rp0029

iTrader: (1)

In another post I detailed that my dynatech headers hang far too low in my 68 Camaro (lq4). I have the swaptech plates mounted 1" rearward, the tall/narrow frame mounts, and 2142 motor mounts.

I would like to raise the engine an inch or so. Instead of thicker adapter plates, would it be really stupid to use thick grade 8 washers to try to get the engine up more? What if I made a metal spacer similar to the backing plate with the energy suspension mounts, only thicker?

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

The engine doesnt torque that hard

Space it up and dont worry about it

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

the tall/narrow and short/wide have the same overall height. but, each has a taller part than the other. i used the tall piece of each and raised the motor about 1" in my chevelle. since the overall height of the mount combo is more, it also widened the base of the triangle (not sure how to put it into words). because of this, i had to redrill the holes higher up the frame as well. not a big deal and i actually welded mine on.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Check out bandit's thread. He made custom plates to raise his engine but later went a different direction because of Dougs header interference. Maybe they'll work with dynatechs.

I think tall stands are wide and short stands are narrow.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...00-6-0vvt.html

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

correct. i cut the stand down the middle and narrowed in order to use the taller engine mount with it. i cant see any other way of making it look factory. washers, thick plates, etc... will all look out of place imho. and the stands were 15 bucks shipped to my door via ebay.

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

I ordered the tall 69 mounts which are 2 3/16 wide, just like my frame stands, which are also tall. Going to have to drill new holes in the frame to make it line up. I'm also ordering a new crossmember for better exhaust clearance. Avoid PATC at all costs. Garbage.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Which crossmember are you getting?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I have 1" lift 1/4" forward adapter plates that I made for my swap. I had header (Dougs) interferance and change directions, but I doubt that would be a problem with your Dynatechs. If you're interested, I'd be happy to sell them to you.









More pictures in this post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/15185312-post150.html

And throughout my build thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...00-6-0vvt.html

bczee

iTrader: (12)

On my Chevelle, I started with normal Short/Wide mounts and frames, but saw that I needed a bit more height to clear pan and steering. So I ended up using the Tall and Narrow mounts with narrowed S/W frame stands to raise it 7/16" (which is the difference of the T/N vs S/W mounts).

Guys, Just use any combination of parts to get what you need... just adjust as you need to... no Biggie !
- Thin to Thick Adapter plates.
- T/N or S/W engine mounts and frame mount
- spacers
- or just DIY the whole thing from scratch.

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

i did that as well, but i had to raise the mounting holes on the frame in order to make it all work. that got me closer to 1".

if they fit each other, you have the wrong setup to raise it. the taller version of the frame stand is too wide to fit the taller of the two engine mount. it has to be narrowed to fit.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I narrowed the frame stands so that the Mounts would fit. I also narrowed them an extra 1/2" so that I could use spacer/washer to jack the engine forward or backward that 1/2" to make sure the engine was in the location that gave me clearance on the front/back or near the critical areas that come close, That being 1) the power steering pump/pulley and the Steering box. and 2) the right side head and Firewall/AC Box.

BC

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

i like that idea.

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

http://www.crossmembers.com/shop/pro...roducts_id=141
That one.
I just want this car to be perfect. No rattles or driveline shimmies from poor angles, and I would like 3-4" of clearance. I think it can be done!

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

Oh god yes! However, my engine is 1" back right now. Would this effect the driveshaft? I suppose I could drill holes in it. How much?

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

According to http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm, on all low perf engine frame stands (which I have) - width is 2 3/8". Also, according to same site, "a 69 high performance mount, taller interlocking type of improved design that measures 21/8" from block to mount hole, width 2 3/8 [inches]."
I got that mount. I think it will work. We shall see. Just looking for a lot of clearance on the ground, good angles (will shim tranny up on that beautiful new crossmember I ordered), and no vibrations! Here's to hoping.
I've got so many thousands into it I just want it to run perfect - every single day.

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

How hard is it to raise the frame holes? Did you just weld it? It seems they are in there pretty good. I don't have a welder. Just a drill. Impossible?

3pedals

iTrader: (3)

be careful raising the engine that far guys, i raised mine about 5/8" and I cant raise the trans high enough to correct my driveline angles. trans hits floor before the angles are right.
my new plan is to put the crankshaft at the same height as the oem crank height in my 67 camaro, and deal with the pan clearence however I can. My Edelbrock headers dont hang low at all.

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

there is a short/wide set and a tall/narrow set. both sets when put together like intended are the same height. theres actually a pic somewhere comparing them. but, each set has one piece thats taller than the other set. in the short/wide its the frame stand and in the tall/narrow its the engine mount. in order to place the tall/narrow engine mount on the s/w frame stand, the frame stand has to be narrowed. if it fits without narrowing the stand, its the piece it was originally intended for and wont change a thing.

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

simple really. attach the mounts and stands to the motor, set it down on the frame and drill new holes where needed. i ended up welding mine since its a total pain in the *** to get the bolts in from the underside and it looks cleaner imho.