG; 02-05-2011 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Refine procedure
02-04-2011, 09:49 PM
#64
I am using the Lokar universal cable for the LS. I used a 6 cylinder pedal out of a 69 nova since it was cable actuated versus the lever style the V8's used. If you try to buy a new one they are around $70 since it is the same pedal used on the cross ram Z/28. You can buy the Lokar pedal but it is $150. I got my 6 cylinder pedal for $20 at the local salvage yard. I reinforced it just to be safe. I will post some pics maybe tomorrow of it so you can reference back to it.
As far as I can tell from what I have read, the timing chains on these engines have slack in them. I used a brand new LS2 (improved links) and I had the same amount of slack in mine. All it drives is the cam unlike the old SBC that drove the cam, distributor, and the oil pump. That is why I didnt bother to degree the cam in. I figure with the slack I was wasting my time.
As far as I can tell from what I have read, the timing chains on these engines have slack in them. I used a brand new LS2 (improved links) and I had the same amount of slack in mine. All it drives is the cam unlike the old SBC that drove the cam, distributor, and the oil pump. That is why I didnt bother to degree the cam in. I figure with the slack I was wasting my time.
02-04-2011, 11:27 PM
#65
I recall reading about the play in the OEM chain and bought the JWIS version because the slack was less. The reasoning was that over time, slack can become greater, causing timing/efficiency problems.
tsnow, thanks for bringing up the 'crossram' pedal.
Presently, Classic Industries has a 20% off sale, if someone wants a new one...normally $49.99-20% part #14318 for 68-69 Camaro.
tsnow, thanks for bringing up the 'crossram' pedal.
Presently, Classic Industries has a 20% off sale, if someone wants a new one...normally $49.99-20% part #14318 for 68-69 Camaro.
Last edited by gMAG; 02-04-2011 at 11:43 PM.
02-05-2011, 07:39 AM
#67
As far as I can tell from what I have read, the timing chains on these engines have slack in them. I used a brand new LS2 (improved links) and I had the same amount of slack in mine. All it drives is the cam unlike the old SBC that drove the cam, distributor, and the oil pump. That is why I didnt bother to degree the cam in. I figure with the slack I was wasting my time.
Thanks for the info!!!! very useful,
Thanks for the info!!!! very useful,
02-05-2011, 11:06 AM
#69
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Found this for a cable based gas pedal,not bad for price!!!
http://www.restorationperformance.co...r-Pedal/Detail
http://www.restorationperformance.co...r-Pedal/Detail
02-05-2011, 11:55 AM
#71
This is a good looking project! I just finished putting together an LQ4 (6 liter LS1 style motor) with a T76 Turbo in my Dad's 69 GTO Judge clone (build thread link is in my signature below)
it looks like you are making pretty good time. It to me and a buddy 3 and a half months working a couple nights a week for about 4 hours a night in the beginning and then about the last month or so we started doing 4-5 nights a week for about 4-5 hours a night
good luck with your project!
it looks like you are making pretty good time. It to me and a buddy 3 and a half months working a couple nights a week for about 4 hours a night in the beginning and then about the last month or so we started doing 4-5 nights a week for about 4-5 hours a night
good luck with your project!
02-07-2011, 01:51 PM
#76
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Latching on! Beautiful car, looks like a great build. I'll be watching this closely as I am about to put an LS1/T56 combo into my 68 Camaro! Keep up the great work guys, lots of us are out here watching with envy!
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02-10-2011, 12:02 PM
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Well I talked to street and performance today!they say to put the car down on the ground or on jack stand level!with the end of trans facing down set it with the angle finder to 4 to 5 degrees!then shim it back to 2 degrees that way you have some adjustment!!I was trying to figure out the correct way to set it!