Russell quick disconnect fittings
06-16-2011, 05:20 PM
#81
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i have been away from the forum a little while and got back on today and this was the first topic i looked at.after reading the issues with these fittings.i ran back to my shop to get the new ones i have still in the blister packs. i inserted the male 640940 fitting into the 640853 fitting all the way gave it a tug and guess what.it can right back out.i did it per instructions it was a 50 50 mix of lock and no lock.after fiddling with the plastic retainer it did work a little better.it did seem to work better with the retainer in the female fitting,but it took very very very little to disengage.its odd they want the retainer to be on the male side of the fitting for proper fit per instuctions,but they shipped mine with the retainer in the female fitting. thanks to Mr. McGraw for the heads up and a fix for these before these these were installed.
06-18-2011, 10:21 AM
#84
Thank you for this valuable information! Saved me $15, and probably my car. Looks like I'll be avoiding Russell & Edelbrock since they refuse to investigate the problem. I guess they have too much business elsewhere to care about this.
06-18-2011, 02:25 PM
#85
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Nope, read my follow -up post on their new design fitting. I have installed a few of them this week and they are just what the doctor ordered!
After a miss-step, Edelbrock stepped up to the plate and did what was right.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...sconnects.html
Regards, John McGraw
After a miss-step, Edelbrock stepped up to the plate and did what was right.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...sconnects.html
Regards, John McGraw
07-07-2011, 10:45 AM
#87
I hear this part from napa part number. 730-4927 napa 3/8 quick disconnect fitting
fixes the problem http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=5549.0
fixes the problem http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=5549.0
John, what's your opinion on replacing the plastic clip with the NAPA (OEM style) metal one?
Andy1
07-07-2011, 12:13 PM
#88
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I am disappointed that they will not recall those fittings. I have 3 of them purchased for my swap and 2 of them can be pulled off by pulling on them. They should be recalled before someone burns their car to the ground.
07-07-2011, 01:31 PM
#89
I had one pop off about 6 months ago, puked fuel on the hot tail pipes....called Russell thinking they would want to step up before a car is burned to the ground (or worse). They blew me off...
Where is Vic Edelbrock w/ his ads "the quality goes in before my name goes on"??????
I may buy the replacement Russell fuel line fittings, but guess how much Edelbrock stuff I will ever buy in the future
Vic...I'm calling you out!!!!!!!
Where is Vic Edelbrock w/ his ads "the quality goes in before my name goes on"??????
I may buy the replacement Russell fuel line fittings, but guess how much Edelbrock stuff I will ever buy in the future
Vic...I'm calling you out!!!!!!!
09-29-2011, 05:16 PM
#91
Hey John,
I had hell finding these for a decent price and none of the distributors who had a fair price had less than a $100 minimum order. I ended up using "Convert-A-Flare" nuts and sleeves with a standard JIC union for a whopping total of $3.84 per unit. You can find this stuff at Discount Hydraulic Hose, just look for #418, #419, and the JIC fitting of your choice. I googled around and found some instructions for assembling them, but the PDF is too large to post here...
I had hell finding these for a decent price and none of the distributors who had a fair price had less than a $100 minimum order. I ended up using "Convert-A-Flare" nuts and sleeves with a standard JIC union for a whopping total of $3.84 per unit. You can find this stuff at Discount Hydraulic Hose, just look for #418, #419, and the JIC fitting of your choice. I googled around and found some instructions for assembling them, but the PDF is too large to post here...
Link to Convert-A-Flare instructions:
http://pressureconnections.com/custo...Flare_nuts.pdf
And also, here's the link to the correct section on Russell's site for the "new" parts. The other links did not go to the proper section and part numbers:
http://russellperformance.com/mc/ada...fuel-efi.shtml
If ANYONE has ANY idea on how to hook up the outlet side of the vette regulator/filter (WIX 33737) on a conversion car in which I do not have the stock lines, please let me know.
Last edited by 66 BADBOY; 09-29-2011 at 05:22 PM.
09-29-2011, 07:07 PM
#92
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I do not recall what they are called but summit carries a piece that is a short section of tube with the push lock on one side and a -6 AN fitting on the other. That is what I used. I would get with their website chat support and they can find it for you.
I used one of those for the outlet and another adapter from summit to attach the -6 to some 3/8ths alum hardline.
If you want to use other types of hose doorman makes a piece of tube with the push lock on each side that you can buy and use rubber line and hose clamps.
I used one of those for the outlet and another adapter from summit to attach the -6 to some 3/8ths alum hardline.
If you want to use other types of hose doorman makes a piece of tube with the push lock on each side that you can buy and use rubber line and hose clamps.
09-29-2011, 07:18 PM
#93
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I do not recall what they are called but summit carries a piece that is a short section of tube with the push lock on one side and a -6 AN fitting on the other. That is what I used. I would get with their website chat support and they can find it for you.
I used one of those for the outlet and another adapter from summit to attach the -6 to some 3/8ths alum hardline.
If you want to use other types of hose doorman makes a piece of tube with the push lock on each side that you can buy and use rubber line and hose clamps.
I used one of those for the outlet and another adapter from summit to attach the -6 to some 3/8ths alum hardline.
If you want to use other types of hose doorman makes a piece of tube with the push lock on each side that you can buy and use rubber line and hose clamps.
I think the part number is russell rus-640940
I also recently picked up the new russeell quick connect in black - they are easily available at most places now and in the new russell catalog 644123 - it's a very nice looking part and i'm excited to replace my ticking time bomb of the plastic piece
04-07-2014, 11:44 AM
#95
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A bit of a necro-bump. But I hope it serves as a good reminder. Get those fittings off of your cars.
To Hell And Back For a $2 Part - http://thedamntrueexperiment.blogspo...or-2-part.html
To Hell And Back For a $2 Part - http://thedamntrueexperiment.blogspo...or-2-part.html
04-08-2014, 07:47 AM
#96
According to Damn True's link in his post (post #95), using a quick disconnect at the OEM fuel rail is not recommended.
However the new Russel fittings (644110 & 644120) are listed as quick disconnect fittings.
Furthermore, some other posts in this thread state to use 640940 at the fuel rail. This is also a Quick disconnect fitting.
So what is the definitive answer on what connections to use at the Regulator and the Fuel rail? Can we use quick disconnect fittings?
I will say the following; If you are running an LS engine in any form of competitive environment or if you’ve swapped an LS engine into an older car or hot-rod I cannot urge you strongly enough to avoid any form of quick-disconnect union between the chassis fuel lines and the fuel distribution manifold
Furthermore, some other posts in this thread state to use 640940 at the fuel rail. This is also a Quick disconnect fitting.
So what is the definitive answer on what connections to use at the Regulator and the Fuel rail? Can we use quick disconnect fittings?
Last edited by Corey R.; 04-09-2014 at 01:43 PM.
01-14-2015, 05:37 PM
#97
TECH Senior Member
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I wanted to give a quick update to this thread, for anyone that is searching.
I too heard all sorts of terrible things about the older Russell fittings, and I wasn't going to use them. However, to be fair, Russell did redesign these fittings and I got some new ones. Here they are:
They have a screw on locking back that is very well engineered and I can't see how it can come off. It certainly isn't a "quick disconnect" since it required two wrenches to take it apart.
Also, for those people that don't want to give money to Russell (Edelbrock) for their past sins, Earl's now also makes a very nice fitting. It has a positive retention clip that can be quickly removed, but it locks the fitting firmly in place. To be clear, inside this fitting are 4 retention clips that prevent the filling from coming off, and the external clip is there for redundancy. It is a very nice design.
However, it only comes in 3/8" to AN6 and 3/8" to AN8, there is no 5/16" version. So it will work on the fuel rail fittings and on the inlet of the Corvette filter/regulator, bot not on the return line. It also requires a quick disconnect tool to remove.
It is Earl's PN AT991966ERL for the 3/8" to AN6.
Hope this helps.
Andrew
I too heard all sorts of terrible things about the older Russell fittings, and I wasn't going to use them. However, to be fair, Russell did redesign these fittings and I got some new ones. Here they are:
They have a screw on locking back that is very well engineered and I can't see how it can come off. It certainly isn't a "quick disconnect" since it required two wrenches to take it apart.
Also, for those people that don't want to give money to Russell (Edelbrock) for their past sins, Earl's now also makes a very nice fitting. It has a positive retention clip that can be quickly removed, but it locks the fitting firmly in place. To be clear, inside this fitting are 4 retention clips that prevent the filling from coming off, and the external clip is there for redundancy. It is a very nice design.
However, it only comes in 3/8" to AN6 and 3/8" to AN8, there is no 5/16" version. So it will work on the fuel rail fittings and on the inlet of the Corvette filter/regulator, bot not on the return line. It also requires a quick disconnect tool to remove.
It is Earl's PN AT991966ERL for the 3/8" to AN6.
Hope this helps.
Andrew
