View Poll Results: Which k-member do you prefer?
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Fox LS-swap k-member options...
10-23-2012, 10:39 AM
#61
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Upside of the F body pan is ground clearance. The truck pan hangs 1 1/2 - 2" below the K member. I have also seen a lot of guys use the CTS-V pan. Not sure of the difference, I think the sump is a little farther back from the front.
If it helps, when I was reading up on my swap, most of the guys were using F body or CTS-V pans. So if you can get your hands on a CTS-V pan, I'd try it too with your new mounts, if not, just note on your site what pans are known to work.
Thanks for making us parts.
If it helps, when I was reading up on my swap, most of the guys were using F body or CTS-V pans. So if you can get your hands on a CTS-V pan, I'd try it too with your new mounts, if not, just note on your site what pans are known to work.
Thanks for making us parts.
10-23-2012, 04:22 PM
#64
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10-23-2012, 05:15 PM
#65
Dave
Make it fit around the 21150 moroso pan.
This pan is a little bigger than the stock f body.
I use this pan on my car. Very comon pan to use the stock F body pan has issues and the 21150 fixes them.
Advantages over the 20140 is the alum construction trap doors and windage tray that clears stroker cranks.
Call me if you want some pics of my car.
Tim
Make it fit around the 21150 moroso pan.
This pan is a little bigger than the stock f body.
I use this pan on my car. Very comon pan to use the stock F body pan has issues and the 21150 fixes them.
Advantages over the 20140 is the alum construction trap doors and windage tray that clears stroker cranks.
Call me if you want some pics of my car.
Tim
10-23-2012, 08:58 PM
#66
We will develop a mount the will allow the use of the F body pan in the next couple of weeks.
I do have a question though What is the up side of the F body pan and why is the truck pan bad? Excuse my ignorance, we get allot of GM engines through here but all of them use aftermarket pans. My main concern is building the best product for the money with the best fit!
Thanks Dave @ Team Z
I do have a question though What is the up side of the F body pan and why is the truck pan bad? Excuse my ignorance, we get allot of GM engines through here but all of them use aftermarket pans. My main concern is building the best product for the money with the best fit!
Thanks Dave @ Team Z
Dave my username here is The same as in the e-mails we just exchanged Saturday.
We talked about the car pan fitment, I assume that its going to be a few weeks or so before you can get your hands on a F-Body pan. If you are going thru a retool may as well address the upper plate to mount bolt interference on the engine block as well.
We all love your products and your customer service
I'm a big mustang guy who recently switched to LSX power and there is definitely a learning curve.
Most (?) people who are doing the "LSX" swap in a fox are starting with a iron block 4.8/5.3/6.0 which all come with the deeper sumped rear pan.
Most of us will want to swap to a car oil pan for ground clearance issues.
So a "plug and play" kit for those of us with no fab skills is what I would want given the choice.
Truck Pan hangs kinda low for some people.
10-25-2012, 11:24 AM
#68
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In all honesty I want to give you guy what you want, it will be hard to do a 1 size fits all, but I will try, looking at the Truck pan in the picture the sump doesn't hang any lower than an aftermarket ford fox body pan, and there isn't usually any issues with ground clearance.
Is anyone using the LS power plant in auto cross, we are doing a heavy street / auto cross version of the K member and need to know if the LS power plant is used in auto cross.
Is anyone using the LS power plant in auto cross, we are doing a heavy street / auto cross version of the K member and need to know if the LS power plant is used in auto cross.
11-11-2012, 08:31 PM
#74
This is Dave Zimmerman I am the owner of Team Z Motor sports, Someone sent me a link to this thread.
I was un aware that the F body pan wouldn't fit until a short while ago, so we are working on a fix.
I would like to explain how we went about building this K member. We used a LSX block with a Morosso pan, we did this swap for a company that builds LS crate motors for GM. When we developed the mount system we basically put the engine where we wanted it to be based on our experience with fox body cars over the last 15 years, there were some compromises but we placed the engine where we felt it would work best in a fox body.
I have to take some blame on the pan issue I'm so used to the Mustang culture, nobody runs a stock pan on a small block ford because they pretty much suck...LOL..Had I known the F body pan was the hot ticket I would have made sure it would work. That's My bad we don't get enough LS based engines through our shop, if we had I would have defiantly taken the F body pan into consideration. We will develop a mount the will allow the use of the F body pan in the next couple of weeks.
I do have a question though What is the up side of the F body pan and why is the truck pan bad? Excuse my ignorance, we get allot of GM engines through here but all of them use aftermarket pans. My main concern is building the best product for the money with the best fit!
Thanks Dave @ Team Z
I was un aware that the F body pan wouldn't fit until a short while ago, so we are working on a fix.
I would like to explain how we went about building this K member. We used a LSX block with a Morosso pan, we did this swap for a company that builds LS crate motors for GM. When we developed the mount system we basically put the engine where we wanted it to be based on our experience with fox body cars over the last 15 years, there were some compromises but we placed the engine where we felt it would work best in a fox body.
I have to take some blame on the pan issue I'm so used to the Mustang culture, nobody runs a stock pan on a small block ford because they pretty much suck...LOL..Had I known the F body pan was the hot ticket I would have made sure it would work. That's My bad we don't get enough LS based engines through our shop, if we had I would have defiantly taken the F body pan into consideration. We will develop a mount the will allow the use of the F body pan in the next couple of weeks.
I do have a question though What is the up side of the F body pan and why is the truck pan bad? Excuse my ignorance, we get allot of GM engines through here but all of them use aftermarket pans. My main concern is building the best product for the money with the best fit!
Thanks Dave @ Team Z
11-12-2012, 03:01 AM
#75
Any luck on the new mounts yet? I ordered my Team-Z k-member last week and it should be here Tuesday. Was just curious what the status is on the mounts. I haven't ordered them yet because I wanted to wait and see what you come up with. I needed the k-member to get the car back on 4-wheels, so I went ahead and ordered it and the C/C plates. Thanks!!
11-12-2012, 12:47 PM
#76
Im running a PA racing k-member and the 1 inch shorter a-arms too.... this is a moly k member and i made my own motor mounts, this also was a 1 1/2 drop rack too...... i used a camaro pan. fit was great for me where i could put the motor where i wanted it and used the dyatech headers too...
11-12-2012, 09:29 PM
#77
I run the Fbody Pan and the Team Z Kmember...
I'm not using motor mounts, I'm using Motor plates.
My plates were designed to put the Crank at the same height as the stock one in an sn95 body(which uses teh same frame as the foxbody), and I ended up setting my motor back quite a bit as well and down about an inch from "stock" height.
being able to move it back is what made the difference in making mine work.
I still question if my engine sits too high or not as I have no reference as the donor car was a 4cylinder.
I would like a measurement from the lip on the frame rail down to the center of the crank if anybody can take a measurement for me.
My F-body pan fits sort of..., but not in the "stock" conversion motor mount location
again.. I'm on a motor plate, with travel limiters...so the tight spacing is not really an issue.
I still plan on updating to the Moroso Pan with baffles later when I have more cash to spend and I am further along in the project
I'm not using motor mounts, I'm using Motor plates.
My plates were designed to put the Crank at the same height as the stock one in an sn95 body(which uses teh same frame as the foxbody), and I ended up setting my motor back quite a bit as well and down about an inch from "stock" height.
being able to move it back is what made the difference in making mine work.
I still question if my engine sits too high or not as I have no reference as the donor car was a 4cylinder.
I would like a measurement from the lip on the frame rail down to the center of the crank if anybody can take a measurement for me.
My F-body pan fits sort of..., but not in the "stock" conversion motor mount location
again.. I'm on a motor plate, with travel limiters...so the tight spacing is not really an issue.
I still plan on updating to the Moroso Pan with baffles later when I have more cash to spend and I am further along in the project
11-13-2012, 07:43 AM
#80
you need the Pickup and windage tray as well....
and then you need the remote oil filter to go with that as well....
Its a considerable chunk more than $235
try this one...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/21150/10002/-1
plus you still need an oil filter relocation package
this is the more budget friendly package that may work as well...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/302-1/10002/-1
but it is only a 5.5qt pan... probably good enough for the street, but I would want something more if I were doing a car that goes to the track
Last edited by soundengineer; 11-13-2012 at 07:49 AM.