914turboford

This is an amazing build. Very sweet. Amazing attention to detail. Exceptional workmanship.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I thought about that too tigger, however my video would have shown me drinking/getting drunk and not working on the car.

Awesome attention to detail OP.

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

That is what video editing is for my friend! Haha! Thanks for the kind words fellas. Should have some more pictures and another time lapse soon!

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

First off, I highly approve of the color!

Second, where are you sourcing the sound deadening supplies?

Andrew

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

1 Under hood sound/ heat mat boom mat DEI DEI-050130 $68.95 $68.95


1 Aluminum/ fiberglass floor and tunnel shield DEI DEI-050502 $72.95 $72.95



1 Spray on sound deadener (2 gal) Lizzard Skin LIZ-50115 $153.95 $153.95

^^^^^ Those three I sourced from summit racing.
----------------------------------------------------


1 Peel & stick mega mat constrained layer damper tiles 50SF Fatmat --- $129.99 $129.99


8 Peel & stick BXT II closed cell foam Ensolite --- $19.96 $181.17


1 Peel & stick mass loaded vinyl 135SF 1/8"T x 4.5' x 30' Sound Away 11006 $236.25 $333.05 y


2 Lead seam tape 2" x 54' Sound Away 18001 $38.00 $93.37

^^^Search google for those 4. The soundaway and fatmat I bought from the manufacture. The ensolite is from a place called raamaudio.

I copy and pasted that from MS Excel so it might be a little out of format, but you should be able to figure it out!

You need twice as much constrained layer damper tiles, as listed here to do a z. (For full coverage, double in some spots. Which is way overkill so you could get away with whats listed here. The other batch I bought is NLA that is why I didn't list it.)

The mass loaded vinyl amount is a little overkill, but I found it was better to buy it in bulk because its the only good peel and stick source I found, and was barely more expensive than buying a small batch of non peel n stick.

The amount of ensolite foam listed is just right.

I would have sprayed on another two gallons of lizzard skin if I had it at the time, but 2 gallons does get a decent coat on there.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for that info.

I used products from Cascade audio in my GTO, but they are very expensive. I was wondering if there is a less costly alternative. I want to add some more to my floors and a few other areas.

You might want to look into the Cascade Audio VB-2 for the doors.

Andrew

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

I have a certain way I go about managing sound. The main thing is mass. The more mass between you and the sound, the less sound. There's really no alternative, at least in automotive (limited space) applications. Not many places will tell you this, but its the truth. The mass loaded vinyl (MLV) I use is 1lb per sq ft. I believe its somewhere between 1/8 or 3/16 thick. [I'd tell u exactly but I'm in the mountains with sketchy service right now.]

There are slightly denser MLV options, but they are much higher priced, and not much denser. The only cost effective alternative is lead, but lead does not like having adhesive applied to it which presents a problem in cases where adhesively applied carpet, etc need applied over it.

My best results are with CLD tiles (bubble gum consistency) applied in a single layer with 100% coverage, doubling and sometimes tripling up in the center of very resonant panels (only double/ tripling in a small portion of the panel in its center.)

Follow the CLD tiles with a closed cell foam to decouple the CLD tiles from the final top layer of MLV. You just don't want the MLV touching the surface that is amplifying sound. This step is less critical, and is the only step you could consider skipping.

The final top layer of MLV is the most important part. Mass turns sound waves into heat. The more mass the better. MLV, lead, cement, whatever your space permits. The more mass the better. It is important however to stop panels from resonating before attempting to block sound with mass.

Jimbo1367

^^^^^^
what he said.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

I hate to be the bad news bear... but rawr.

I would probably upgrade from those U-joint axles if I were you. First time this car hooks up, you'll be u-joint shopping. When i got rid of the u-joints, I got rid of several noises as well - even though the u-joints were in great shape.

Just my "been there, broke that" comment for the day.

Looks like a sweet project!

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

The R200 has been moved to give the drivers half shaft adequate travel and the car is at stock ride height so angles should be about the best they will get.

Im using solid non greasable U joints. (Most the non greasable U joints for these are still hollow, the ones Im running are true solid joints.)

I know it's a risk, Im not worried about breaking anything, but I am worried about noise/ vibration. Time will tell. Ill upgrade to CV halfshafts only if necessary.

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

By the way, you can follow more periodic updates of the build by liking (subscribing) to my facebook page, or by following my instagram.

Facebook
Instagram

Zfan

X2, snapped a few and said forget this and went with the 300ZXT rear end, CV axles and custom billet stubs. I have plenty of 9 second passes since with no broken parts.

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

What u joints were you guys running? My gut tells me these solid u joints won't break. It's an automatic, mid 12 second car, with narrow street tires...

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

He's running a CV setup.

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

I understand that. What u joint setups were (past tense) you running, before you switched to CV setups.

I'm well aware of the benefits of CV joints. I do however think that in this application the u joints will be fine. Assuming they don't make any unwanted NVH. Only time will tell. I can't measure axle angles until the car is at full weight. It does have factory coil springs on it though. (New nissan units replaced within the last decade)

I'm just looking to see if you guys were breaking the factory hollow u joints.

I have read a few people mentioning breaking the hollow units, and having success switching to the solid units.

You have to be careful though, Nissan makes a non greasable u joint that is still hollow. Neapco brand Brute Force line u joints are the only solid u joints available. I think Nissan offered a true solid joint at one time, but it is NLA if they did.

Anyways, were you breaking hollow or solid joints

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

Since I'm not going to get around to an in depth update for a little while, heres some pictures I snagged from my instagram/ facebook page. Enjoy.

Few pics of the shifter linkage and range sensor. Upper differential mount (has a rubber snub that goes on it). Im getting ready to fab a skid plate/ belly pan mount now, thats why the cross member is back out.

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

Experimented with some up close time lapses using a Galaxy Nexus and an app called "Lapse It". Didn't come out too shabby. Turn it to 720p for the best quality, it loads even on my slow connection.

These videos show:

*Building vents to dump air from the engine bay to the front wheel wells. They utilize passages in the frame rails that used to transport air from the front of the car into the cabin. The OEM rubber ducts from the engine bay to core support are no longer used, so now there is a direct path for air to travel from the engine bay, out into the low pressure wheel wells. (Hopefully) They aren't quite big enough (they should be larger than the size of the hole for incoming radiator air), but they should help alleviate some of the front end lift these Zs experience from the engine bay filling up with air like a parachute.

*Fabing a mount on the front suspension cross member to attach an oil pan skid plate, and a belly pan to go between the cross member and the air dam.

*Final assembly of the front suspension


Enjoy. (BTW, you might want to read the video descriptions, theres some cool info about the rate of the time lapse, etc.)

tylert14

iTrader: (11)

240dan

Hey, very nice high quality build you've got there. To answer your question on the solid cross u-joints I also think you'll be fine with your intended purpose. I ran the stock halfshafts with solid u-joints for the first 18 months or so after I got my car running. At the time it was putting down 450whp, running DOT-R tires, and doing an open track day every month or two. I did finally break a stock stub axle but those halfshafts never missed a beat.

Zfan

I was putting down close to 400 rwhp running high ten's and I snapped 280Z stub axles and busted 3 half shafts. I was done with stock components.