ranger6

There is a site that will save a lot of money for those on a tight budget.
It's BOWAUTO parts. I found it on EBAY. A search will turn up the store and it's
current inventory. I've purchased a 2004 5.3 with 120K miles, all accessories,(starter ,A/C compressor, The ECU, Harness, TAK with pedal and MAF were included. for $850.00
This is an unbeatable deal. Shipping to Texas was $280.00 (Bow Auto is in New Hampshire.) The 6 month warrantee is an added bonus.
The main objective for me was to make a cost effective Swap.
Fuel pump (in-tank) AC Delco,new: $53.00 (found on Ebay.) .375" aluminum fuel line for 25' with the needed fittings was $51.00
Computer tune to remove VATS, emissions to run the TH350 was $75.00.
Torque converter nose-cone support adapter was 30.00 (Hughes LS1 trans spacer.) 8000pulse VSS - from Dakota digital was $49.00 (this is necessary for the ECU to acquire vehicle motion, yet the module allowed use of my speedometer cable, sort of an intermediate modern to "old school" item.
The hardest part was I've encountered is finding the proper engine bracket heights. I wanted to use the stock exhaust manifolds. Finding a height that cleared the steering box and the Sway-bar was tough, but keeping the engine level side-to-side and front to rear while having the necessary hood clearance took a solid day. I bought a set of engine bracket "swap" relocators off Ebay for $30.00. Unsure of the correct brackets to buy I needed to heavily modify the purchaced-brackets to meet the above criteria. I would have been better off fabricating my own. If using a truck set-up as I did, expect to notch the Front cross-member to clear the A/C compressor then, box weld to maintain the design integrity. I will including some pictures of my progress. I have 4 days into the swap and am waiting on the fuel system parts so I can get the fuel tank plumbed and modified and waiting to receive the ECU from the programmer. Total dollars expended = $1350.00
I've yet to fire the car up and will undoubtably spend more but it shouldn't be much.
R6.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

Good Job! Keep us posted.

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

NICE!

This is awesome build, great job.

Check out the link in my signature.
I basically have the IDENTICAL nova to yours....

Adam

ranger6

Been awhile since i've posted. I haven't had much time to work on the car due to work hours being basically nonstop... I did however get the engine mount in the car on the 2nd of June. Took 2 hours of head scratching and cussing though. I welded in the motor brackets last month, this would come back to haunt me. To get the motor in and stop it from making contact with: Drivers side motor mount sat on the motor bracket and the transmission diptube made contact with the firewall. The bolt extending from the rear of the passenger head made firewall contact and the "L" shpaed whatever was making contact with the wiper motor. After removing the passenger side motor mount and removing the above "contact items" the motor settled in nicely. Someone should have wriiten those headaches in the "Putting a 2004 5.3 vortec into your 1972 Nova Handbook!" I'm keeping notes and will post them once the car is running to save others from wasting time. Next project is to drop the fuel tank and cut/install the AC Delco 'in-tank' fuel pump on Monday. The car will only lack wiring the power in, Drilling and securing the transmission mount in it's new location, shortening and welding the driveshaft then fabricating the kick-down switch to the gas pedal.
R6.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Famous last words that most of us have uttered and seldom come true haha. Nice job.

Jimbo1367

That pass. side engine mount looks scary. Why did you notch the subframe so much? Looks like a real nice car. I am digging the color. LeMans Blue or Marina Blue?

ranger6

I know it's been a LOOOOOOng while but the car is road worthy.
My wife is once again happy. I went through 3 engine harnesses to get the car running. I built the first one and the car ran with it but it looked rough. The second 'Ebay' harness was a joke, the third came from a reputable manufacturer but failed to make the car run. Finally found the culprit... The constant 12 volt feed to the Ignition relay was wired into the Fuel pump relay instead and the ground tree (place where several ground wired joined at a common ground) was not secure. Two wires in the harness kept me down for months. Word to the wise, Test each wire in your harness for continuity no matter how much you paid for your harness!!! A/C and Disc brakes are next... then on to my 1969 Chevelle 6.0/4L80E project.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

This is the reason why I did my own harness. I read so many threads where someone a harness and then had to go though it. I decided to do it myself. If your going to have to go through it might as well, no?

Jimbo1367

Ranger,
Sounds like you got a great deal on the dropout from BowAuto. I really like the car in blue. What color is that? Any chance on more pics and maybe a running walk around or a good take off video?

thanks,
Jim