72 Chevelle w/ FAST EZ-EFI, 700R4 and custom accessory drive.
#41
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MSD Wiredless and 4L70e EZ-TCU.
Just posting a few pictures of my current and upcoming winter projects. Sold my 5.3HO and will replace it with an LS1 with Mahle forged pistons and balanced bottom end. Heads will be ported LS6 heads, FAST 4Bbl throttlebody, converted Edelbrock 7118 intake for port EFI and MSD's Wiredless EFI. Tranny is a 4L70e out of a Trailblazer SS controlled by EZ-TCU.
I'm just finishing the belt drive and will post more pictures of it with details on how and what I used to build it. I have to reposition the tensioner a little but it's basically complete as shown. The major parts can be bought or modified and it uses a truck alternator and converted waterpump. It will clear the A-body steering box and have no crossmember modifications.
While doing all this I will fix my Street&Performance oil pan so it clears the steering properly as well as a few other things that have been bugging me. I have the new Holley oil pan as a backup plan. I will definitely be busy for the next few months.
I'm just finishing the belt drive and will post more pictures of it with details on how and what I used to build it. I have to reposition the tensioner a little but it's basically complete as shown. The major parts can be bought or modified and it uses a truck alternator and converted waterpump. It will clear the A-body steering box and have no crossmember modifications.
While doing all this I will fix my Street&Performance oil pan so it clears the steering properly as well as a few other things that have been bugging me. I have the new Holley oil pan as a backup plan. I will definitely be busy for the next few months.
Last edited by fox12303; 04-04-2014 at 03:25 PM.
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Couple pictures of the engine in the car with the MSD hooked up. I haven't finished covering the wiring yet as I want to give it all a good test. Issue with the TCI controller but it drives/shifts fine.
I have it running after a bit of an issue that I thought was with the MSD Wiredless but it was me. I was planning to remote mount the coils but I didn't think there would be room behind the heads. I had already taken the coils/brackets apart to make my own remote mounts but decided to wait til I had it back in the car. Be careful how you put the coil wiring back together because you can do it backwards. I found out the hard way that you can.
The belt drive clears with 1/2" to the steering box and I was able to make my own pressure line to no expensive AN lines to buy. Cost me $18 to modify my own. Tranny lines are the factory TH350 lines that came original with my car too. Used the case fittings from the TH350 and re-bent the lines to clear everything.
I have it running after a bit of an issue that I thought was with the MSD Wiredless but it was me. I was planning to remote mount the coils but I didn't think there would be room behind the heads. I had already taken the coils/brackets apart to make my own remote mounts but decided to wait til I had it back in the car. Be careful how you put the coil wiring back together because you can do it backwards. I found out the hard way that you can.
The belt drive clears with 1/2" to the steering box and I was able to make my own pressure line to no expensive AN lines to buy. Cost me $18 to modify my own. Tranny lines are the factory TH350 lines that came original with my car too. Used the case fittings from the TH350 and re-bent the lines to clear everything.
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MSD EFI and tranny pictures.
I’ve put a few miles on my Chevelle now with the MSD EFI on it. It runs well other than a little cold start stumble. It doesn’t start until fuel pressure builds if it has been sitting overnight. The fuel pressure bleeds down after it’s shut down but it did that with both my previous setups. Not sure why? I’ve had multiple pumps in the tank and it has always bleeds down. Not immediately after shut down, takes an hour or so.
The intake conversion was the most difficult to do. No manufacture makes a dual plane single 4bbl intake for EFI. I drilled and welded in bungs to run the EFI with a FAST 4bbl throttle body. Some fabrication to mount the rails too but overall not too difficult. To drill the intake I made a wood jig to hold the intake at the correct compound angles and drilled it on my drill press using a stepped drill bit with a pilot ground into it. I unfortunately don’t have the fixturing to mount the intake in my Smithy so the accuracy is not perfect. It works though and without precision measuring you would not know it was done by an amateur. Welding was done by a co-worker. You can see I removed the bosses which were originally used for the Edelbrock ignition controller.
The belt drive works well, there are pictures in a previous post. I may post additional information on it but there is alot of fabrication there. I really want to test it more before doing that. The p/s pressure line leaked at first but I was able to get these crimp style clamps from Parker to fix that issue, you can see them in the picture. I was able to use the original line and change the pump end with a custom bent piece with a -6an nut/sleeve. The cost was less than $30. The return hose I used a -6an push-lock fitting with a band style clamp for extra measure. Cost was $15. Clearance is 1/2" from pulley to steering box and you can see I replaced the one bolt, the head is shorted for clearance.
No driveline issues to this point either. The angle is better than my last setup, engines at about 3 degrees down and the pinion set a little less than 3 degrees up . I’ve kept the motor as low as possible, you can see by the clearance at the oil pan it’s close. By doing this you avoid having to raise the tranny. Typically the body of the tranny is very tight to the floor prohibiting raising. I chamfered or radiused the bellhousing bolt bosses. This gave me enough clearance to keep the engine/tranny as far back as possible too.
The tranny is a 4L70e from a 2006 Trailblazer SS. It had only 50k miles and has not been rebuilt. Controlled by an EZ-TCU from TCI and a ShiftWorks tail housing conversion to keep the mechanical speedometer. This enabled me to use the stock TH350 crossmember in the stock location by removing the mount pad and relocating to the rear. It fits with plenty of clearance. The savings on the crossmember offset the additional expense of the tail housing conversion vs the black box to drive the speedo.
I'm hoping to make the PowerTour(first four days) with the car but I'm not sure I have the time available to take for it. I may be considering selling the car too as it may be time(or lack of time) to move onto something newer. Thanks for the nice comments and views.
The intake conversion was the most difficult to do. No manufacture makes a dual plane single 4bbl intake for EFI. I drilled and welded in bungs to run the EFI with a FAST 4bbl throttle body. Some fabrication to mount the rails too but overall not too difficult. To drill the intake I made a wood jig to hold the intake at the correct compound angles and drilled it on my drill press using a stepped drill bit with a pilot ground into it. I unfortunately don’t have the fixturing to mount the intake in my Smithy so the accuracy is not perfect. It works though and without precision measuring you would not know it was done by an amateur. Welding was done by a co-worker. You can see I removed the bosses which were originally used for the Edelbrock ignition controller.
The belt drive works well, there are pictures in a previous post. I may post additional information on it but there is alot of fabrication there. I really want to test it more before doing that. The p/s pressure line leaked at first but I was able to get these crimp style clamps from Parker to fix that issue, you can see them in the picture. I was able to use the original line and change the pump end with a custom bent piece with a -6an nut/sleeve. The cost was less than $30. The return hose I used a -6an push-lock fitting with a band style clamp for extra measure. Cost was $15. Clearance is 1/2" from pulley to steering box and you can see I replaced the one bolt, the head is shorted for clearance.
No driveline issues to this point either. The angle is better than my last setup, engines at about 3 degrees down and the pinion set a little less than 3 degrees up . I’ve kept the motor as low as possible, you can see by the clearance at the oil pan it’s close. By doing this you avoid having to raise the tranny. Typically the body of the tranny is very tight to the floor prohibiting raising. I chamfered or radiused the bellhousing bolt bosses. This gave me enough clearance to keep the engine/tranny as far back as possible too.
The tranny is a 4L70e from a 2006 Trailblazer SS. It had only 50k miles and has not been rebuilt. Controlled by an EZ-TCU from TCI and a ShiftWorks tail housing conversion to keep the mechanical speedometer. This enabled me to use the stock TH350 crossmember in the stock location by removing the mount pad and relocating to the rear. It fits with plenty of clearance. The savings on the crossmember offset the additional expense of the tail housing conversion vs the black box to drive the speedo.
I'm hoping to make the PowerTour(first four days) with the car but I'm not sure I have the time available to take for it. I may be considering selling the car too as it may be time(or lack of time) to move onto something newer. Thanks for the nice comments and views.
Last edited by fox12303; 05-28-2014 at 08:35 PM.
#47
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Oil pan baffle for Holley 302-2 oil pan.
Here's pics of my oil pan baffle made from hardware store parts. Stanley makes the hinges and the pin is riveted on both sides. They are 2.5 and 3" hinges with the screw holes welded up. Using the tray included with the Holey oil pan, I welded .060 sheet metal to get what you see. Left small gap bottom and sides to let the oil move around a little on its own. Cost was about $25 and a few hours of my time. I would have used the Holley baffle but it is expensive.
Included a picture of the intake setup with the fuel rail standoffs. I modified the MSD brackets and made spacers out of DOM tubing. Used the LS2 intake bolts cut down about 1/2" as I went with the shorter LS3 injectors instead of the LS2's.
Included a picture of the intake setup with the fuel rail standoffs. I modified the MSD brackets and made spacers out of DOM tubing. Used the LS2 intake bolts cut down about 1/2" as I went with the shorter LS3 injectors instead of the LS2's.
Last edited by fox12303; 05-31-2014 at 07:49 PM.
#49
Any issues with the new holley pan?
Any chance you want to sell the S&P pan setup?
I believe your the first to use the 302-2 in an A body.....looks like a nice fit.
Any chance you want to sell the S&P pan setup?
I believe your the first to use the 302-2 in an A body.....looks like a nice fit.
#50
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Hey Fox, now you got me going with your Intake Manifold I have been thinking about doing that in my 68 Chevelle. Can you tell me more about that set up like bungs, hood clearance and Throttle body type.. I'm going to use an SPI harness and what ever pcm he suggest and run a SD tune if I can.
BTW your engine bay looks really nice !!!
Thanks, Tony
BTW your engine bay looks really nice !!!
Thanks, Tony
#51
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tmcmillan5, I would look at the new Holley low profile single plane intake as it already has the bosses machined. I just came back from the PowerTour and saw the intake on display. It looks like a very nice piece. The throttlebody is from FAST. No hood clearance issues for me. It will depend on how high you place your engine and the type of hood. Mine is the SS hood but I am certain it would have fit with the stock flat hood. Thanks for the nice remarks.
daytripper67mi, no isues with the Holley oil pan. I'm sure I'm not the first but many people had already bought the other model so to change in mid stream is pricey. I was lucky to sell my Street&Performance pan to offset the cost. Sorry I sold it a few months back. It was a good pan but had steering clearance issues. The Holley pan is currently the best choice in my opinion and the most cost conservative.
I will post more details on the EFI as it runs good but is not performing as expected on the dyno or track. It runs good as a driver and I think I got 18mpg on my trip. While I was in Charleston I ran it on the dyno and it power flatlined after 4500rpm. They suggested I had too much timing, fuel ratios were good. I haven't really played with the MSD yet other than going through the basic setup, setting the IAC and any other basic settings. It ran well on the street but would hesitate on the autocross under heavy load. First time autocross and I would recommend it to everyone.
Update: I believe the root cause of the lose of power was a bad engine ground causing a voltage drop and the ignition dropping off at higher rpm's.
First time PowerTour also and I had a great time. Went to Hotchkis Friday, ZMax Saturday, Knoxville Sunday and Charleston on Monday. Then drove home Monday night. I was going to go to Summit but decided not to. I recommend it to if it comes to a city near you in the future.
daytripper67mi, no isues with the Holley oil pan. I'm sure I'm not the first but many people had already bought the other model so to change in mid stream is pricey. I was lucky to sell my Street&Performance pan to offset the cost. Sorry I sold it a few months back. It was a good pan but had steering clearance issues. The Holley pan is currently the best choice in my opinion and the most cost conservative.
I will post more details on the EFI as it runs good but is not performing as expected on the dyno or track. It runs good as a driver and I think I got 18mpg on my trip. While I was in Charleston I ran it on the dyno and it power flatlined after 4500rpm. They suggested I had too much timing, fuel ratios were good. I haven't really played with the MSD yet other than going through the basic setup, setting the IAC and any other basic settings. It ran well on the street but would hesitate on the autocross under heavy load. First time autocross and I would recommend it to everyone.
Update: I believe the root cause of the lose of power was a bad engine ground causing a voltage drop and the ignition dropping off at higher rpm's.
First time PowerTour also and I had a great time. Went to Hotchkis Friday, ZMax Saturday, Knoxville Sunday and Charleston on Monday. Then drove home Monday night. I was going to go to Summit but decided not to. I recommend it to if it comes to a city near you in the future.
Last edited by fox12303; 06-27-2014 at 02:33 PM.
#53
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Sold the Chevelle, off to Texas. Not sure will might be next. Probably take some time off from cars, build a few engines perhaps. I'll get back to building accessory drives to fuel the next project. If anyone is interested in the above drive, pm me. It fits with no steering issues or frame modifications. Probably fit Camaros and other popular swaps. Cheaper too.
Figured out my gas mileage on the trip to be 18mpg.
***UPDATE*** The Chevelle is back, read below.
Figured out my gas mileage on the trip to be 18mpg.
***UPDATE*** The Chevelle is back, read below.
Last edited by fox12303; 07-20-2015 at 03:29 PM.
#54
A/C Bracket
I love the quality and clarity in your pictures and description of what you are trying to accomplish in this thread. GREAT READ. Should be a sticky.
That said I am very interested in the A/C Bracket on your latest iteration of the ACCSY Drive. I have a Stock F-Body set-up. The car its going into is a 1987 Chevrolet Caprice. I am aware that the best oil-pan is the Holley 302-2 and that I will need to relocate the A/C Comp. I would really like to use the stock Comp with this bracket, but I will sell my comp and purchase a Sanden if that works best. Your bracket is BY FAR, THE BEST at fitment and looks. As far as I can tell it fits within the engine envelope as far as height width and depth.
Please let me know in a PM if this is something you would like to pursue.
Thank you
Todd
That said I am very interested in the A/C Bracket on your latest iteration of the ACCSY Drive. I have a Stock F-Body set-up. The car its going into is a 1987 Chevrolet Caprice. I am aware that the best oil-pan is the Holley 302-2 and that I will need to relocate the A/C Comp. I would really like to use the stock Comp with this bracket, but I will sell my comp and purchase a Sanden if that works best. Your bracket is BY FAR, THE BEST at fitment and looks. As far as I can tell it fits within the engine envelope as far as height width and depth.
Please let me know in a PM if this is something you would like to pursue.
Thank you
Todd
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1966 AMC Rambler stationwagon
So here's the next project. It's an AMC Rambler wagon. It's in very good condition and it's mostly original. Interior is poor as are all the soft parts but the engine bay is plenty big enough for an LS1. Just hope the tunnel will take the tranny without issue.
Chassis will get an new front crossmember with rack&pinion steering and coil overs. I don't want Mustang II, I'm hoping an AME will work with there corvette style parts. The rear will be a three link as it has a factory panhard bar using a Ford 8.8 or GM 10/12 bolt. Brakes will be LS1 disc all around.
Interior will have bucket seats, VintageAir heating/cooling and a good stereo system. Cruise control is mandatory. The rest of the interior I will have to do custom as some pieces are missing and most of the other stuff is broken up or not useable.
Engine will be the LS1 and 4L60e tranny. Going to try Holley EFI to control it all. That will be the biggest expense. Rather than having to get HP tuners or have the factory computer flashed the Holley stuff will let me tune as needed. Though budget may dictate I go carb at first but that means buying a computer anyway for the tranny.
Timeframe is to have it done by mid summer to hopefully attend the Holley LS fest or possibly Power Tour again but that will be pushing it.
Chassis will get an new front crossmember with rack&pinion steering and coil overs. I don't want Mustang II, I'm hoping an AME will work with there corvette style parts. The rear will be a three link as it has a factory panhard bar using a Ford 8.8 or GM 10/12 bolt. Brakes will be LS1 disc all around.
Interior will have bucket seats, VintageAir heating/cooling and a good stereo system. Cruise control is mandatory. The rest of the interior I will have to do custom as some pieces are missing and most of the other stuff is broken up or not useable.
Engine will be the LS1 and 4L60e tranny. Going to try Holley EFI to control it all. That will be the biggest expense. Rather than having to get HP tuners or have the factory computer flashed the Holley stuff will let me tune as needed. Though budget may dictate I go carb at first but that means buying a computer anyway for the tranny.
Timeframe is to have it done by mid summer to hopefully attend the Holley LS fest or possibly Power Tour again but that will be pushing it.
#56
Fox12303,
Nice score on the wagon. I really dig it ALOT. Any other pics? I never seen one before. Any idea on the stock weight?
I'll deff. subscribe once you start a new thread. Good luck with the build bro!
Nice score on the wagon. I really dig it ALOT. Any other pics? I never seen one before. Any idea on the stock weight?
I'll deff. subscribe once you start a new thread. Good luck with the build bro!
#57
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Well the Rambler is coming along. Swapped the rear axle/torque tube for a Ford 8.8 out of an 89 Mustang. Used a set of Summit Racing tubular control arms and made the frame mounts and crossmember. I ended up using a Ford 302/AOD instead of the LS1/4L60e, it actually fits perfect. Been posting over on the theAMCForum.com
**UPDATE** Sold the wagon, too many cars.
The bigger news is that the Chevelle is back. The new owner said that if he was to ever sell I would be the first call. He called and I bought it back. So I will update any changes made. Planned updates: different fuel injection(DBW factory stuff), Holley hydramat in tank, LS2 this winter and rebuild the tranny with better torque convertor.
**UPDATE** Sold the wagon, too many cars.
The bigger news is that the Chevelle is back. The new owner said that if he was to ever sell I would be the first call. He called and I bought it back. So I will update any changes made. Planned updates: different fuel injection(DBW factory stuff), Holley hydramat in tank, LS2 this winter and rebuild the tranny with better torque convertor.
Last edited by fox12303; 11-26-2015 at 07:18 AM.
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Flew to Tx and drove home. Had to replace the alternator before leaving as it was only putting out 11.5v, it would drain the battery in the meantime too. Made it out of Tx and all the way to Nashville where I got a vibration from the rear, pinion was coming loose. So I choose to trailer it home from there. Turns out the nut came loose which allowed the bearing to walk out a bit. Replaced the bearing/race and good togo. Most expensive $40 repair ever.
New rearend coming anyway as the HP is going up this winter. Building an LS2 for 450-500hp i'm installing a Ford 9" with Moser axles, new Ford posi and 3.50 gears. Installing the 2.84 planet gear in my stock 4l70e along with a good stall convertor and some other valvebody upgrades while its all apart. Tranny works fine and doesn't have a lot of miles, it just seems sluggish compared to my built 700R4 I had previously.
Then there are a few cosmetic items I want to address with the body. I have to remove the top or at least a portion of it to repair around the lower corners of the rear window. Then prime and reinstall top. The front and rear windows will come out too and get resealed. It would be a good time to replace the headliner as I have one small dime sized hole. It's an unfortunate story as it is otherwise a perfect original. Have an older reproduction one that is a very close color match.
New rearend coming anyway as the HP is going up this winter. Building an LS2 for 450-500hp i'm installing a Ford 9" with Moser axles, new Ford posi and 3.50 gears. Installing the 2.84 planet gear in my stock 4l70e along with a good stall convertor and some other valvebody upgrades while its all apart. Tranny works fine and doesn't have a lot of miles, it just seems sluggish compared to my built 700R4 I had previously.
Then there are a few cosmetic items I want to address with the body. I have to remove the top or at least a portion of it to repair around the lower corners of the rear window. Then prime and reinstall top. The front and rear windows will come out too and get resealed. It would be a good time to replace the headliner as I have one small dime sized hole. It's an unfortunate story as it is otherwise a perfect original. Have an older reproduction one that is a very close color match.
Last edited by fox12303; 11-26-2015 at 07:14 AM.
#59
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Selling the EFI setup.
I'm thinking about removing the EFI and selling it. I have an oem setup that I'm going to install and then maybe a supercharger. Its an MSD Wiredless 2950 with LS2 injectors. It would include the modified Edelbrock intake manifold and throttlebody. The wiring has been modified to fit my current setup so it would have to be redone a bit when installed on another engine. $2250 for the setup. Does not include the Fast tranny controller. PM me if interested.
Update... Sold the MSD Wiredless and throttlebody. Still have the intake.
Update... Sold the MSD Wiredless and throttlebody. Still have the intake.
Last edited by fox12303; 04-25-2017 at 12:49 PM.
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Couple updates from this past winter, installed a Ford 9" and rebuilt the 4L70e.Plan on at least an LS2 update in the near future so I wanted to upgrade the rear before I broke anything. The 8.2 was upgraded but I wanted the get rid of the c-clips for good. One issue with the Ford axle is it raises the upper control arm mounts 1". I'm not sure if this will affect handling negatively. Perhaps I should have done an 8.5 with large bearing Ford truck ends and custom axles. The tranny was stock an worn so it needed an overhaul. When I would launch the car hard, the tranny would shift to neutral rather than shift into 2nd. The reverse drum was worn badly and was probably not holding. Moderate performance build with Transgo shift reprogrammer. Seems to be better but I haven't fully tested it yet.
Update. Same problem with tranny after rebild. Need to put a pressure guage on it and start some diag....
Update. Same problem with tranny after rebild. Need to put a pressure guage on it and start some diag....
Last edited by fox12303; 04-25-2017 at 12:47 PM.