garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Oh....that looks familiar...
Btw, really happy with my Classic AC even in 100 degree temps this summer. Dont forget, they offer the Kwik compressor bracket at a big discount.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, a little work last few days. Stock a/c system gone, and I'm filling in the firewall. Also installing DSE intermittent delay wipes. Also a bit smaller and cleaner. Yes I drive in the rain, and I love intermittent wipers. Weld, grind, weld, grind. If I can get my son to help me hold the copper heat sink behind the lower hole, maybe I can stop burning thru...

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, per Garys68 recco, I lubed up all the chassis w/Mobil1 synthetic lube and replaced the zerk fittings for now w/allen set screws. Didn't want to screw in very far; thought they were 1/4 28 fine thread--maybe they're not supposed to. In any case, I didn't force them but its sealed for now. This will give add'l clearance for oil pan. If they are not a problem, I'll put the zerk fittings back in. You can see this easily gives 3/8" or so add'l clearance.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Installed the monte carlo DBW pedal today. I used the top inner screw and drilled a new hole for the bottom one. Then welded the other holes shut. Gave up trying to fill all the numerous firewall holes from former screws. Think I'll be JB welding the rest! I need to press on to other install issues; hope to get the AC evaporator mounted tomorrow, and perhaps the engine sitting in the bay!

Btw, do I need to get a whole new tensioner or does that washer come off easily?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

You can buy just a pulley. But what AC bracket are you using? If it's the Kwik bracket, save your money and buy the tensioner/pulley needed for that bracket.
As for the zerk fitting. Mine were 1/4" fine thread but I have seen 1/8" NPT, and lord knows what chinese parts are. Run a tap thru if they dont go in far enough. I'm going to drill tap mine for zerk fittings facing downward.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I am using the Kwik bracket; didn't know I needed a different tensioner/pulley. Really haven't thought much about the accessories w/all the other aspects of the swap in front of it. I'll leave zerks alone for now; its sealed tight enough that I don't expect grease to come out. I don't think I'll put the zerks in another spot. I was thinking about doing that, but as I looked at the tie rod, that is the fattest spot. For as seldom as I have to grease it, it wouldn't be that hard to turn the tires to one side, remove the allen, put in the zerk, grease, and replace. Hoping the oil pan will have enough clearance that I won't have to do that.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Gary--
I just looked at my Kwic package and there is a loose pulley; is the tensioner you're talking about using that pulley? I see one recommended (w/o picture) at pace, and amazon has a good deal on that one right now. If this is the one I need, I'll go ahead and get it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

Thx!

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

With the Kwik bracket, use the exact p/n they reccomend. I bought an aftermarket replacement tensioner/pulley. Turns out the tensioner depth/pulley width was different from stock. Even though spacing was correct, when you swapped pulleys as per Kwik directions, spacing was off.
Like I said earlier....there are a lot of unknown variables in these swaps.

Aceshigh

Subscribed.

You're lucky you got the Monte pedal before they doubled the price after changing the part number late this year.
I think they got wise to the swaps and it was killing the Vette DBW pedal sales probably.

I'm 2/3rd's done with my 442 swap myself and you're basically doing the EXACT same thing I'm doing with the LS / T-56 and AC.
So I'll be watching and sharing anything I've learned as well. Mine is put away for the winter for now......sucks.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ed-manual.html

I think I'm gutting my factory 40 year old harness and putting in another AAW HIghway 22 kit this Spring to be safe.

99VetteFRC

Do the wiring harness your self. Very easy, took me about a week to do mine. No biggie just have to take your time. Then buy the HP Tuners and get rid of the VATS yourself. And after that you can learn to tune yourself, HP Tuners website had many good videos to teach the Beginning tuner how it all works. Thats what I did. my engine now starts on the stand with a Caravan fuel pump module sitting in a 5 gallon bucket!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, some success today, but not as much as hoped. Pulled the driver inner fender to give me room for the rewiring once the engine is in place. Also mounted the Classic Auto Air evaporator, and then mounted (loosely per instructions) the BRP frame mounts. Now the engine is ready to go in. Unfortunately, my HF 1ton engine hoist doesn't have a big enough boom to get the engine far enough in. So, tomorrow I'll have to rent or buy a 2 ton engine hoist, and then sell the HF 1 ton. Almost had the engine in...

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

My daughter and I are going to replace the chassis wiring harness; she is a college chemistry major (smarter than me!) w/lots of attn to detail. I have already had the engine wiring harness redone by AKNOVAMAN (you can see his post of my harness previous in the thread).

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

So close...but still not there. Can't quite get the bolts to go thru the engine/frame mounts. have the passenger side halfway in; can't get the driver's side started. Been pushing, jacking, etc. I just chamfered the end of the driver's bolt but still can't quite get it started. Try again tomorrow.

Need to get this bolted down so I can install the tranny...

Aceshigh

I bolted the frame mounts to the engine mounts, lined up the engine, dropped it in and THEN marked
new holes for my engine's position on the K-member, drilled, and bolted it in.

I was told if you mount your frame mounts then just try to drop the engine in you run into possible alignment issues.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well lots of lifting, prying and beating but the engine mount bolts are secure. Installed the pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch and PP. Missing all the bolts to the bellhousing to the engine, and tranny to the bellhousing. Wonder where I can 16 of these tomorrow?

Btw, is the clutch disk on right? There was no marking on the disk to say which was flywheel side and which was PP side. Looked like the side I have sticking out wouldn't fit in the flywheel side, but wanted your opinions.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Still trying to get my tranny installed; having a few ??s. If any following the thread have installed the T56, appreciate any feedback:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l#post15782811

Maybe I'm just too cautious, but I want to know this is right before I put the tranny in.

Thx!!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, didn't find anything on how everyone else solved the dust shield for the flywheel, so I cut out a couple of sections out of sheet metal that should take care of it. Got a little carried away at the bottom right of the starter hole, so not a completely sealed deal, but I'll take it.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

Goldhawg - my donor car had a couple pieces of plastic that mounted in about those locations. I guess there is some GM part numbers out there for the pieces you just made. BUT - yours look a ton better than the cheap plastic GM put together.

If you really want it, I will try to dig them up and see if there are part numbers on them.

Troy

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I used the plastic covers from GM, I think PN 12558718 and 12561536

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I'll just stick w/these now that they are made. Couldn't find any info earlier that there even were any from GM. Called Scroggin Dickey and they didn't know of any, nor any info on web.

BTW, anybody w/T56 able to answer my slave line question from above? Just want to make sure that connection is secure....

Thx!