Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

does this A-body engine position look right?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-11-2011, 09:21 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
agwrangler2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default does this A-body engine position look right?

Put LS1 and t-56 in my 1964 Chevelle this weekend, and had a few issues.
Just wondering if anyone can comment on the forward/backward placement-the body is currently off and I'm hoping to avoid firewall clearance issues.

I do have steering linkage-oil pan clearance issues, so i think I may be on the right track!
Any insight would be appreciated!



Old 07-11-2011, 12:44 PM
  #2  
Staging Lane
 
Altitude 65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mile High City
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What pan is that? My LS3 in my 65 seems like it is a little bit further forward of where yours is and I've got less than 2" to the firewall.
Attached Thumbnails does this A-body engine position look right?-270.jpg   does this A-body engine position look right?-273.jpg  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:01 PM
  #3  
TECH Apprentice
 
GNCLONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Placement looks good. Mine is sort of like that. Yep. in a tight turn I scratch the oil pan Ha!

Firewall was never an issue for me - A/C box is, but not firewall.

I'm using the truck accessories and the P/S pulley is really close to the steering box, but it is all good.
Old 07-11-2011, 02:12 PM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
agwrangler2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

F-body pan, unmodified......
Incidentally, (or not), the mount plates I think were originally for a Nova application, and we ended up flipping the "frame perches" to get it where it is now. This is most noticeable in the second pic i think.

So maybe I can add a spacer plate to gain some clearance on the steering components?
Old 07-11-2011, 06:16 PM
  #5  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (12)
 
bczee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

There is not right or wrong place place the engine. Most well end up placing it in one location for one or more reason..


This being the 1) type of oil pan, 2) Front access and 3) Steering.

You can space the frame stands up some. But watch out for the through bolt.. cause rasing the frame stand changes the hold location, pushing them inwards. Also Fireway and Trans tunnel clearance might come into play. (Its the little things that get you).

Some want to move the engine as far back as possible for wieght distribution, other move it forward or front access or OEM AC compressor.

Keep in mind that Headers come into play sometime. so mix and matching can be a problem. Keeping with the same manufactor of the plates/mouts and header well cause less problems.

IMO, what every works out for your application and hardware is what is best..
Old 07-11-2011, 06:57 PM
  #6  
TECH Apprentice
 
GNCLONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bczee
There is not right or wrong place place the engine. Most well end up placing it in one location for one or more reason..
bczee is right. I found that I had few choices as far as location. 3 dimensions/3 planes. I wanted it in the center of the car, I wanted low as possible w/o steering issues and I went back as far as I could before I got to the A/C box.

Then I "adjusted" my passenger header with a framing hammer.
Old 07-11-2011, 07:08 PM
  #7  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
gjestico's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver area, West coast Canada
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

I have a 67 chevelle with a 6.0L. I had to cut about 1" off the front of the f-body pan sump to clear the crossmember. Your engine looks like its a good 3-4 inches further back than mine. I have about 2" from the back of the right cylinder head to the firewall.
I suggest you get the body back on the frame before you set the engine location in stone.
Old 07-12-2011, 01:23 AM
  #8  
Staging Lane
 
Rat Chevelle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hermosillo, Sonora, Mexico
Posts: 72
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I had linkage problems and decided to make these mounts (the lower ones) and then add .750" spacers cut from 1/2" pipe with longer bolts.
Steering problems gone! the headers I am using (pacesetters for a 4th gen Camaro) fit just right and as a plus I can use the truck AC mounting bracket if I only remove the mounting ear further back of the mount.
If you notice it keeps the engine at the same lenghtwise location as the "S&P style" mounts pictured above.
I am using a truck oil pan that has been notched in the sump.
Attached Thumbnails does this A-body engine position look right?-0102111530a.jpg  
Old 07-12-2011, 03:58 AM
  #9  
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
 
speedtigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 8,826
Received 50 Likes on 32 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by agwrangler2001
Put LS1 and t-56 in my 1964 Chevelle this weekend, and had a few issues.
Just wondering if anyone can comment on the forward/backward placement-the body is currently off and I'm hoping to avoid firewall clearance issues.
Looks like you have the motor mount frame stands in backwards. But, if everything works for you then no worries. Can you get your starter on the motor that way?
Old 07-12-2011, 04:58 AM
  #10  
Launching!
 
downset71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=Rat Chevelle;15141976]I had linkage problems and decided to make these mounts (the lower ones) and then add .750" spacers cut from 1/2" pipe with longer bolts.
Steering problems gone! the headers I am using (pacesetters for a 4th gen Camaro) fit just right and as a plus I can use the truck AC mounting bracket if I only remove the mounting ear further back of the mount.
If you notice it keeps the engine at the same lenghtwise location as the "S&P style" mounts pictured above.
I am using a truck oil pan that has been notched in the sump.[/QUOTE

which hangs lower, the bottom of the pacesetters or the flat bottom of oilpan? thanx in advance

Last edited by downset71; 07-12-2011 at 04:59 AM. Reason: change
Old 07-12-2011, 09:18 AM
  #11  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
agwrangler2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by speedtigger
Looks like you have the motor mount frame stands in backwards. But, if everything works for you then no worries. Can you get your starter on the motor that way?
Yes, we reversed them after the first attempt, which resulted in major crossmember-oil pan interference.
Don't have a starter yet, but there looks to be plenty of room there.

I'm thinking the suggestion from gjestico should be taken to heart.....I may keep my current set up until I can verify I won't have major firewall clearance issues...
Old 07-12-2011, 10:12 AM
  #12  
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
 
oldngray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 272
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by bczee
There is not right or wrong place place the engine. Most well end up placing it in one location for one or more reason..


This being the 1) type of oil pan, 2) Front access and 3) Steering.

You can space the frame stands up some. But watch out for the through bolt.. cause rasing the frame stand changes the hold location, pushing them inwards. Also Fireway and Trans tunnel clearance might come into play. (Its the little things that get you).

Some want to move the engine as far back as possible for wieght distribution, other move it forward or front access or OEM AC compressor.

Keep in mind that Headers come into play sometime. so mix and matching can be a problem. Keeping with the same manufactor of the plates/mouts and header well cause less problems.

IMO, what every works out for your application and hardware is what is best..
X2 on that, everyone has a different fit situation, if it is where you need it and it fits, you got it....
Old 07-12-2011, 10:52 AM
  #13  
TECH Apprentice
 
GNCLONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I've got the Pacesetter F body ones too, the truck pan is lower than the headers.

If the body is nearby, measure the distance from a body bushing hole or some other point-of-reference
Old 07-12-2011, 11:26 AM
  #14  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
agwrangler2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by GNCLONE
I've got the Pacesetter F body ones too, the truck pan is lower than the headers.

If the body is nearby, measure the distance from a body bushing hole or some other point-of-reference
Aah...good idea! I'll check that this evening.
Old 07-12-2011, 11:33 AM
  #15  
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
 
speedtigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 8,826
Received 50 Likes on 32 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by agwrangler2001
Yes, we reversed them after the first attempt, which resulted in major crossmember-oil pan interference.
Don't have a starter yet, but there looks to be plenty of room there.

I'm thinking the suggestion from gjestico should be taken to heart.....I may keep my current set up until I can verify I won't have major firewall clearance issues...
I think 64-65s are different than the other years when it comes to sorting out the motor mounts. I tried to use the Edelbrock adapter system with the Chevelle frame stands and ended up making custom stands to get the motor where I wanted it with the Doug's headers.
Old 07-23-2011, 09:54 PM
  #16  
TECH Apprentice
 
FatfreeGTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I just started fitting my engine into my 66 GTO today and I have a similar frame perch as you except mine I put infront of the crossmember. I thought about doing what you did on the back to gain clearance on the steering linkage but... You say you don't have the body on yet? If that is the case I don't think it is going to fit for you. Mine similarly mounted but with the perch in front of the crossmember leaves about 2 3/8" between the back of the passenger side head and the firewall. I'm just guessing here but you would have to be a solid 6" rearward of where I am leaving you about 3 1/2" into your firewall. I would investigate that with some measuring of your body and the body mount locations before you go any further.. Hope this helps.

I did put a temporary 1/4" spacer under the pearch to raise things up to help clear the tie rods for now while I finish fitting the trans headers etc...



Quick Reply: does this A-body engine position look right?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:17 PM.