modstang60

Nice build

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Those are chevelle frame mounts. Here's a link on the 2 different kinds.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...s-gm-body.html
Also check out:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...tor_Mounts.asp
For adapter plates Edelbrock 1" setbacks put the motor about 1/4" forward of the original location. Hooker makes mounts that are closer to original. My 72 442 is using the edelbrock style and the trans still uses the stock crossmember without mods.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I am not going to dyno tune mine, but it's just a cruiser so I'm not terribly worried about it. Dyno time is expensive and I cannot wrap my head around paying $500 for it, plus the cost of a new driveshaft and etc (I don't like the idea of spinning the hell out of a 40-year old one).

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Per my other post on water in the engine, I'm going to swap out the cam with a MAST unit. Never swapped an LS engine cam, nor a VVT. Anyone know of good online resources to educate me--especially any video how tos? Or of any thing I should purchase before doing this swap?

Also I ordered Melling's preluber; will get today. Although I've cleaned up the engine I want to complete pressurize it given the water that went thru it. Using the cheap oil that I'll just drain and recycle.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, had a number of issues w/the preluber. First the galley plug had to be modified to allow me to connect the preluber (drilled and tapped the plug). But then I couldn't see oil up at the rockers. Called Melling and they said LS lifters are very restrictive; often won't see up there with their preluber. Suggested I pull the valley cover to verify prelube. Did that today, and oil is thru system. I had previously been recommended by several old heads to run kerosene thru the engine since kerosene absorbs water and will leave an oil residue. I did that and the prelube should clean out any remaining kerosene and I'll drain this oil and recycle. But you can see from the one pic the one cam lobe has rust; definitely swapping it out. From this vantage point the lifters looked fine.

Wiring harness is out being reworked; so are my Rally pac gauges (converting my mechanical speedo to electronic speedo).

Got a new LS7 clutch setup yesterday from the LS1tech classified, and TDP is supposed to be getting a T56 swap tranny ready.

Still needing an oil pan; looking to get a CTS-v if I find one complete @ <$200. I will probably go w/complete BRP kit since they now have a conv T56 crossmbr.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, still getting parts; bought a CTS-V oil pan off a board mbr and waiting for that to come in. Still trying to find which cam is best. Got a bit of a dillemma in that Comp Cams says they don't support 2010 L96 engines; I didn't quite understand why (guy wasn't really clear), said something about changes (SW?) w/in the ECM for this engine that they couldn't offer a cam. I thought the only difference was to be able to run flex fuel. If that is a s/w thing, I only plan on running gas! Haven't been able to get other cam guys to respond yet (mast, tdp), but I need to be sure the cam will work.

Went out to the car yesterday to look at the silverado DBW pedal, and as you can see from the pic, this is a definite no go; you cant push the pedal down as it hits the tunnel/carpet immediately. to move it so it would work would take building a bracket and then it would stick way out. However, found another thread here that says the solution is a 2007 MOnte Carlo SS DBW pedal, and they are only a bit over $30 online, so I'll be getting one of these soon.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...n-2-0-a-5.html

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Finally popped the rod cap off that was closest to the flywheel (where the rust was concentrated from the water in the engine). Pics below but there is still rust in between the rods, but none on the bearing or crank where the bearing rides. While I hate it anywhere, I think I'll just bolt this on and be done. And since I found that the rod bolts are NOT tty, but just torque angle, and the Gen IV rod bolts are much better than the LS1s, think I will just reuse the stock bolts. I'm consulting a few trusted agents right now, but this is the way I'm leaning. If I do that, I'll order the cam later this week and start swapping that out.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, I went ahead and reinstalled the rod cap and proceeded with the cam swap. Got the stock one out and the one lobe that had rust was very smooth; suspect it would have ran just fine but since I was going to a new cam at some point anyway it was a good idea just to do it now. Got the new cam in and only ? I had was the phaser doesn't have the std dot, but it does have an arrow. Checked and others suggested that was it, so I went ahead and installed. The directions say to use a 24mm socket on the cam phaser bolt; that was a bit loose for me and 15/16 fit better. I went with a Mast cam and spring kit and the comp cams phaser restrictor. The install of the phaser restrictor was pretty straightforward but I was very careful. Instructions were fine. Had a problem getting the harmonic balancer off; my 3 jaw craftsman puller finally got it off and everything went crashing to the floor. Think everything's ok, but I do have an open ? here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...cs-inside.html

Only problem on the install of the cam was with the cam phaser bolt. You are supposed to use a new one (which I did) and initially torque down to 48 ftlbs and then use a torque angle gauge to go another 90 deg. Well I put two bars in the flywheel and clamped down to keep engine from rotating and that did pretty well. However, when I got to the 90 deg angle torque, my 18 in breaker bar and my arm weren't strong enough. I only got it about 35 deg. Got out the 25 in HF breaker bar and got it the rest of the way. I know you want one smooth sweep on the torque but I couldn't get it; had to pull twice.

Well its all buttoned back up and I'm waiting for my spring removal tool to come in to finish the job, as well as find out if I can just reinstall my harmonic balancer per the post above.

Next up will be to clean and paint the engine. I have three remaining sensors on the block; can these just be removed or should I tape them up and leave them alone?

tiresmokinV8

iTrader: (6)

The sensors I just removed and put some tape over the spots. Those are 2 knock sensors and the crank pos sensor.

deuce4935

iTrader: (2)

Did you want to keep the vvt? You couldve ordered a regular cam and kit that deletes the vvt. As for mounting the engine, by you having had the lt1 engine installed you should be able to use a set of the S&P adapters with the mounts from the lt1's block. I like the look of those newer GTO seats also, keep the pics coming.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I did want to keep VVT. As for mounts, I plan on going w/BRPs kit which also includes a tranny crossmember for my 6 speed, and allows use of the CTS-v oil pan which saves a bit over the mast or holley. Hopefully it will be an easier install.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, while waiting to get my harmonic balancer back on, I got the valve spring compressor off of ebay today. Hoped to start swapping all the valve springs, but alas, I believe they sent me the wrong one. I explicitly told them to send me on for L92 heads; they said they would, but unless I'm really messed up, this won't work.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I used that tool (on 243 heads though) and it works but is a piece. Had to grind out that opening on the end to be able to fit the larger locks of my new springs. A very time-consuming tool to use and in hindsight I would just get a better one.

tiresmokinV8

iTrader: (6)

Is that Tim's Valvespring tool? If not it looks pretty similar. Thats what I used on my 823 heads even with the offset rockers putting it at an angle like that it worked perfectly fine removeing the stock springs and installing the aftermarket ones.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

It is Tims. It just looks like to me it needs to have the opening of the valve spring about 1/4 to 1/2 further out. Was yours this short?

tiresmokinV8

iTrader: (6)

Theres mine. It went about 3/4 across the retainer.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Did you trim the opening or did it come that way? Cuz mine might work if I hogged it out. Tim said yes I have the right one, and I was able to use it to get the original spring out. But the spring hole being as far off (about 1/4 inch) means that if the tool is centered on the retainer, it won't compress over the valve. And if I move it out so it will compress over the spring, then the tool slides as you compress it and interferes with putting the keepers in.

Why can't you buy a tool and it work as its supposed to....

I guess I should try and grind off those edges so the tool won't slide and interfere like tiresmokinv8 has....but I shouldn't have to.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Why can't you buy a tool and it work as its supposed to....

I guess I should try and grind off those edges so the tool won't slide and interfere like tiresmokinv8 has....but I shouldn't have to.[/QUOTE]

Per your comment, sorry but you get what you pay for, buy a quality name brand tool that is made by a reputable tool company and is designed to do what you are wanting it to do. Instead of buying a tool someone is making in their back yard, I know it sucks sometimes to pay exhorbitant amounts of money for a tool you may only use once every 5 years if at that. I know a lot of tools can be made and sometimes they work great and you think the big tool companies are crazy that they charge crazy money for a simple tool. When you pay the good money and it works and makes a job that you thought would be a pain in the *** go real smooth it's all worth it.

tiresmokinV8

iTrader: (6)

Mine came like the way I posted. The opening locked perfectly into the raised ridges of the factory retainer.

tiresmokinV8

iTrader: (6)

Yea with yours only opened wide enough on part of the tool its going to want to pull the retainer too far in to clear the valve. On mine I pushed the retainer/spring towards the outer edge of the tool so when I compressed it it pulled the retainer in and over the valve. Its not going to compress straight down since its a lever.