5.3l 64 chevelle just got it running but has issues
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
5.3l 64 chevelle just got it running but has issues
Finally got my 5.3l/4l60e installed and running in my 64 chevelle. It has some issues. Long term fuel trims are maxxed at +25% and tailpipes show black as would be expected since it is running rich.
It is runs very rough, as if it is missing a cylinder, but runs fairly good above 2500 rpm.
Pulled the plugs and all had oil on the threads except number 7 cylinder and the number 8 cylinder was not as oily as the rest.
Compression test shows 162, 168, 155, 174, 164, 170, 162, 154.
Leak down test shows 28%, 24%, 38%, 22%, 24%, 24%, 22%, 18%.
The thing that really has me puzzled is the cylinder with the lowest compression shows the least amount of leakage????
Anyone have advice as to what my problem is. Picture of plugs and test numbers attached below. You can see the difference in the number 7 & 8 plugs.
It is runs very rough, as if it is missing a cylinder, but runs fairly good above 2500 rpm.
Pulled the plugs and all had oil on the threads except number 7 cylinder and the number 8 cylinder was not as oily as the rest.
Compression test shows 162, 168, 155, 174, 164, 170, 162, 154.
Leak down test shows 28%, 24%, 38%, 22%, 24%, 24%, 22%, 18%.
The thing that really has me puzzled is the cylinder with the lowest compression shows the least amount of leakage????
Anyone have advice as to what my problem is. Picture of plugs and test numbers attached below. You can see the difference in the number 7 & 8 plugs.
#2
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
It is possible that you have fuel washed the cylinders with the rich tune. That would give you bogus cranking compression and leakdown numbers. You could try turning the fuel pump off, spraying some wd 40 in the intake while cranking the motor and then testing again.
#3
TECH Fanatic
How long did the engine sit while the swap was being undertaken? It is highly likely that a rust ring has been created on the valve faces or seats. It is also possible that the lifters have bled down some, it can take a while for them to fully pump up again. Having owned a machine shop I have seen these symptoms before.
When you did the leak down did you back off the rockers? If not you can get false readings.
I would suggest that you refire the engine and let it run for 15-20 minutes at idle. Let it fully come up to temp, then slowly raise and lower the engine speed similar to doing an flat tappet cam break in. I expect that this will make a big difference. If not go back and repeat the leak test. Leak percentage hot and cold will be different, as will compression (this is really cylinder pressure not actual compression).
When you did the leak down did you back off the rockers? If not you can get false readings.
I would suggest that you refire the engine and let it run for 15-20 minutes at idle. Let it fully come up to temp, then slowly raise and lower the engine speed similar to doing an flat tappet cam break in. I expect that this will make a big difference. If not go back and repeat the leak test. Leak percentage hot and cold will be different, as will compression (this is really cylinder pressure not actual compression).
#4
What type of injectors are you running? Also what is the PCM you are running the injectors with? It is posssible a couple of your tables are way off...one coming to mind, the table that distinguishes the Flow Rate v. KPA.
What was done to the motor? Stock? Is it oil or gas on the plugs?
What was done to the motor? Stock? Is it oil or gas on the plugs?
#6
TECH Regular
If the engine and tune are stock you need to scan the PCM to see if all of your sensors are reading correctly. For example, if the coolant temp is open it will read -40 and dump fuel. Check fuel pressure. You should have about 60psi. Also if you have the injector harnesses one the o2 sensor harnesses on the wrong banks it would cause one bank to be full lean and the other full rich.
If the engine is modified then you may just need a good tune.
If the engine is modified then you may just need a good tune.
Trending Topics
#8
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How long did the engine sit while the swap was being undertaken? It is highly likely that a rust ring has been created on the valve faces or seats. It is also possible that the lifters have bled down some, it can take a while for them to fully pump up again. Having owned a machine shop I have seen these symptoms before.
When you did the leak down did you back off the rockers? If not you can get false readings.
I would suggest that you refire the engine and let it run for 15-20 minutes at idle. Let it fully come up to temp, then slowly raise and lower the engine speed similar to doing an flat tappet cam break in. I expect that this will make a big difference. If not go back and repeat the leak test. Leak percentage hot and cold will be different, as will compression (this is really cylinder pressure not actual compression).
When you did the leak down did you back off the rockers? If not you can get false readings.
I would suggest that you refire the engine and let it run for 15-20 minutes at idle. Let it fully come up to temp, then slowly raise and lower the engine speed similar to doing an flat tappet cam break in. I expect that this will make a big difference. If not go back and repeat the leak test. Leak percentage hot and cold will be different, as will compression (this is really cylinder pressure not actual compression).
#9
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What type of injectors are you running? Also what is the PCM you are running the injectors with? It is posssible a couple of your tables are way off...one coming to mind, the table that distinguishes the Flow Rate v. KPA.
What was done to the motor? Stock? Is it oil or gas on the plugs?
What was done to the motor? Stock? Is it oil or gas on the plugs?
#11
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If the engine and tune are stock you need to scan the PCM to see if all of your sensors are reading correctly. For example, if the coolant temp is open it will read -40 and dump fuel. Check fuel pressure. You should have about 60psi. Also if you have the injector harnesses one the o2 sensor harnesses on the wrong banks it would cause one bank to be full lean and the other full rich.
If the engine is modified then you may just need a good tune.
If the engine is modified then you may just need a good tune.
#13
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (1)
You're getting a lean code, both banks, and your plugs are wet and you're running rich. There's your problem. An air leak after the MAF will affect both banks. Other than that, a clogged injector in both banks will look lean, so the ecu will compensate by richening up the others. Or at least that's my understanding.
#14
9 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: on the dyno tuning in MD
Posts: 2,583
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Are you sure your O2's are pinned, wired and hooked up correctly? Check to see what the fronts are reading vs the rears... and bank 1 vs bank 2... unplug one O2 at a time and see which one goes to .450mv - does it correspond to the one you unplugged? It is reporting lean on the O2s and commanding the maxed LTFTs, resulting in an overly rich condition that is then not being seen by the O2s - that's where your problem is - in the O2 sensors/wiring...
#15
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you sure your O2's are pinned, wired and hooked up correctly? Check to see what the fronts are reading vs the rears... and bank 1 vs bank 2... unplug one O2 at a time and see which one goes to .450mv - does it correspond to the one you unplugged? It is reporting lean on the O2s and commanding the maxed LTFTs, resulting in an overly rich condition that is then not being seen by the O2s - that's where your problem is - in the O2 sensors/wiring...
At this point I feel fairly confident that the problem is either sticking injectors or a vacuum leak after the MAF.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I had overlooked the possibility that a sticking injector would look like a lean condition to the PCM.
#16
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update:
I pulled the fuel injectors and tried testing them using a 9V battery. Only 6 of the eight will operate. I guess that 2 of them are stuck closed and will not function. This also explains what I saw with the spark plugs and the other indications I was getting. I had a stuck injector on each side of the engine.
So, how do you "un-stick" an injector. These are the Delphi multec 2 non-flex fuel type injectors. I have tried soaking them in kerosene for about 3 hours with no luck.
I pulled the fuel injectors and tried testing them using a 9V battery. Only 6 of the eight will operate. I guess that 2 of them are stuck closed and will not function. This also explains what I saw with the spark plugs and the other indications I was getting. I had a stuck injector on each side of the engine.
So, how do you "un-stick" an injector. These are the Delphi multec 2 non-flex fuel type injectors. I have tried soaking them in kerosene for about 3 hours with no luck.
#18
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After some more research (I am learning more about injectors than I want to know) I went and checked resistance on all 8 injectors, and all 8 measures about 13 ohms, which is specification for these injectors. So I am back to trying to figure out why 2 of the 8 will not actuate. I guess they are stuck mechanically, but still haven't been able to get them unstuck. Anyone know of something other than soaking them in kerosene that might dissolve whatever is causing them to stick.
#19
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sure enough, it was 2 frozen injectors. I tried and could not get them un-froze. Two salvage yard injectors later and engine runs smooth as silk.
Thanks to aknovaman for the advice. I had totally missed that possibility.
Thanks to aknovaman for the advice. I had totally missed that possibility.
Last edited by neal64ss; 06-20-2012 at 06:55 PM.