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Got @400 miles on the ATK Performance 5.3.
Just picked it up from the tuner last night. He had an issue where the ECM was locked down, but didn't look like the previous tuner had locked it
It took him a few days (holidays) to get HP Tuners to do their magic, but they managed to get it sorted.
I had sent it off before to a member on here, for a tune and trans settings. It always shifted HARD, and wouldn't do the 1-2 shift until over 3k rpm's. Annoying to say the least. The prior tuner said it's nothing in the tune, and it must be an internal trans problem.
After the short drive home last night, the difference is night and day. The motor now has torque and idles beautifully, with just a hint of the cam loping. The transmission shifts beautifully, after some HP Tuners magic. So much for an internal transmission problem....
It was losing a bit of initial tke off due to me removing the front driveshaft chasing a vibration. The Rovers are permanent 4wd, and have a viscous coupling. The coupling was letting go at max torque in first gear. Driveshaft back on and cross member lowered, cant wait to drive it!
Going to wire the ECM fan controls to the Taurus fan, do a couple of other odds and ends, then go for an icy drive.
Oil pressure is excellent on the ATK motor, temp sits @180 when driving on the highway, and besides the cam lope, is smooth as silk.
Will report back on MPG figures if I remember, but it no doubt will be a lot better than the 12.5 I got during break in. It was running so rich it would make your eyes water immediately.
Martin
Glad to hear you keep making progress on her Martin! Curious to see what that fuel mileage ends up being, the extra power should help with MPG if you can keep your foot out of it lol
Time will tell, as I have to go back to work....Been at home since the day before Thanksgiving. Was gone for 3 1/2 months prior to that, but oh well.
Will see if the Missus drives it around or not.
Did a little running around while home, and it is now just over 2 seconds faster 0-60 than it was stock, and a second or so faster than a Callaway model... Result!
Still feels a little weak in the low and mid ranges, but maybe it will loosen up?
I ended up pulling the PRW water pump, after it started making rattling noises again. Refitted the old one and had to redo the top hose connection, again.
Sent PRW an email Saturday, yet to get a reply. Doubt I will really, as I have been far from impressed on the customer skills. Just under $300 wasted on a complete POS water pump. It now has movement on the main shaft, so I'd guess the bearing is shot. Thank God I kept the old parts store water pump, that was half the price of the PRW one.
Off to get a new exhaust today, poor thing has sat for so long that the OEM 1998 muffler is starting to rust.....
Plot thickens...again.
Puller the PRW pump as there was a rattling noise. Checked the pulled, movement in the shaft.
Put the old one back on, it was here and seemed fine.
Pulled the trailer yesterday and it went up to 220 empty. Put in neutral while rolling, down it went. I am running a 160 t/stat, and it was sitting @180 before the prw pump decided to play its games again.
Could this be a water pump issue? Old parts store pump is junk? Old being a relative term, it has @500 miles on it.
Noticed this morning the same rattling sound, best I can tell from the water pump area. Sounds like a small bolt hitting a pulley, hollow sounding.
Seems odd that when I put the old pump back on, it was running hot on a 70degree day on the highway. Ran it one time before that with the "old" pump on, @50 degrees out just went @10 miles away, sat @180 then.
Thoughts?
To kinda wrap this up....
Changed the water ump back to a PRW one.
Changed the crank sensor and custom reluctor wheel to a Adapt-Tach setup fed the LS ECM.
In turn this screwed the ac request and grant signal up for the HVAC seeing as the Rover engine ECM now has no clue if it's running or not.
Found the request and grant wires, soldered them together, and have fully functional HVAC again!
Installed a Volvo relay setup to control the fan speeds. Bargain at under $30, and beefy enough for the Taurus fan.
Still running kinda warm, sits at 180 at idle/low rpm's, then goes up to @210 when getting on it. Will keep my eye on it though.
Motor is STRONG on the low end, which is mainly where it sits (under 3k rpm's). Still getting a little vibration above @3k rpm's though. Maybe the poly bushed motor mounts, but it feels driveline to me. Something else to keep an eye on.
Sorry for delays in replying.....Life, new business venture, etc.
I'll try swapping the trans mount, or at least check what they are, old age....
Still running hot though With the AC on, it will keep going and going, upwards.
Spoke to Griffin, they seem to think it is the PRW water pump. Nothing but issues with that POS, so will be kinda happy to dump it.
I need the pulley to run the truck spacing drivebelt, but I cant use spacers and use a car pulley as my alternator etc is mounted to the pump.
Need a front outlet but truck pulley.....Thoughts?
Many guys have modified the truck pump by welding/ plugging that top outlet shut and installing the car style outlet on the front of the pump (same way the car pump is setup).
I really want an "off the shelf" pump, for future replacement if needed.
I have 5.5" from the mounting surface to the front of the belt, so will try to get some measurements from different pumps and go from there.
Here is what I am against. Is the steam line OK going into my little home made deal?
01-10-2016, 12:49 PM
