World's easiest 5.3 swap--Dodge Dakota
07-09-2012, 09:15 PM
#81
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Damn after reading all that, I'm glad I have a 95. 
If I didn't, I would throw all the Chrysler crap in the trash, minus some of the bulkhead connectors and wiring, and just run AM everything.
Now if I could just find all the circuits for the bulkhead connector in mine. I think some lazy person didn't copy over the correct circuit numbers to find them in the FSM.
If I didn't, I would throw all the Chrysler crap in the trash, minus some of the bulkhead connectors and wiring, and just run AM everything.
Now if I could just find all the circuits for the bulkhead connector in mine. I think some lazy person didn't copy over the correct circuit numbers to find them in the FSM.
07-09-2012, 09:20 PM
#82
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All the ccd, bus pulses and differing pcm talk is why im going speedhut gauges with a GPS Speedo. I can research and figure out the details but my patience isnt my most endearing trait haha.
09-03-2012, 09:51 AM
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Since im going to make a stand alone engine harness with electric fans from the ls harness im trying to strip down the Dakota wiring harness to just run the body functions such as lights and brakes.Im trying to cut down on as much wiring as possible in the engine bay so where is everyone getting their diagrams for the Dakota and is the Dakota pcm needed for the abs module to function correctly?
My makeshift wiring workshop haha
My makeshift wiring workshop haha
09-05-2012, 08:26 AM
#86
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Speaking for my 95, ABS is completely seperate, but if my feeble mind is correct, when OBD2 got implemented, the ABS module got connected to the bus, but is still completely seperate from the PCM. I don't recall the front wheel speed sensors being used by the PCM for any functions, only the speedo gear in the trans and rear end are used by the PCM for speedo output and trans shifting faults.
HTH.
09-05-2012, 06:23 PM
#87
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Now that you mention that I didnt remember any wiring to the front wheel areas so I checked and sure enough only have rear wheel ABS...not even sure its worth trying to keep since the front brakes handle most of the duty anyway
Edit:
Well the pcm does have some input because wiring does run from abs module harness to fuse block to the pcm harness...decisions on what to do now hmmm
Edit:
Well the pcm does have some input because wiring does run from abs module harness to fuse block to the pcm harness...decisions on what to do now hmmm
Last edited by Verz; 09-06-2012 at 12:05 AM.
09-21-2012, 10:08 PM
#88
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Verz,
Looking good man. Keep it up you'll have a running truck!
Alldata is where I got my diagrams. Lmk if you need a hand with anything.
Last edited by Vents; 09-21-2012 at 10:14 PM.
09-21-2012, 10:12 PM
#89
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FYI, as far as the ABS goes, you can simply eliminate the chicken scratch solenoid block from the circuit and run straight to the proportioning valve. It works fine. The abs never really worked all that great on these trucks anyway. Are you sticking with the stock booster?
09-22-2012, 05:13 PM
#90
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FYI, as far as the ABS goes, you can simply eliminate the chicken scratch solenoid block from the circuit and run straight to the proportioning valve. It works fine. The abs never really worked all that great on these trucks anyway. Are you sticking with the stock booster?
09-23-2012, 03:24 PM
#91
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What works depends on your brake setup really.
With the hydro boost, there is obviously more assist ratio than with a vacuum booster, so you with the master cyllinder you run a fine line between too big a diameter = too much volume vs: too small = too much pressure and lower volume. You can do the math and cc your calipers or just pick a size and roll with it, see what happens.
So far a duramax booster and a modified strange master cyllinder with stock disc/drums, stops better than stock. stock prop valve, no abs. Downside is that it can lock up the drums on too much foot pedal pressure. Going to try adding rear discs and bigger front discs. 2003 Durangos had rear discs, 12" diameter front rotors w/ dual piston calipers.
With the hydro boost, there is obviously more assist ratio than with a vacuum booster, so you with the master cyllinder you run a fine line between too big a diameter = too much volume vs: too small = too much pressure and lower volume. You can do the math and cc your calipers or just pick a size and roll with it, see what happens.
So far a duramax booster and a modified strange master cyllinder with stock disc/drums, stops better than stock. stock prop valve, no abs. Downside is that it can lock up the drums on too much foot pedal pressure. Going to try adding rear discs and bigger front discs. 2003 Durangos had rear discs, 12" diameter front rotors w/ dual piston calipers.
Last edited by Vents; 09-23-2012 at 06:17 PM.
09-24-2012, 12:09 AM
#92
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What works depends on your brake setup really.
With the hydro boost, there is obviously more assist ratio than with a vacuum booster, so you with the master cyllinder you run a fine line between too big a diameter = too much volume vs: too small = too much pressure and lower volume. You can do the math and cc your calipers or just pick a size and roll with it, see what happens.
So far a duramax booster and a modified strange master cyllinder with stock disc/drums, stops better than stock. stock prop valve, no abs. Downside is that it can lock up the drums on too much foot pedal pressure. Going to try adding rear discs and bigger front discs. 2003 Durangos had rear discs, 12" diameter front rotors w/ dual piston calipers.
With the hydro boost, there is obviously more assist ratio than with a vacuum booster, so you with the master cyllinder you run a fine line between too big a diameter = too much volume vs: too small = too much pressure and lower volume. You can do the math and cc your calipers or just pick a size and roll with it, see what happens.
So far a duramax booster and a modified strange master cyllinder with stock disc/drums, stops better than stock. stock prop valve, no abs. Downside is that it can lock up the drums on too much foot pedal pressure. Going to try adding rear discs and bigger front discs. 2003 Durangos had rear discs, 12" diameter front rotors w/ dual piston calipers.
09-24-2012, 06:25 PM
#93
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Certianly, you can't go wrong upgrading to rear discs. The hydroboost setup is really not as complicated as you'd think, but you will need to fab a spacer bracket and that should be welded at the very least or cnc'd billett, but thats money. I got a lot of good info from reading pirate 4x4, and other forums.
If you don't care about changing the wheel bolt pattern, you could go 4-1/2 on 5 (dodge/ford) and wheel options get a lot better. The front hubs can easily be welded up and re drilled, but your front brake upgrade options are all custom at that point. Rears are easy. What rear axle are you looking at?
If you don't care about changing the wheel bolt pattern, you could go 4-1/2 on 5 (dodge/ford) and wheel options get a lot better. The front hubs can easily be welded up and re drilled, but your front brake upgrade options are all custom at that point. Rears are easy. What rear axle are you looking at?
10-15-2012, 08:33 AM
#94
LY6 in 1999 Dakota R/T Here are pictures of our project LSDAK1. We are waiting for the driveshaft, then off to wiring.
Specs:
2007 LY6 103k stock
6L90 transmission
Rear disc conversion
255 in-tank Walbro with 58 PSI regulator/return 3/8 feed, 5/16 return
All stock gauges except tach
Drive-by-wire accelerator pedal
Stock column shift
Original crossmember with spacer
Original motor mounts and perches with adapter plate
5" aluminum 1-piece driveshaft
Specs:
2007 LY6 103k stock
6L90 transmission
Rear disc conversion
255 in-tank Walbro with 58 PSI regulator/return 3/8 feed, 5/16 return
All stock gauges except tach
Drive-by-wire accelerator pedal
Stock column shift
Original crossmember with spacer
Original motor mounts and perches with adapter plate
5" aluminum 1-piece driveshaft
01-05-2013, 09:54 PM
#95
i have a 2002 dak n the 4.7 just **** the bed. i can get the gm eng/trans combo easy fr9om the local yard but i am short on time n space. is there anyone in NY who CAN o this swap? i would prefer a 6.0 L n auto but the truck is a 2002 dak ext cab 4.7 auto 4x4. thanks.. or if there is a list or kit for this swap???
01-05-2013, 10:23 PM
#96
is there a specific kit? a link to * buy all this and it works* a ready to install swap kit? i know it sounds too easy but am more than electrically challenged lol...i can sling wrenches all day but i am loking for a plug and play kit with a install kit straight forward kinda deal. something that can be done in a day...please let me know!!!!
you can PM or email at whiteknight91rs@yahoo.com send video links of how to doit? or call me 315-408-4022 if you can reccommend or help ? or have a kit? thanks Gregg
you can PM or email at whiteknight91rs@yahoo.com send video links of how to doit? or call me 315-408-4022 if you can reccommend or help ? or have a kit? thanks Gregg
01-05-2013, 10:27 PM
#98
Your engine mounts will be the biggest issue.Many suppliers out there for wiring harnesses.Depending on your trucks options,you may need a different trans and t-case than what comes with the same year engine you go with.Have you decided on cable throttle or drive by wire?Than can make a difference also.
01-12-2013, 01:45 PM
#99
i would love to go 6.0L auto and keep my 4x4 but not sure how the drive shafts, ecm, would work out. i have power everything but rear windows.. is there a store or a place that sells everything that i would need? and or a video manual so i could do it in a weekend? like aplug and play deal?