SIKHS 5

finally got my front clip back on today... and it left me scratching my head thinking huh?

i went the LH8, BRP, LQ4/4L80E route and it looks like i will be needing extra hood clearance.



i wanted to keep my car subtle(since its a dd 4 door)

the point where it looks like i need the most clearance is where it says "vortec" above the intake manifold[the rest looks like it mighttt clear - are there any hood bulges i could go with(weld in)...

or should i just spring for a 4"+ cowl?

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

The supplied angles leave a lot to be desired about clearance. You need a side shot which will only tell you how high above the fenders the engine sits. I have never seen a hood that didn't have at least a bit of crown which means you probably have more room than you think.

My Thunderbird is close... I mean close enough that I have less than 3/4 inch between the top of the throttle body (car intake) and the bottom of the insulation under the hood! The engine is also as low as it can be since I can't (won't) realistically move the steering rack that is under the oil pan. If I showed you a picture from the side you would say "no way that is going to work" because it sticks up a couple of inches past the fenders but the hood bows up enough to allow everything to clear.

My suggestion: put the hood on and get some play dough. Place the play dough on top of the highest point and SLOWLY close the hood. Open the hood and measure, this is your clearance.

If clearance is a problem skip modifying the hood, switch to a car intake and immediately gain 5 inches. Long live the sleeper!

SIKHS 5

thanks for the feedback!! ill def have to try on the stock hood tomorrow. hopefully its real close and i can go with a 2" cowl over a 4" or something crazy(more subtle )

ill let you guys know how bad it is + more pics.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Remove the cover, it's just cosmetic. Then shave off some of the "junk" on the intake. That should provide a little extra clearance.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

+1 on removing the cover.. then grind down the ribs, sand and paint the intake.

But with the way BRP mounts the engine due to the LH8 pan deeper sump. It will sit a bit high and well always give a bit of a problem if still using the truck Intakes..

How about getting a LS1 intake, they are pretty cheap or free. Problem solved....

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Is the trans crossmember bolted up? Seems to be a little high in the front

Can always swap to a car styled intake for more clearance

Lil'John

You can trim on the truck cover and get it VERY low. If you look at the inside of the truck cover, you will see it has "legs". You can cut the legs off, trim around the intake and alternator for clearance, "glue" washers, and then bolt it on.

I did the above on one of my conversions and it turned out okay. Still wasn't low enough for my hood but looked okay. I can't seem to find pictures of it at this time.

flywheel

iTrader: (2)

That's the exact set up i have in my 71 and my intake cover just rubs slightly on my cowl hood (non functionalble). I also have a 66 with the goodmark 2" cowl hood and just went and check it, that wont clear the inside bracing on it.. It would have to be trimmed on the inside before installing. Not a big deal if you don't have it painted already. If I knew how to post ya a pix I give one of my 66 hood.....
Rick

flywheel

iTrader: (2)

Did you have to raise the tranny tunnel? I did in my 71. Those BRP mounts sit the engine higher than most. I also had to add a deflector plate on my crossmember to protect the oil pan. The lh8 pan hangs under it and Ive already scraped it several times. I hope you have checked your drive shaft angle. That's why I had to cut my tunnel.
Rick

Kenova

iTrader: (4)

Loose the truck oil pan and drop the engine.
Why do people continue to use truck oil pans for these swaps? It's not like the problems have never been documented.

Ken