scatterbrained

iTrader: (4)

Hello all;

I've been reading about a lot of LS installs, especially into first gen Camaros, and I'm currently in the process of gathering parts to do the swap on my 68. I have the engine and trans (T56), and was wondering what everyone was using for an oil pan and more importantly why they were using it.

I was considering both the Hummer pan and the Street and Performance modified pan. I know there are others out there, I was just looking for feedback.

Thanks in advance!

Scatter'd

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

If the donor motor is out of an F-body, use that. Sump is a lot more shallow as not to hang below frame like a truck pan will. If it's not, you may have to go aftermarket because an F-body pan is hard to find by itself, they are an excellent pan for swaps.

bad67ls

iTrader: (2)

i have the lh8 pan in mine, and its pretty low. my car isnt very low in the front so u havnt had any issues, but the sump is real narrow and deep. i have atleast 4 or 5 inches between the centerlink and the front of the sump...not thrilled with the setup but it works.

Rocketrod

iTrader: (2)

I used the Mast Performance LS Conversion Cast Oil Pan another popular pan is made by Autokraft.

scatterbrained

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm leaning towards the Street and Performance pan, primarily based on cost and clearance. The Mast pan looks nice, as well as the Autokraft, but for the money, I don't think it can be beat. At leat for a guy like me with no fab skills...

Thanks guys!

Scatter'd

thenova70ss

iTrader: (2)

I have the Autokraft Oil Pan on my Nova 1972 its the same as the one you would use on your Camaro and it works GREAT.

http://www.autokraft.org/products/

Holley is all so making a Pan now that looks Good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QNyhrJWMOk

bad67ls

iTrader: (2)

500 bucks for that pan?! Are they high?

Whats the capacity? If its less than 6 quarts thats 2 strikes...

thenova70ss

iTrader: (2)

My Autokraft pan is 6qt it said 5 1/2 when i got the pan but with 6 its just a little over full so i just put 6 in it.

Not sure about the Holley i think is all so 6qt.

Indyjc

iTrader: (1)

I notched my f-body pan, had it welded up for about 50 bucks. No issues after 4 yrs. Also have done a little autocross.

67camNKC

iTrader: (3)

Indy,

I'm planning on doing the same on my pan. I bought a welder with an aluminum spool gun. I figure this job will help expense part of that.... How much did you notch yours? The F-body swap basics thread on here said 2" x 2" or 2 x 2.25". Or, how much clearance do you have when parked?

Thanks,

Shannon

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

if I were you I' d research this some more!!! the slogan "you get what you pay for"

Doug G

Haven't made the swap yet...but from all my searching/asking....Holley pan for me. The fabricated pans are nice, but once you add in the remote filter....$$$$

scatterbrained

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the replies guys. I should've titled it "Why did you choose the pan you did?"

Thanks for all the insightful responses, it'll help me decide in the near future.

Scatter'd

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I am using the Holley pan on my 71 Nova swap (its really RetroLSx pan before Holley got the rights).. I agree, you will get what you pay for.

With the LH8 / Muscle Pan, it is going to hang down below the Crossmember unless you raise the engine and trans up (but that will create other issue for the firewall and trans tunnel).

You have to be carefull on welding the pan, you don't want to warp it. also many of the Early pans were casted very cheaply. The pores in the alumnium are very grainny and suck up the oil and makes it hard to weld. If your going to weld/tig it, clean it very good and pre-heat it.

BC

Ravenous T\A

iTrader: (12)

Moroso makes a sheetmetal pan, worked good from me so far but im just a 2nd Gen

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

+1 autokraft

pairof69s

I was leaning towards the moroso pan also, but I was thinking about saving 100$ and modifying my truck pickup instead of buying moroso's..?