JetMech442

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I've been wanting to do this swap ever since my buddy let me drive his built '95 T/A. The original engine/trans were replace by a rocket 350 before I bought it, so the car was really just a 16.3 second slug with drum brakes.

After a lot of motivation watching you guys get it done, it's my turn. Thanks to everyone who's already done this and posted great results and pics. I hope to contribute as much as I've taken from this site.

Now, on with it. The 455 Solid Roller Cam, forged internals, headers..blah blah blah is coming out. And, thanks to my wife for constructively asking if I was going to remain the neighborhood slush-box king, the 2004R is being replaced by a '98 Camaro T-56.

The LQ9 has 30k on it and I scooped it up from Bow Auto NH for $2200. It's getting a TSP 228R 114LSA cam, Edelbrock Stepped LongTube Headers, and LS6 intake (thanks Formula_LS1).

The trans will get the Drill Mod and a Stage 2+ SPEC Clutch.

Please feel free to comment/make suggestions as I go along-my attention seems to drop the more hours I work on something.

garys 68

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I just finished my 72 442, had the front end aligned today and puy about 50 miles on it.
Good luck with your build.

chuckd71

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That's a pretty sweet looking car.

psiconversion

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Are you converting from the drive by wire to drive by cable?

JetMech442

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The engine came with the throttle pedal and TCM so I'm going to stick with that. This wasn't an issue until I decided I HAD to have an LS6 intake. I guess I've always wanted an Ls motor and it's just not the same without the intake. That being said, the pedal came out of the Escalade/Freightliner. It's definitely got an appointment with the angle grinder and welder coming up soon.

garys 68

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Congrats, you the the massive adjustable pedal assembly. Not sure you can do much with it. You might want to find a non adjustable one, you'll only have to shorten it a couple inches. I think they're only about $100 if you need to buy a new one.
here's a pic of mine.

JetMech442

iTrader: (1)

Any chance of a closeup on that pedal? I cut the linkage off at the base and would like to try fabbing up a pedal to palce it where I want it. I've had this discussion at work with some serious gearheads-but does anyone have any advice on where to place the accel pedal in relation to the brake for heal-toe shifting.

Current thought was to place it just an inch or so behind the brake, so when you lay into the brakes, the accel pedal will be there.

I'll post pics of what I cut up tomorrow when the camera battery recharges.

JetMech442

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I'm a few weeks behind on the thread compared to the build, I'll try and catch up.

The Big Block is out and the LQ9 has been test fit. I swapped the TSP 228R cam in and bolted up the AutoKraft oil pan. The pan looks good and fit great. I'm also using the Edlebrock Adapter Plates with Energy Suspension "Short and Wide" frame perches.

I didn't realize the Edelbrock mounts required the "Tall and Narrow" frame perches-since the directions give directions on how to identify you style and don't explicitly call out the tall ones.

If you use the short frame perches, the engine will sit about 2.5 inches inside the firewall. You can either hack out the firewall like I did, or question whether something is wrong and read the directions again.

We made some custom mount adapters and brought the engine a little forward so that the engine wouldn't twist into the firewall too much.

For now, the throttle pedal is going to be a hacked up version of the monstrosity that came from the escalade.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

There's your problem....I swapped out the Olds frame mounts for a SBC chevelle frame mounts. Short/wide worked fine for that.
I'll be back in town later today and get a pic of my pedal.

JetMech442

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I made more progress on the firewall/transtunnel. I had to step back a piece of the firewall sot he LS6 intake would clear.-the brake booster fitting juts out a little bit. I also finalized the clutch bracket.

The clutch pedal kit was bought off ebay-the brake pin had to be drilled out and the clutch axle is about an inch too long, so it had to be modified. I made an adjustable stop so I don't over travel the master cylinder, and added a clutch rod relocation bracket so that the rod travels straight into the bore when the clutch is depressed.

I also did the drill mod and bled the system. A huge thanks to firechicken76 for the write up, it took me less than an hour to have it back together. The link is here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...d-resluts.html

garys 68

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Just a heads up sincve you've got the front apart.
My inner tie rod ends barely hit the CTS V oil pan. Contact with the grease fittings in place makes it much worse. Get 1/4 x 20 allen head plugs and fit them in the original holes. Drill and tap the bottoms of the tie rods for new fittings.
Oh and if you dont know about the 96 jeep grand cherokee steering box swap, do a search, well worth the time.

JetMech442

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Hi Gary,
Are you saying I should plug the grease fittings and tap a new hole in the bottom like the outer ones?

I wish I had seen your build before I got to the mounts-wou'vesaved me a lot of time. -Nice build btw. That paint on the Olds is killer.

And, I the gear box I put in was a "fast ratio" (2.5 lock to lock), out of a GTO. Would you say that there is significant difference in steering between mine and the Jeeps? Thanks man.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Yep, the inner tie rods have grease fittings pointing toward the center of the car. Thet's the first thing to contact the pan. Either drilling/tapping the back or bottom will solve that.
The jeep box is a little under 3 turns, about the same. It really makes the car much nicer to drive than the pld 5-6 turn olds box.

JetMech442

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Couldn't help myself. I thought I had placed the engine far enough back that they wouldn't contact. Guess I'm going to have to drill/tap them.

JetMech442

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2 Issues with Edelbrocks "Conversion" headers. The centerline of the header collectors is at least 1.5 inches outboard from the originals. So I had to cut up the American Flowmaster system, push back the H pipe and cut up the cross member. 2nd is the they provide a 3.5 to 3'' collector adapter with the Dnut gasket system. I have not found a 3.5 to 2.5'' adapter with the Dnut, so I got a flowmaster 3-2.5 venturi from Jegs.

I put the electric cutouts after the Hpipe, since they wouldn't fit with the venturis. I'm hoping it will still be plenty loud.

3rd Issue with the Edelbrocks is that they contact the oil cooler bypass plate on the oil filter adapter on the Autokraft pan. I ground down the bypass and gained maybe 1/2 mm. I certainly do not want the header pipes conducting heat directly to the oil supply passage for the whole engine.

JetMech442

iTrader: (1)

I've made quite a bit of progress. The drivers side header had to be dimpled to clear the oil bypass port-really aggravating. Bent/flared bake line to the front and rear brakes. Cut off the pulley next to the alternator and am working on a bracket to relocate it.

Still working on a waterpump solution. The water outlet the contacts drive by wire when mounted on the LS6 intake. Since there is only bottle pressure the (approx 15psi), it is not a high stress area. I might plug the top and create a port similar to the vette pump. I'll post pics when I get it done. I just don't want to spend 260 bucks for a new waterpump.

JetMech442

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Nevermind about modding my truck pump. The design was based on using standard size aluminum tubing. !.75 OD and 1.25 ID w/ .25 walls-I couldn't find this tube and it would have been nearly a hundred dollars to have a solid rod machined.

I bought the 97 vette pump from NAPA and spaced the pulley and tensioner out 3/4 inch. Done and Done. 125 for the pump, 20 for the pulley. I'll post pics soon.

JetMech442

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I got the driveshaft made at Suburban Drivelines here in Chicago, thye built me the same one Denny Driveshafts was going to build me, but for 200 less.

As for the AutoKraft Oil Pan, the correct filter is for a 2007+ truck (FRAM number PH10060). Took me three trips and a call to AutoKraft to figure that one out.

I also made a pulley relocation bracket for use with the LS6 intake. I just took a 1/8 steel plate, and a solid 1'' diameter rod. But the rod to about 3/4'' and drilled/tapped it. I put the bolt in it and welded it together. I'll keep an eye on it for fatigue failure and any signs of NVH issues(pulley instability etc).

I mounted the ECM and TCM under the driverside fenderwell(to the left of the brake booster as viewed from the driver.) I just made a bracket and used some rubber between the bolts to dampen out vibrations transmitted to the ECM.

I did quite a bit of searching for a way to adapt my olds steering box to the LS pump. A lot of solutions involve metric to an adapter and new lines and such. Then I found on here someone used LEE Manufacturing. He sells an aluminum insert that goes into the LS pump(Pressure side). cost me 15 bucks and it came with an insert tool. Done and Done.

garys 68

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You might want to consider an upgrade to a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box. It's a direct replacement and has a 12:1 ratio, instead of the Olds 16:1. Mine feels like a sports car now insread of a bus.

OutlawDrifter

iTrader: (9)

great looking car! should be a great driver when you're done.