BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Just wondering about those that may have ditched or kept using dexcool after completing the swap.

I personally hate dexcool (orange coolant)

Since the motor is still out, I was thinking of removing one of the blocks lower coolant plugs and running hot water and maybe a little cleaning solution through the block to flush out any of that old dexcool crap and then when it comes time to fill the system fill her up with some green coolant.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Chances are any car that gets an LS swap never had dexcool, and really shouldnt need it. Personally I think dexcool is only needed in a car that a customer will never want to have any preventative maintenance done to besides oil changes and tire rotations. But that's just me.

If I were you just run some water through the water pump port until you just get clear water out the other end. The plugs can be a bitch to remove

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

I've been running the "universal" OAT stuff from work. Don't confuse this with the old green stuff though. I wouldn't run the old style coolant with an LS engine. They were designed for use with organic coolants that don't contain silicates.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I used it when I did my first swap 12 years ago and didn't know any better, thought it should have had it. But since it wasn't on a sealed system, it gunked up the radiator and I ended up flushing it and using the green stuff. Been using green since with no problems.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I don't use it in anything I own. I've seen too much brown sludge in sealed factory cars to trust it.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

I went green with my 280 and never looked back.

Does that make me a tree hugger?

John McGraw

Dexcool was the worst stuff that was ever sold as a coolant! I would never use it again. I don't know if you can even buy it anymore, can you? The OAT stuff is the way to go. The old stuff had silicates, which makes for lower seal and bearing life.


Regards, John McGraw

216StealthSS

Its just a extended life coolant, 150,000mi intervals on changes... stupid. mine is coming out this winter with my cam swap... but i agree with this guy!

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I am using the green stuff too.. .no problem and I only use the Dexcool on car/trucks that came with it. But would never used it on my Swaps..

216StealthSS. Before you swap over to the Green stuff.. make sure you flush out the Dexcool. Leaving any in and mixing with the Green will create sludge in your system !

I would start flushing it a few with water a time before adding Green, would let it heat cycle also during the flush.

BC

666ws6

iTrader: (3)

I don't drive my TA in the winter and I also now live in the south so I do distilled water and redline.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Aluminum parts need the corrosion inhibitors of an antifreeze. Antifreeze also lubes the water pump bearings. Unless the redline has that stuff what you are doing may not be a good idea.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Interesting article, ought to raise the confusion factor. Says to not use OAT stuff with copper-brass radiators, only the green stuff. don't know what to think about silicates vs. phosphates.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...oducts/1272436

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I used it in mine. Looks like that might not have been the greatest idea?

I still have a stock Chevelle radiator that is copper.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

So you guys think I should wait till the motor is in and running, get it to operating temps and do a flush.

Or try and flush some of that crap out now while I still have it on the stand?

I have a car with the dexcool in it now, system is pretty tight after multiple pressure checks and it still turns brown and sludges up. So far I've had to flush the system 3 times within 2 year span, wasn't sure if I really got every drop of it out or not so I never converted over to green stuff on that car. Do not want to mix those two together .

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Any product with a class action lawsuit against it is not going in my car. 30 seconds of flushing with the hose followed by green antifreeze here.
Btw, whe I initially start a new engine, I only use water in case of a leak. So a flush is no big deal. A hose and duct tape is all that's needed.

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

I ran straight water when I got it up and running (22k mile GTO package) and flushed that after a few hundred miles. Now I'm using the "normal" green stuff and haven't noticed any issues or gunk in the fluid after a little over a year.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Yes, roll it over on the stand and pour the crap out, you can pour water in it to flush the old out. That's usually the first thing I do now, just so antifreeze doesn't leak out on the garage floor, it never dries and makes such a mess. I too run straight water like others have said during first start up in case something leaks, then drain and refill with 50/50 mix.

muncie21

iTrader: (14)

Looks like I may be in the minority, but I haven't had an issue with Dexcool and run it in 4 of my vehicles. I have read that the issues with Dexcool were related to air entering the cooling system and causing an unwanted reaction due to air entering your cooling system. Based on this, if there were no leaks in your system, this wouldn't be an issue.

Not wanting to hijack the thread with a "traditional vs. Dexcool" discussion, rather pointing out my reason for not switching back to traditional 'green' coolant.

John McGraw

Yep, but few of us are actually using copper/brass radiators nowadays.

Aluminum engines and aluminum radiators.



Regards, John McGraw

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Not exactly true, just because you don't have any leaks, doesn't mean air won't get in, as an open system, one with out an overflow that sucks coolant back in, when the the coolant gets hot it expands, and when it cools it WILL pull air back in, this is what makes it turn to mud. Ask me how I know.....