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any help with 6.0 LS2 swap into 2000 Mustang GT

 
Old 08-14-2012, 05:46 PM
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Default any help with 6.0 LS2 swap into 2000 Mustang GT

alright, I have a 2000 mustang gt..and everyone knows they do not have the power needed. I have been looking around on doing a engine swap. I decided to go with a 6.0 LS2 with a T56 trans. I have read tons of forums into this swap but im still cloudy on a detailed way to wire the LS engine into my mustang. I know about the AJE cross member that i can use. So really any information regarding the clutch, brakes, wiring, gauges, or any other info on this swap would help ALOT! I am really ready to get this swap underway because i have always been a fan of the LS power Thank you!
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:17 PM
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This interest me as well, my girl has a 00 mustang and its a .. it will most likely get my ls1, when I get my new engine finished for my car..
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:42 PM
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yeah theres just alot of little things I need help with so I can start shopping list of parts I need..
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:43 PM
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I will most likely be calling PSI conversion on a stand alone harness to use and possibly use the GM gauge cluster or build a custom cluster.
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:53 PM
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ok... I am going to group this according to areas.

Swapping the engine:
You can use your factory K-member and 4.6 mounts. UPR makes an adaptor to swap the mounts onto the LSX engines. The T56 can swap with either a custom mount, or modifying the factory one. you can start with a mount from an 03-04 cobra as those had T56 from the factory. the clutch will need to be converted to hydro. Wilwood and a few other companies make conversions for the fox and fox 4 platform.

Wiring:
You can make your own standalone (or I can do it for you, have done a few on here now and many outside of LS1tech) or get one from one of the vendors here.
now to make the factory gauges working is going to be easy. here is how you are going to do it. you are going to leave the factory computer alone. and make it think the engine is still there, minus a cam or crank signal. The ECM will think the car is on, but not running. you are going to go to the bulkhead connector near the passenger side where the harness comes through the firewall, and remove the injector wires, coilpack, crank, cam, TPS, IAC, EGR, fuel pressure sensor, and emissions wiring, leaving the water temp, and oil pressure wiring. now you can use the factory sensors on their respective locations on the LS engine. watertemp can go on the rear of the passenger head, and the oil pressure on the rear where it was factory on the LS. The LS computer does not care about oil pressure. just shorten or extend the wiring as needed to make the ford harness work. The ford ecm will take the signals and run the respective gauges. As for the tach you are going to go to the ECM in the passenger kick panel, and go to pin 48. that is the output to the tach, just connect that to the tach outout from the harness for your LS. The speedo will be simular. Take the VSS output from your LS harness, and purchase a Dakota Digital SGI-5 to intercept the signal from the GM ECM and then from the output to pin68. That will run the speedo. That will allow you to keep all your factory gauges.

Fuel system:
Your car is a returnless system. To make it work you are going to have to make some changes. The factory pump is completely computer controlled. there is a fuel pressure sensor (FPS) in the fuel rail that monitors pressure, and a FPDM (Fuel pump driver module) in the trunk that regulates pump voltage to maintain pressure. To convert it to a return style and use a corvette filter/regulator combo, you will need to pick up a early 98 mustang fuel pump hat. It will bolt into the tank, and give you the return line you need to use the corvette filter. You can then use the factory fuel lines (with some mods....) to get the regulated fuel to the engine bay. You are also going to bypass the FPDM and with a relay, power the pump with the GM fuel pump output signal. If you need any clarification, i will help.

Brakes:
You can make brackets and use the ford pump/hydroboost, or you can convert to V6 booster and MC. It all bolts in and will give you vacuum assist brakes.
If you want to keep ABS, you can use the VSS signal method listed above and instead of cutting the wire to pin 68, you can splice from the SIG-5 and let the ECM have VSS signal, this will also let you keep cruise.


If there is any more info, or more detailed info. let me know. Also if you want, shoot me a PM and i will give you my number and talk you about it.


Charlie
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Old 08-14-2012, 10:02 PM
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That writeup is just what I needed! It will deff help me get started on the parts side of the swap
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:53 PM
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well i decided im just gonna use a Team Z kmember with their a arms and coilovers, and ill just be using 4l60e trans with a nice stall (not sure what size yet?)for the ease of the swap and a tad bit cheaper.
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:27 PM
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Great info Charlie, much appreciated by many!
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:19 AM
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Bookmarking this page! Thanks Charlie!
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:05 AM
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As a former owner of a built 2004 Mustang Gt I'm very curious how this turns out
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Old 06-27-2017, 04:24 PM
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Charlie - Thank you for that writeup!! Great info! We are about to dive int o this for a customers car and that will help a ton.
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:18 PM
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So would it be safe to assume that I could use the Granatelli fuel pump hat on my 01 Mustang stock fuel tank and just use an external pump and my own lines? I'm trying to avoid sumping the tank or getting an aftermarket tank.
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Old 12-25-2017, 12:40 PM
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Default LQ4 2004mustang swap

Originally Posted by Chrome_Rust View Post
ok... I am going to group this according to areas.

Swapping the engine:
You can use your factory K-member and 4.6 mounts. UPR makes an adaptor to swap the mounts onto the LSX engines. The T56 can swap with either a custom mount, or modifying the factory one. you can start with a mount from an 03-04 cobra as those had T56 from the factory. the clutch will need to be converted to hydro. Wilwood and a few other companies make conversions for the fox and fox 4 platform.

Wiring:
You can make your own standalone (or I can do it for you, have done a few on here now and many outside of LS1tech) or get one from one of the vendors here.
now to make the factory gauges working is going to be easy. here is how you are going to do it. you are going to leave the factory computer alone. and make it think the engine is still there, minus a cam or crank signal. The ECM will think the car is on, but not running. you are going to go to the bulkhead connector near the passenger side where the harness comes through the firewall, and remove the injector wires, coilpack, crank, cam, TPS, IAC, EGR, fuel pressure sensor, and emissions wiring, leaving the water temp, and oil pressure wiring. now you can use the factory sensors on their respective locations on the LS engine. watertemp can go on the rear of the passenger head, and the oil pressure on the rear where it was factory on the LS. The LS computer does not care about oil pressure. just shorten or extend the wiring as needed to make the ford harness work. The ford ecm will take the signals and run the respective gauges. As for the tach you are going to go to the ECM in the passenger kick panel, and go to pin 48. that is the output to the tach, just connect that to the tach outout from the harness for your LS. The speedo will be simular. Take the VSS output from your LS harness, and purchase a Dakota Digital SGI-5 to intercept the signal from the GM ECM and then from the output to pin68. That will run the speedo. That will allow you to keep all your factory gauges.

Fuel system:
Your car is a returnless system. To make it work you are going to have to make some changes. The factory pump is completely computer controlled. there is a fuel pressure sensor (FPS) in the fuel rail that monitors pressure, and a FPDM (Fuel pump driver module) in the trunk that regulates pump voltage to maintain pressure. To convert it to a return style and use a corvette filter/regulator combo, you will need to pick up a early 98 mustang fuel pump hat. It will bolt into the tank, and give you the return line you need to use the corvette filter. You can then use the factory fuel lines (with some mods....) to get the regulated fuel to the engine bay. You are also going to bypass the FPDM and with a relay, power the pump with the GM fuel pump output signal. If you need any clarification, i will help.

Brakes:
You can make brackets and use the ford pump/hydroboost, or you can convert to V6 booster and MC. It all bolts in and will give you vacuum assist brakes.
If you want to keep ABS, you can use the VSS signal method listed above and instead of cutting the wire to pin 68, you can splice from the SIG-5 and let the ECM have VSS signal, this will also let you keep cruise.


If there is any more info, or more detailed info. let me know. Also if you want, shoot me a PM and i will give you my number and talk you about it.


Charlie
LQ4 mustang swap will need it wired up hope u can help. Also will a 6l80 fit in a 2004 mustang?
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:01 PM
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Hey I'll be bdoing the same swap, what is needed for the pedal to work with the t 56 and to mate it to the engine? Thanks.
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Old 06-15-2019, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrome_Rust View Post
ok... I am going to group this according to areas.

Swapping the engine:
You can use your factory K-member and 4.6 mounts. UPR makes an adaptor to swap the mounts onto the LSX engines. The T56 can swap with either a custom mount, or modifying the factory one. you can start with a mount from an 03-04 cobra as those had T56 from the factory. the clutch will need to be converted to hydro. Wilwood and a few other companies make conversions for the fox and fox 4 platform.

Wiring:
You can make your own standalone (or I can do it for you, have done a few on here now and many outside of LS1tech) or get one from one of the vendors here.
now to make the factory gauges working is going to be easy. here is how you are going to do it. you are going to leave the factory computer alone. and make it think the engine is still there, minus a cam or crank signal. The ECM will think the car is on, but not running. you are going to go to the bulkhead connector near the passenger side where the harness comes through the firewall, and remove the injector wires, coilpack, crank, cam, TPS, IAC, EGR, fuel pressure sensor, and emissions wiring, leaving the water temp, and oil pressure wiring. now you can use the factory sensors on their respective locations on the LS engine. watertemp can go on the rear of the passenger head, and the oil pressure on the rear where it was factory on the LS. The LS computer does not care about oil pressure. just shorten or extend the wiring as needed to make the ford harness work. The ford ecm will take the signals and run the respective gauges. As for the tach you are going to go to the ECM in the passenger kick panel, and go to pin 48. that is the output to the tach, just connect that to the tach outout from the harness for your LS. The speedo will be simular. Take the VSS output from your LS harness, and purchase a Dakota Digital SGI-5 to intercept the signal from the GM ECM and then from the output to pin68. That will run the speedo. That will allow you to keep all your factory gauges.

Fuel system:
Your car is a returnless system. To make it work you are going to have to make some changes. The factory pump is completely computer controlled. there is a fuel pressure sensor (FPS) in the fuel rail that monitors pressure, and a FPDM (Fuel pump driver module) in the trunk that regulates pump voltage to maintain pressure. To convert it to a return style and use a corvette filter/regulator combo, you will need to pick up a early 98 mustang fuel pump hat. It will bolt into the tank, and give you the return line you need to use the corvette filter. You can then use the factory fuel lines (with some mods....) to get the regulated fuel to the engine bay. You are also going to bypass the FPDM and with a relay, power the pump with the GM fuel pump output signal. If you need any clarification, i will help.

Brakes:
You can make brackets and use the ford pump/hydroboost, or you can convert to V6 booster and MC. It all bolts in and will give you vacuum assist brakes.
If you want to keep ABS, you can use the VSS signal method listed above and instead of cutting the wire to pin 68, you can splice from the SIG-5 and let the ECM have VSS signal, this will also let you keep cruise.


If there is any more info, or more detailed info. let me know. Also if you want, shoot me a PM and i will give you my number and talk you about it.


Charlie
Great write up thanks. Doing this myself
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