speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I used the Mast pan. It has been an excellent piece.

Alwhite00

iTrader: (1)

I have my 302-2 pan bolted to my 6.0 and hope to slide it in place this week and will report back when I do so. Waiting for the weather to get above 0 for a day.

Mikes64

Know you had some problems getting one, let me know how it works out. May catch it on your thread, need to get one ordered!

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Holy old posts, I know Batman. Since there's a collective group here, thought it'd be ok to ask?

Putting an LQ4 6.0 in a 64 Malibu 4 door. Frame is at proper ride height, don't know of any flat spots I could pull level off of, engine is 3-4 degrees down, fbody oil pan, notched crossmember.

The driver's side of the firewall where the gas pedal rod dimple protrudes is causing interference with my bellhousing. It's blocking the 10 o'clock bolt hole, can't get bellhousing installed with engine in place.

Anyone else running into this? I'm most likely going DBW, so the pedal will be gone, just want to make sure I'm not doing something stupid?

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

I looked at mine last night and it is pretty close to the body right there, but it does not hit. With the motor leaned back you should have no issues bolting everything up and then jack it all up into place. What motor mounts are you using? maybe yours is sitting a bit further back then mine.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Lol, completely shot myself in the foot getting a BRP swap off craigslist. I shortened the engine mounts so that the engine is just about touching the tie rod ends @ full lock. These aren't even 64 chevelle mounts, I'm just going to burn them in place once I get everything figured out. Can't really move forward till I can get the trans bolted up to see how much trans tunnel I have to work on. I like your t-cuts, but I might cut the top of the tunnel off and raise it. (stupid idea?)

Only good that came out of this is I can put the engine where ever I need to. I clamped a straight edge across the frame horns pulling measurements from the upper a-arm mounting blocks on the frame. Using that to make sure the engine is sitting straight, have level across valley cover, and angle finder near knock sensors.

mounts



shortened



"dialed" in





I cut notches in the frame, went a little overboard so the plate I'm welding in will line up w/ the factory center. No where near as tidy as what you did. After this pic I slide the engine back so I'd have a finger gap between frame and pan. That's where I want final placement and where I'm having issues getting the bellhousing on. It will about clear the flexplate, can't wait to try it w/ flywheel installed.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

That's not a bad way to do the tunnel either. I've done a few now and this link here is now my go to method. I did this on my buddies 66 chevelle this year. It's quite a bit of work, but the end result is so much cleaner.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...cars-40-a.html

shawn hoger

Just a reminder, the drivetrain is suppose to be offset to the passenger side 1/2" I believe from the chassis centerline.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for posting that! I was even thinking about getting a fbody trans tunnel and grafting it in. This seems a lot easier. Hoping to start cutting into the tunnel soon, tired of seeing the trans on the floor.

​​​​​​​I've got a lot of people telling me that but I honestly can't find evidence of the offset? Engine mounts are identical, pulled tape on factory trans cross member, it's perfectly square? There's no mention of it in my service or assembly manuals? Does anyone have a factory car they measured or is this a passed along wives tale? (Genuinely asking)

shawn hoger

If you square up the car and find the chassis centerline the pinion should be a 1/2" over.

Toddoky

Check out the photo in post #57 of the Hooker 1964-67 A-body LS swap system thread and you can see the string on my plumb bob attached to the transmission output shaft offset to the passenger side of the centerline string...the 1st-gen F-body SB cars are the only GM applications I've designed swap kits for that did not have a pronounced engine/trans offset to the passenger side of the car from the factory. The offset is sometimes built into the engine mounts, and sometimes into the engine crossmember itself.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Thank you Todd! I appreciate you hanging out and providing support to everyone!

Went through your entire thread, were you ever able to dig up a part number for the 93-95 camaro V6 power steering pump pulley?

Turns out I have the engine too far back, reason I'm running into issues.

Toddoky

The pulley part number is 14100597...it works great, but you have to press it on about 1/16" past the end of the shaft for proper belt alignment.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Thank you Todd, again, greatly appreciated!