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Old 01-09-2011, 02:56 PM
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^troof about the truck vs car intakes and truck accessories, thats definitely something to look around in this section for, because in the last couple months a lot of guys have come up with ideas (bandits thread comes to mind)

Also, what sixty4 mentioned about the heads is what youre talking about. IIRC 317s are truck heads, 243s being ls6 heads, I think they have the same flow characteristics with slightly different combustion chambers, so good call. I do think theres a difference between 5.3 and 'regular' truck intakes vs the TBSS, from the small amount of research ive done it looks to have the same bottom end power with more up top.

As far as power NA goes, my old 347 with AFR/fast made 430 hp 405 ftlbs, its getting rebuilt with very worked over 243s and a different cam and itll be closer to 460 whp. My ls2 402/ls3 combo is scheduled to make 500/500 at the wheels, but all of these are 'daily driven' setups, meaning i wanted GOOD manners, decent mileage (heh) and all my fun 'under the curve'. I dont hit 5k rpms unless im really doing some 'spirited' driving, so making my power below that was key to still having fun

If a benchmark helps, with stock heads and supporting mods PatG made 500 whp on a cam only 5.7. If all out NA power is what you're thinking, a good well thought out combo is key.
Old 01-09-2011, 07:39 PM
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I was just reading about the intake swap, regarding relocating the alt, and idler. I think budget wise I'll pick up a truck manifold.
I'll more than likely do the intake and cam first.

I'll keep an eye for LS6 heads, not a big priority right now. Need to get the block checked out and cleaned.
Any suggestions on things to do to the block?


all of these are 'daily driven' setups, meaning i wanted GOOD manners, decent mileage (heh) and all my fun 'under the curve'. I dont hit 5k rpms unless im really doing some 'spirited' driving, so making my power below that was key to still having fun
THIS is exactly what I'm looking for. This will also be my daily driver and like you, I dont hit high that often either.


If all out NA power is what you're thinking, a good well thought out combo is key.
While I am going to be starting of N/A, I would eventually like to have some sort of boost. More than likely turbo.
This is were I need the MOST help/advise though. What combo to go with. This is where I'm lost. I guess you could say I'm a newbie.

Thanks again guys, your info/help is much appreciated.
Old 01-09-2011, 08:05 PM
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Btw, feel free to pm me if you get tired of me takin up your thread.. I just sit here and spam tech when ive got nothing else to do

If i were in your shoes, id keep the heads, do whatever your builder says on the bottom end, based off of the boost/power you think youll need down the road. If youve got a cam, id keep it until the boost, at which time Id get a cam made for your type of FI, numbers, other supporting mods, etc. Intake and heads are kind of a non-factor at that point, until youre concerned with the difference between 600 and 800 hp

Since youre going to cram atmosphere into the engine, instead of making it suck air in as efficiently as possible (na setup), you can focus on making it not break and just making sure everything works in harmony for this first iteration. An ls6 intake may flow better than the stock 5.3 intake, but at that point its already got like twice the air it would normally have.

Youre putting it in the 2door right?? In that thing youve gotta have room for whatever you'd want to do, blower,single/twins, etc..

Do you have any way to fab stuff? That would make an ebay-turbo a very viable option, youve probably seen some of the other 5.3/turbo builds out here (theres that one chevelle guy who seems like he has a new FI setup every season ). Doing it yourself is always gonna be the 'cheap' way, but how much can you logically do yourself? Sometimes the cost differential between say, an off the shelf turbo/supercharger and an ebay turbo kit is completely made up for in the ease of install. Sure the turbos like 1200 bucks, but youve gotta make your own headers, and find parts; sure the 'out of the box' unit is more off the bat, but it bolts on and comes with everything. I think its worth it to decide what your dream version of the truck is, then figure out the cheap way to go, then decide what the fair balance is
Old 01-09-2011, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Irish350
Btw, feel free to pm me if you get tired of me takin up your thread.. I just sit here and spam tech when ive got nothing else to do

If i were in your shoes, id keep the heads, do whatever your builder says on the bottom end, based off of the boost/power you think youll need down the road. If youve got a cam, id keep it until the boost, at which time Id get a cam made for your type of FI, numbers, other supporting mods, etc. Intake and heads are kind of a non-factor at that point, until youre concerned with the difference between 600 and 800 hp

Since youre going to cram atmosphere into the engine, instead of making it suck air in as efficiently as possible (na setup), you can focus on making it not break and just making sure everything works in harmony for this first iteration. An ls6 intake may flow better than the stock 5.3 intake, but at that point its already got like twice the air it would normally have.

Youre putting it in the 2door right?? In that thing youve gotta have room for whatever you'd want to do, blower,single/twins, etc..

Do you have any way to fab stuff? That would make an ebay-turbo a very viable option, youve probably seen some of the other 5.3/turbo builds out here (theres that one chevelle guy who seems like he has a new FI setup every season ). Doing it yourself is always gonna be the 'cheap' way, but how much can you logically do yourself? Sometimes the cost differential between say, an off the shelf turbo/supercharger and an ebay turbo kit is completely made up for in the ease of install. Sure the turbos like 1200 bucks, but youve gotta make your own headers, and find parts; sure the 'out of the box' unit is more off the bat, but it bolts on and comes with everything. I think its worth it to decide what your dream version of the truck is, then figure out the cheap way to go, then decide what the fair balance is
Thanks for the offer, you'll get sick of me before you know it

My bad, I should've clarified my situation. Its a short block less heads and I'm the engine builder. I am going to bring it to a shop to have it looked at and from my understanding I should get it decked and honed. Is that correct?

So far, I plan on building as stout a motor as I can afford. If it takes me a year, so be it.

This will be going in my 2dr = tons of options/room

"Tig" aka tig welder + plenty of material =

Thanks again, you will have mail in three two one
Old 01-12-2011, 11:43 AM
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I recently bought a 2006 Silverado 5.3L rpo L33 complete takeout engine for an LS swap into my 96 V6 Camaro. Aluminum block.

looking at the engine I was pleasantly surprised to find it has 243 cylinder heads. until today, I only thought they used #799 heads or other truck heads.

So what do I have exactly? a small displacement LS6 engine? what else sets the L33 apart?
Old 01-12-2011, 12:44 PM
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Here is a great site that will help.

http://archives.media.gm.com/us/powe...ars/index.html

Andrew
Old 01-15-2011, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rafedial
I recently bought a 2006 Silverado 5.3L rpo L33 complete takeout engine for an LS swap into my 96 V6 Camaro. Aluminum block.

looking at the engine I was pleasantly surprised to find it has 243 cylinder heads. until today, I only thought they used #799 heads or other truck heads.

So what do I have exactly? a small displacement LS6 engine? what else sets the L33 apart?
Sounds like it was matched up with car parts, ie: heads.
L33 is a 5.3, all LS based cars were 5.7 on up. Besides the FWD cars.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


I found a deal on some 317 heads, should be getting them this week. I'll be bringing my motor to a local shop to get it looked at. Probably get it decked and honed.
So, for a FI budget build. What would you guys do?
I'm going to go over this with the machinest/builder to. Just want to get some ideas.
It will be boosted. I'm hoping for a single Turbo.
So, if you have any ideas, send them my way. I need all the help I can get

Thanks

Last edited by Tig; 01-23-2011 at 01:14 PM.
Old 01-23-2011, 01:26 PM
  #28  
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Few questions.
I would like to get some ARP bolts.
Do they make complete engine bolt kits?

How can I find out exactly what year and model my block is?

I have found a complete iron 5.3 that includes the harness and wanted to use the accessory drive from it as well as basically every thing else.

Are all 5.3 the same? Meaning, can I take the accessory drive and all external parts off an iron block and bolt them to an aluminum block? Do the aluminum blocks use the same hardware as the iron blocks?

Sorry if these are all stupid questions. My mind is going 1000 miles a minute.
Any help/info would be appreciated.
Any info on building it would appreciated to.

Thanks
Old 02-15-2011, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tig
Few questions.
I would like to get some ARP bolts.
Do they make complete engine bolt kits?

How can I find out exactly what year and model my block is?

I have found a complete iron 5.3 that includes the harness and wanted to use the accessory drive from it as well as basically every thing else.

Are all 5.3 the same? Meaning, can I take the accessory drive and all external parts off an iron block and bolt them to an aluminum block? Do the aluminum blocks use the same hardware as the iron blocks?

Sorry if these are all stupid questions. My mind is going 1000 miles a minute.
Any help/info would be appreciated.
Any info on building it would appreciated to.

Thanks
from what ive researched (im putting an L33 in my 91 Formula) all accessories from 4.8/5.3/5.7./6.0 are interchangeable, meaning a 6.0 can be made into an "LS1" and an LS1 can be made into an LQ4 Externally. So yes, you can take the iron 5.3 parts and swap them.
Old 02-15-2011, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Tig
Few questions.
I would like to get some ARP bolts.
Do they make complete engine bolt kits?

How can I find out exactly what year and model my block is?

I have found a complete iron 5.3 that includes the harness and wanted to use the accessory drive from it as well as basically every thing else.

Are all 5.3 the same? Meaning, can I take the accessory drive and all external parts off an iron block and bolt them to an aluminum block? Do the aluminum blocks use the same hardware as the iron blocks?

Sorry if these are all stupid questions. My mind is going 1000 miles a minute.
Any help/info would be appreciated.
Any info on building it would appreciated to.

Thanks
There were several Aluminum early 5.3L.

LM4- Gen III an aluminum block version of the LM7 used in 2003-04 in early SSR and trailblazers. It has the regular 5.3L heads and dished pistons

L33- Gen III its the aluminum block HO 5.3L used in 2005–2007 fullsize trucks. They had 243/799 heads and had flat top pistons .

LH6- Gen IV block with AFM( DOD) I can't remeber off the top of my head what heads they had.


The SSR later in 05 got the LS2

They all interchange with any Gen III/IV long block. So you can buy a cheap iron 5.3L and swap parts over to the AL version.
Old 02-15-2011, 07:45 PM
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yeah i'd almost say buy a cheap high mileage iron 5.3 complete, take off all the parts you need and sell the bare block for a couple hundred, might come up paying nothing for what you need thru the re-sale.
Old 02-15-2011, 07:58 PM
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Or bore the 5.3l iron block out to LS1 bore size and run LS1 pistons for an iron block LS1! haha
Old 02-15-2011, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.
From the look of it I have an L33, since mine came without heads and I have flat tops.
I scored a set of 317s for short money to.

Sounds like a plan, missed the last deal, I'll search around for a complete 5.3 and strip it down for all the parts I need and sell whatever is left over.

Thanks again guys.
Old 02-15-2011, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Tig
Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.
From the look of it I have an L33, since mine came without heads and I have flat tops.
I scored a set of 317s for short money to.

Sounds like a plan, missed the last deal, I'll search around for a complete 5.3 and strip it down for all the parts I need and sell whatever is left over.

Thanks again guys.
You should have around 10:1 CR with those heads and the flat tops.

If it was me I would have the 317 ported. Several sponsors on here do it for not alot of money! Search around.
Old 02-16-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tig
Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.
From the look of it I have an L33, since mine came without heads and I have flat tops.
I scored a set of 317s for short money to.

Sounds like a plan, missed the last deal, I'll search around for a complete 5.3 and strip it down for all the parts I need and sell whatever is left over.

Thanks again guys.
Does your shortblock have the cam sensor located on the front timing cover, or at the back of the valley cover? If it is on the front cover, it is a Gen lV engine and is most likely an LH6. Does it have a valley cover that is flat and smooth or does it look like it has oil channels built into it? If it doesn't have the valley cover, does it have 8 what I will call towers built into the valley of the engine? They would come up about even with where the valley cover bolts on and have about a 3/8" hole in top. If it doesn't have any of this, it's a Gen lll, and the aluminum block says it is either an LM4 or an L33
If it is an LH6, it may still be a 24 tooth reluctor engine. Friend bought one out of an '05 Envoy. It had #799 heads which are identicle to #243 heads except for valve springs. They also don't have lite valves like ZO6. All of these Gen lV engines had DOD I believe. Ron
Old 02-16-2011, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Bo185
You should have around 10:1 CR with those heads and the flat tops.

If it was me I would have the 317 ported. Several sponsors on here do it for not alot of money! Search around.
Don't think you will have 10:1 with the 317's as they have, I think, about a 71 CC chamber. On the other hand the #799's and the #243's have a 65 CC chamber. The LH6 engine I mentioned in the post above also has flat tops (we checked) and as I said, it has #799 heads with 65 CC chambers (I checked them) and the specs for it calls for 9.9:1 . Ron
Old 02-16-2011, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rojs234
Don't think you will have 10:1 with the 317's as they have, I think, about a 71 CC chamber. On the other hand the #799's and the #243's have a 65 CC chamber. The LH6 engine I mentioned in the post above also has flat tops (we checked) and as I said, it has #799 heads with 65 CC chambers (I checked them) and the specs for it calls for 9.9:1 . Ron
The 243 and 799 are the same castings. I have even seen one 243 on one side of a production truck and a 799 on the other.


It my not be that high of a CR but the LQ9 has flat tops with 317's and it is 10:1. So it won't be as low a CR as if it had dished pistons though. It my be 9.5:1 maybe?

When GM switched to the 243/799 heads on the 5.3l's they needed the flat tops to make up CR for the larger chamber 64cc of the 243/799 heads vs the reg. 5.3L 862/706cast 61cc chambers.

Last edited by Bo185; 02-16-2011 at 05:13 PM.
Old 02-16-2011, 05:19 PM
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the buick rainiers had the aluminum 5.3s , first I remember after the ssr
Old 02-17-2011, 11:55 AM
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[QUOTE=Bo185;14513627]The 243 and 799 are the same castings. I have even seen one 243 on one side of a production truck and a 799 on the other.


It my not be that high of a CR but the LQ9 has flat tops with 317's and it is 10:1. So it won't be as low a CR as if it had dished pistons though. It my be 9.5:1 maybe?

When GM switched to the 243/799 heads on the 5.3l's they needed the flat tops to make up CR for the larger chamber 64cc of the 243/799 heads vs the reg. 5.3L 862/706cast 61cc chambers.[/QUOTE

You are right about the castings being identical. At the time we pulled the #799's off his engine I had a brand new set of #243 ZO6 heads setting inthe shop. I checked them with my CC burette and they were within .2 CC. Ports appear to be identicle. 243's all have the LS6 valve springs. Mine also have the lite valves. I wish now that I had checked the deck height on the engine so I could give you the exact compression ratio. Great little engines. Ron
Old 02-17-2011, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rojs234
You are right about the castings being identical. At the time we pulled the #799's off his engine I had a brand new set of #243 ZO6 heads setting inthe shop. I checked them with my CC burette and they were within .2 CC. Ports appear to be identicle. 243's all have the LS6 valve springs. Mine also have the lite valves. I wish now that I had checked the deck height on the engine so I could give you the exact compression ratio. Great little engines. Ron
I wonder how ported 317 with lower CR (or course) would do vs stock 243/799's power wise?



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