Promise Land

Hey everyone, I've been lurking on here for a couple weeks reading as many 240sx swap threads as possible before asking questions. I guess I'll just jump in with a few of my initial questions...

1. I have a mild budget to swap an LS-series combo into my '95 S14. I am thinking of an iron block LQ4 or LQ9 as a starting point. Is there any benefit to one over the other? I plan to find a high mileage engine that will reduce the initial cost, rebuild it, add L92 heads, a cam, and shoot for ~450whp. No reason for 450 other than it sounds good.

2. I have found 3 complete kits with different parts from different companies.
- Sikky Manufacturing (~$1750)
- Fueled Racing Performance (~$2,350)
- Hinson Super Cars (~$4,300)

All companies offer different variations with exhaust, fuel systems, engine/trans mounts, etc. Are any of these worth the retail price, or should I mix and match pieces for the best overall cost? Should I buy certain things and try to fabricate my own other parts (i.e. headers, exhaust)?

3. I plan on the T56 transmission and everyone says the GTO is the one to buy because of the better synchros and gear ratios. I currently have an R32 GT-R rear differential in my S14 with 4.08 gearing. Should I just try to find a T56 of any type if the cost is right and not worry too much on the GTO? I think 1st gear in either is going to be burnout central either way.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

For what its worth, I'm swapping a Z31 to a 5.3L LM7. The Z31 and S13 seem pretty similar. Not sure about the S14.

I made my own mounts pretty easily with the stock mounts and some 1/4" plate. Hooker block hugger headers from summit fit perfectly. Wiring is pretty easy if you have a basic knowledge of automotive electronics. TKO600 fits my tunnel but the shifter is a bit forward from stock. I used a Wilwood 3/4" clutch master with an adapter made for the 240SX (same setup as Z31). Do a google search, it should pop right up. I have a Mcleod 1364 throwout bearing and it seem to be working fine with a stock feel to the clutch pedal. My PCM is going out for a VATS/emissions delete this week. Hopefully I will be up and running within a month.

All said, I'd go for a kit if you can. For me that wasn't an option. I wasted alot of time and money test fitting parts to figure out what works. I chose the LM7 to save on initial cost and ended up buying enough LS1 parts to make it work that it ended up costing more than an LS1 would have to begin with.

Good luck with your swap. Keep us updated.

1fastkingcab

your distance from he back of your block to your shifter location will most likely dictate your trans selection. and 98-02 F body T56 has a shifter that drops in the top of the housing much like a Z31's shifter. the GTO's and CTS-V's use a bumped back shifter mounted on linkage that places the shifter more rearward behind the trans. you most likely want the engine as far back a possible. F body is probably the way to go.

I have a 94 Fbody t56 in my Z32, My factory rear was a H230VLSD with the 4.09 ratio it's like having gears in a older car but 6th is so tall cruising 80-90mph is no problem.


Oh and Skinny is right around the corner form me and there kit is well worth it. and looks top notch in person. I don't see any need to spend more on those other kits unless there are serious performance advantages AND you are going to compete and be able to take advantage of those gains.

530sx

iTrader: (2)

really I don't know if anyone can give you solid answers, most of your questions relate to personnal preference. but I'll give my opinions from my s14 swap experience if it helps you
1. If all your doing is adding heads, and a cam and some other bolt ons, I wouldn't bother with a higher mileage motor, I got my L33 with 33k for $800. you'll spend more on a rebuild vs. paying the small extra for a lower mileage motor IMO.
2. I'm sure you are aware of the 240 v8 forums but just in case you aren't
http://silviav8forums.com/forum/index.php
check the sponsors, there is also Otto Factory and Daft (if you're not in a rush for your parts) mix and match if you want or go all the same, that's purely your preference and playing with a calculator to see which is best for you.
3. I think going GTO T56 is nice, but I'm not sure how much of a gain you really get for the extra money, I guess it just depends how important it is to you.. also keep in mind they typically are more expensive to rebuild if it should happen to need it.
in terms of budget, I can tell you all the little nuassances really added up, as it currently stands I'm almost $1k over what I thought it was going to cost, and I'm not completey done yet hoses, fluids, clamps, connectors, fittings, sensors....they add up very quick.

Cunningham

iTrader: (1)

If you look further into the Sikky kit i believe it is more costly than the Fueled kit for everything.

jvr43kgt2

Im in the same boat right now with the OP... as far as the kits i have a 95 S14 and an LM7

I have been looking at all of the companies that make "drop in" kits, as opposed to making my own. I dont want to cut up my sub frame or use a cut up subframe and I like the sikky kit but at over 1700...im sure its the sweetest looking stuff out there but thats the cost of a built (mildly)T56.

I dont know maybee im just cheap...lol

devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

If you just want a drop in kit, Sikky or Fueled is the way to go. Anyone who uses them has nothing but good things to say, Hinson is hit or miss, and at all cost don't use Daft!

For your build, the LQ9 is a little more expensive, but the prefered engine if your going to use the l92 heads etc... I would def. set down and add up all the little cost and figure out where you want to be on the build. If time is not an issue you can find good deals on engine parts if you look around.

Installing it there isn't a lot of ways to cut corners and save money other than doing your own wiring, fuel system, and clutch lines. If you have the time and skills mounts can be done, but if you can afford one of the kits above I would do that.

OceanStateTuning

iTrader: (3)

I used the Sikky kit for a buddy, Went in pretty good. I did not like there headers - they fit good but the angle them up a little bit, if they angled them straight back it would of been so much easier doing the exhaust. When using there headers and there trans cross member well the best way to do it is to cut and weld a lot lol. Anyway the engine did go right in and the headers cleared everything.

laurentj23

iTrader: (27)

Do you know anyone that used the fueled performance basic kit with hooker header?. They only have 13/8 instead of 1/78. Plus hooker made some mad exhaust sytem.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Why not use the Holley/Hooker mounts? That way you know the headers will work.

Andrew

laurentj23

iTrader: (27)

I was going to but I got a good deal on the morose oilpan. And from what I've heard, the holley mount doesn't fit well with the oil pan.

StorminMatt

I realize this is an old thread. But if you are referring to the Moroso 20146 oil pan, it fits just fine with the Hooker mounts.