HexenLord

I've got a 69 Nova with a 468 big block and TH400. I drive the car a lot on the street but its setup for drag racing, and its a PITA on the street anymore.

So I'm really liking the look/style of the pro-touring cars. I've decided to get a 5.3 from a truck (pricing/availability around here beats the hell out of anything else), put a 76mm turbo on it and a 4L80 behind it all. I'm going to try and pick up power steering and air conditioning as well. I figure once its all said and done, I should have 500% better street manners than what I currently have for about the same weight (big block is iron-headed 454 block). This won't be my first turbo car, but it WILL be my first LS powered car.

Theres a lot of things I still need to know. I know I need a 99+ 5.3, complete with the wiring harness and computer. I'm hoping to get all accessories with it as well, AC compressor, power steering pump, alternator. Is any year 5.3 going to be better than others? I dont think its going to matter for my swap too much is it? Also, I plan on having the car tuned with something like HPtuners so I can use the factory ECU and only have to worry about the hassle of wiring once. Are there any year ECUs that can't be tuned as easily with HPtuners?

As for the 4L80. I know that 5.3s didn't normally come mated to the 4L80, they came with the 4L60 instead. I have the information bookmarked for the pin swap I'll have to do to get it to work, but would it just be easier getting an older, mechanical 4L80 or should I stick with a newer electronic one? How much power will they handle stock? Eventually, I'm getting a 4L80 built, probably by Jake's, and I think they specialize in mechanical ones, so should I get a mechanical one to start with? What year 4L80s are mechanical?

And last but definitely not least, what do I do about interior wiring? The engine wiring should be straight-forward, but then what do I do about whats inside of the car? Should I get a matching interior harness?

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Got the same problem 468 T400, cars just to nose heavy, I too will be switching to a 5.3 with a turbo, for my Nova,

check here,

www.pro-touring.com

www.lateralg.net

This is where all the pro-touring cars are built,

HexenLord

Right, but I wasn't asking pro-touring info.

Was asking which year 5.3 to get, and if I should get mechanical or electronic 4L80 or if it would even matter.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

I didnt know there was a differance in 5.3's, I think the E on the end of the transmission stands for electronic, I don't know if there is a mechanical 4L80E,

chiaj144

iTrader: (4)

I would get an 05 up 5.3 they have better rods. You could pick up an L33 they have better heads and a little bigger cam than your typical 5.3 and you'll get the weight savings with the aluminum block. I can't help you much on the 4l80 I'm running a th400. You could just keep your 400 and go with a 2.73-3.08 gear ratio. I run 3.08's in my car and it's not bad on the highway at all.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Get the 05-07 L33 out of an extended cab Silverado. Alum block and 799 heads. Put a small cam in it. Doesnt really matter on the 4L80E but I tend to err towards the newer ones as they are easier to find in the junkyard ready to go stock. This time I added a Trango HD-2 kit for a little better shifting. Im running a column shift and at the dragstrip I just put it in drive and mash the gas and let the stock computer do the shifting. You can search my username here, on pt.com and Lat-g for lots of info on my setup which was a single turbo 6.0/4L80E and is now a single turbo 5.3/4L80E in a pro-touring type car.

HexenLord

I'd love to run an L33, but I'm having some issues finding one within 50 miles for a decent price... If I want PC/AC pumps, wiring, ECU, I'm looking at almost ~$2000. On the other hand, the local yard (1 mile away) has a 75k mile 5.3 from a 2003 Silverado with all accessories, wiring, ECU for $700.

Maybe I'll buy the cheap one to get it all fabricated up and running, and if it ever goes pop, swap in a newer and lighter L33.

HexenLord

What mods do you have done to the 4L80E? You're car is almost exactly like what I was wanting to do as far as whats under the hood goes.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Transgo HD-2 shift kit and Yank PY3600. Thats it.

Are you sure you can run the truck accessories anyways if you get a truck engine complete?

Novas Forever

The first that came to my mind was you will need lots of spare tires

HexenLord

Im not sure on the truck accessories since im still researching, but i dont see why it would be too much of an issue with the appropriate wiring. Either way, im going to need the accessories eventually, since im going to pick up a complete TCI pro touring kit with subframe, wilwood brakes front and rear, power rack, torque arm rear, currie 9", double adjustable aluminum shocks, sway bars... etc.
Power steering will be a must, A/C can wait until later. I dont see why power steering from the truck couldnt be used as long as i make my own lines.

I found an L33 an hour away with everything for 1500, but i found a similar mileage 01 5.3 with everything for 550 less than a mile from me. Ill probably get the older one for now. Im only shooting for 500whp for the time being. If it ever goes pop, ill get the lighter L33 and a forged rotating assembly to gain some reliability and power.

The E85 will help considering the meijer on the corner sells it cheap.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Make sure you add up all those luxuries such as that frame etc before doing it. Biggest mistake people make building cars is overextending themselves with killer parts and then the car never gets done.

HexenLord

Already got it covered. Everything related to the engine/transmission is going to come out of my weekly salary with all of the overtime I'm working. Already have enough for the engine, actually found an 04 5.3 today for $545+125 core /w everything. Next week will be the transmission, and the week after the turbo/piping. Week after HPTuners, and a couple weeks to save up for a Yank or Circle D converter. TCI chassis is coming out of the bank account since I just sold one of my other cars and have enough to pay for it outright.

I'll probably toss the engine/transmission into the current chassis and make sure everything is at least running and moving before I start on the turbo stuff. Once its all fabbed up, I'll mount it on the TCI chassis and drop the car onto it. The chassis can be pre-assembled before putting it on the car, and its bolt-on so it shouldn't go too bad.

So for now, looks like I'm getting an 04 5.3 /w all accessories, wiring, ECU and I'll try to find a 4L80E from an 01-04 truck as well.

HexenLord

So ive found an L33 with everything for 1200. Not bad at all. Im about to grab a 4L80e next, but dont know what exactly to get.

Will the ECU out of an 05 silverado control any 4L80e from 99+? Im not exactly sure what transmission this engine had behind it so im not sure what to do exactly to get it to work here. I know about the pin swaps for an ecu that used to control a 4L60. Just dont want to end up with the wrong parts.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

That pcm should be fine. You need a transmission segment swap (talk to your tuner) in your pcm, swap a couple wires (do a search) and add the input speed sensor to the pcm.

HexenLord

So its time to start collecting parts, but I have a ton of questions and digging just gives me conflicting information. Sorry if I come off as a complete newb but I'm young and ambitious lol.

1. The engine has no flex-plate. I need a flexplate and a converter. I've been looking at both Circle D and Yank converters and I realize I'll need a matching flexplate. I've also heard that with the 4L80E on an L33 I may need a spacer/adapter for the flexplate for proper spacing. Anyone have any suggestions as to what converter/flexplate I should get for a 76mm L33/4L80E street car and if a spacer/adapter will be needed?

2. I have the truck intake manifold and want to swap to an LS1/LS6 manifold. I've heard I have to swap over to an F-body water pump if I make this swap, is this true? Also, are there any differences in fuel rails, injector clips, or injector lengths between the truck and LS6 manifolds?

3. Oil pans. I know that the truck pan will sit too low to the ground in my Nova. I plan on swapping over to a TCI subframe and while the truck pan may still clear, it still has to go. My understanding is that my options are either aftermarket pan, or F-body LS1 pan. Either of them seem to work. Will I have to swap pickups/baffles? As far as aftermarket pans go, the 7 QT Moroso pan seems to be the cheapest at around $200 on ebay. Do I use the stock F-body pickup tube and has anyone had problems using this pan? It looks easy enough to drill/tab for oil return but I wasn't sure if there was any issues with this pan that more experienced people have run into.

4. I plan on flipping the manifolds forward for a turbo build. Is welding V-bands necessary to clear the stock 3rd gen Nova subframe or can I get 3-bolt flanges and build my system off of completely stock manifolds?

5. I'll dig up a whole ton of questions once I start digging into this engine.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

1. Get the flexplate from whomever you order the converter from. They have affordable options.
2. You will either need a F body water pump, modify the truck water outlet, or use an 07 up truck water pump to clear. Injectors, connectors, and fuel rails are different. Use the stuff that fits the LS1/6 intake you are using. You can buy the "EV1" style injector plugs and slice them on.
3. Im using a stock Fbody pan and havent used any others so cant comment there but I do believe the stock cast pans have better sealing properties than any sheetmetal type pan can offer.
4. You absolutely need the v band on the drivers side truck manifold in order to have it down and forward on a stock subframe car. I believe I was the first to do this on a Nova. Your TCI subframe will likely have more clearance and your just going to have to mock up manifolds once you get the subframe and engine installed in the car. An LS4 manifold works well as is on the passenger side but the three bolt flange is unique to the design so a v band may be a better option there.

HexenLord

1. Looks like Ill be getting a Yank with flexplate, just not sure what stall yet. Will be mostly a street car, so something below 4000. No spacers needed?

2. Ill stick with the truck intake and water pump for now. Need to get it in and running on as much of a budget as i can to keep the woman happy, then Ill be able to upgrade here and there without much hassle.

3. Ive found an Fbody pan and pickup tube for around 200. Ill keep looking to see what else I can find price wise but that appears to be the route Im going.

4. I may try up and forward first unless I have issues clearing the hood, but I would ultimately prefer down and forward.

Thanks for the help LS1NOVA.

HexenLord

Would a yank SS 3200 be enough stall for a 5.3/4L80 with a 76mm? Its going in a light car that will see lots of street time. Im not worried too bad about spool.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

I have a Yank PY3600 in mine and I wouldnt want anything lower. The smaller engines need a little bit more stall to get into the torque peak sooner.