LQ4-Mustang....Alternator/Starter Wiring??
11-17-2011, 05:17 AM
#1
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LQ4-Mustang....Alternator/Starter Wiring?? Hopefully this post will help out some other folks. Im gonna be stripping my engine bay of my 93 when I get off work next week. It was orginally a 4 banger car. I was wondering about the wiring for the starter and alternator. I have both alternators from the Mustang and the one from the LQ4. I have a sneaking suspicion that the Chevy alternator is a better alterator and easier to mount on the engine but would need to figure out how to wire it to the Ford plug. I DO plan to leave most of the wiring in the car that came stock. I just dont have the patience to get in a wiring loom and read schematics.
Next up is the starter. The Mustang has the big solenoid over on the driver side fender. The Chevy is on the starter. I plan to keep the keyed ignition and everything looking fairly stock.
Battery will be relocated to the trunk if that matters. Sorry guys Im good at certain things but wiring DAMN sure aint one of em!! Thanks for the help.
Next up is the starter. The Mustang has the big solenoid over on the driver side fender. The Chevy is on the starter. I plan to keep the keyed ignition and everything looking fairly stock.
Battery will be relocated to the trunk if that matters. Sorry guys Im good at certain things but wiring DAMN sure aint one of em!! Thanks for the help.
11-17-2011, 06:27 AM
#2
Here is what I did and works perfect
Run a 2 gauge 12v from the battery to the starter big terminal
Then run a 8 gauge from the starter big terminal to the stock solenoid on the fender. This will power the rest of the car lights and stuff. connect the 8 gauge to the side that has all the connections for the rest of the car.
Then run a 12-14 gauge wire from the cold side of the stock fender solenoid to the little terminal on the starter.
This will allow the car to start with the stock key once you have the neutral saftey switch taken care of.
For the alt use the LS alt and run a 4 gauge power wire to the battery.
If you are installing a saftey switch then that will also need to be added.
I alsp recomend running a 2 gauge wire from the battery to the block. Also the frame near the battery and at least 3 good grounds from the engine to the frame rail.
Tim
Run a 2 gauge 12v from the battery to the starter big terminal
Then run a 8 gauge from the starter big terminal to the stock solenoid on the fender. This will power the rest of the car lights and stuff. connect the 8 gauge to the side that has all the connections for the rest of the car.
Then run a 12-14 gauge wire from the cold side of the stock fender solenoid to the little terminal on the starter.
This will allow the car to start with the stock key once you have the neutral saftey switch taken care of.
For the alt use the LS alt and run a 4 gauge power wire to the battery.
If you are installing a saftey switch then that will also need to be added.
I alsp recomend running a 2 gauge wire from the battery to the block. Also the frame near the battery and at least 3 good grounds from the engine to the frame rail.
Tim
Last edited by Gray86hatch; 11-17-2011 at 07:22 AM.
11-17-2011, 06:58 AM
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Ok sounds easy enough. I will have to look at it more when I get home next week but is there any hitches to removing the factory Ford alternator wiring?
11-17-2011, 09:04 AM
#5
Here is what I'm going to do on mine. I removed the factory ford stuff, as it will not be used. I will run the wire that used to go to the starter solenoid and make that my starter relay control wire. Then from relay to starter solenoid of course.
As for Battery power to starter. I'm moving my battery to the trunk, and I went to the junkyard and got the whole battery cable out of an olds aurora. It has 2 ends on it. 1 end will go straight to starter, and 2nd end will go to a distribution block.
For alternator, prob run a 4ga wire to the distribution block where the battery wire is. From dist. block, it will power the engine relays and fuse block for all power to run the motor. Also will run the 2 large yellow wires that used to go to ford solenoid to the main dist block to give power to the ign switch. This dist block will be where I get my all time hot wires from. On the same dist block (it has separate lugs) I will also have an ign hot lug, for things that I only want power when I have ign sw on.
The ign switch then will power up the new fuse block that gives power for body wiring such as: headlights hi/lo, blinkers, brake lights, tail lights, wiper motor, Acc, radio, etc.
This is how I'm essentially doing mine.
As for Battery power to starter. I'm moving my battery to the trunk, and I went to the junkyard and got the whole battery cable out of an olds aurora. It has 2 ends on it. 1 end will go straight to starter, and 2nd end will go to a distribution block.
For alternator, prob run a 4ga wire to the distribution block where the battery wire is. From dist. block, it will power the engine relays and fuse block for all power to run the motor. Also will run the 2 large yellow wires that used to go to ford solenoid to the main dist block to give power to the ign switch. This dist block will be where I get my all time hot wires from. On the same dist block (it has separate lugs) I will also have an ign hot lug, for things that I only want power when I have ign sw on.
The ign switch then will power up the new fuse block that gives power for body wiring such as: headlights hi/lo, blinkers, brake lights, tail lights, wiper motor, Acc, radio, etc.
This is how I'm essentially doing mine.
11-17-2011, 10:21 AM
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Here is what I'm going to do on mine. I removed the factory ford stuff, as it will not be used. I will run the wire that used to go to the starter solenoid and make that my starter relay control wire. Then from relay to starter solenoid of course.
As for Battery power to starter. I'm moving my battery to the trunk, and I went to the junkyard and got the whole battery cable out of an olds aurora. It has 2 ends on it. 1 end will go straight to starter, and 2nd end will go to a distribution block.
For alternator, prob run a 4ga wire to the distribution block where the battery wire is. From dist. block, it will power the engine relays and fuse block for all power to run the motor. Also will run the 2 large yellow wires that used to go to ford solenoid to the main dist block to give power to the ign switch. This dist block will be where I get my all time hot wires from. On the same dist block (it has separate lugs) I will also have an ign hot lug, for things that I only want power when I have ign sw on.
The ign switch then will power up the new fuse block that gives power for body wiring such as: headlights hi/lo, blinkers, brake lights, tail lights, wiper motor, Acc, radio, etc.
This is how I'm essentially doing mine.
As for Battery power to starter. I'm moving my battery to the trunk, and I went to the junkyard and got the whole battery cable out of an olds aurora. It has 2 ends on it. 1 end will go straight to starter, and 2nd end will go to a distribution block.
For alternator, prob run a 4ga wire to the distribution block where the battery wire is. From dist. block, it will power the engine relays and fuse block for all power to run the motor. Also will run the 2 large yellow wires that used to go to ford solenoid to the main dist block to give power to the ign switch. This dist block will be where I get my all time hot wires from. On the same dist block (it has separate lugs) I will also have an ign hot lug, for things that I only want power when I have ign sw on.
The ign switch then will power up the new fuse block that gives power for body wiring such as: headlights hi/lo, blinkers, brake lights, tail lights, wiper motor, Acc, radio, etc.
This is how I'm essentially doing mine.
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11-17-2011, 10:23 AM
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Here is what I did and works perfect
Run a 2 gauge 12v from the battery to the starter big terminal
Then run a 8 gauge from the starter big terminal to the stock solenoid on the fender. This will power the rest of the car lights and stuff. connect the 8 gauge to the side that has all the connections for the rest of the car.
Then run a 12-14 gauge wire from the cold side of the stock fender solenoid to the little terminal on the starter.
This will allow the car to start with the stock key once you have the neutral saftey switch taken care of.
For the alt use the LS alt and run a 4 gauge power wire to the battery.
If you are installing a saftey switch then that will also need to be added.
I alsp recomend running a 2 gauge wire from the battery to the block. Also the frame near the battery and at least 3 good grounds from the engine to the frame rail.
Tim
Run a 2 gauge 12v from the battery to the starter big terminal
Then run a 8 gauge from the starter big terminal to the stock solenoid on the fender. This will power the rest of the car lights and stuff. connect the 8 gauge to the side that has all the connections for the rest of the car.
Then run a 12-14 gauge wire from the cold side of the stock fender solenoid to the little terminal on the starter.
This will allow the car to start with the stock key once you have the neutral saftey switch taken care of.
For the alt use the LS alt and run a 4 gauge power wire to the battery.
If you are installing a saftey switch then that will also need to be added.
I alsp recomend running a 2 gauge wire from the battery to the block. Also the frame near the battery and at least 3 good grounds from the engine to the frame rail.
Tim
On the alternator dont you need an excite wire or do you have it rigged as a one wire type setup?
11-17-2011, 11:34 AM
#9
So your basically rewiring your car sounds like? If I were to have a track only car I would strip it out and wire essentials but I plan to keep it on the street where it will spend most of its time. I am gonna strip out as much as possible......I believe everything on the passenger side that ties into the computer can come out.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p349.html
As for it being a race car setup, not so much. Everything is stock wiring except for charging and starting circuits.
Yes, all wiring can be removed from drivers fenderwell. Save for yellow wires, and the Red/Grn I think, starter solenoid control wire.
Here are some links that has helped me get ready for my swap:
Everything is the same except the fitting at the tank.
For TCC brake sw
Factory Cooling fan diagram
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...fan-relays.gif
I don't know if you needed all this but it may help someone who is searching.
11-17-2011, 01:10 PM
#10
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I wish I had the knowledge and patience to strip down a wiring harness to the bare essentials. Ive stripped a couple of Mustangs down in my day but never got the guts to tear into the driver side of the harness. Its a wonder someone doesnt sell this harness already cut down. I know there are generic harnesses out there, not talking about those. Talkin plug and play.
11-17-2011, 01:37 PM
#11
It's not difficult at all. I've got all the wiring diagrams you would need. It mostly consists of going through the fuse box and pull out the fuses and all the wires that go to it out until you are left with just what you want. Same with Ign sw, and lights. It really was not all that bad.
Here is how many wires pass through the firewall on my car for the lights and what not:
Here is how many wires pass through the firewall on my car for the lights and what not:
11-17-2011, 01:50 PM
#12
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Wow that would be awesome. Just seems that wiring harnesses have alot of shared or redundant grounds once you get into them. Im only removing airbag stuff and a/c. I would like to remove the heater/ac box from under the dash but that would leave me with no heater/defrost. I have thought about putting like a Mojave heater in there from Flex-a-lite. There about 150 bucks from Summit/Jegs and are small and compact.
11-18-2011, 01:27 PM
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Its tempting it really is. When I get home next week and get Thanksgiving behind me I will have time to check it out more. The last harness I really got into was a Toyota truck harness trying to weed out the EFI stuff. It had grounds and power wires that went to BS I didnt need at the fuseblock so started cutting them out. Once you got a little further with it it would jump the power/ground or both to something you did need. So you would have to go back and reinstall or get power/ground from somewhere else. Hopefully that made sense.
IM NOT THE BRIGHTEST ON ELECTRICAL STUFF.....I should have said this first sentence. Reading a wiring diagram like in the back of a Haynes makes me wanna shoot myself in the face.
IM NOT THE BRIGHTEST ON ELECTRICAL STUFF.....I should have said this first sentence. Reading a wiring diagram like in the back of a Haynes makes me wanna shoot myself in the face.
Last edited by tex1978; 11-18-2011 at 01:34 PM.
