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'72 Cutlass LS2/6l80E swap

 
Old 05-18-2016, 10:48 AM
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No clearance issues, it is fairly close but having the Dirty Dingo adjustable mounts helped a ton! 1" setback plates weren't cutting it with the LS1 oilpan.
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Old 09-24-2017, 02:51 PM
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Damn I hate it when life gets in the way of a project lol
Anyway, my Holley turbo manis came in yesterday:


Need to reroute my fuel line since the manifold tucks right up to the block, right where I was running the line:

Also need to grind on my Dirty Dingo motor mount since the pass side mani hits it. Hopefully it wont be much, doesnt seem like it will be but you know how that goes sometimes:

Might do some grinding later today and install the crossover. Since the v-band for the turbo is under the heater lines there is no interference with accessories. Liking what I see so far.
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:14 PM
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Real cool build. I love to see the non chevelle Abodies stepping it up
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:50 PM
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Nice...where are you thinking the turbo will go?

Andrew
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Sebambam View Post
Real cool build. I love to see the non chevelle Abodies stepping it up
Thanks, it was almost a '69 and then a '70 Chevelle, sold them both before I picked up the Cutlass. I love me some Chevelles but the Cutlass is my baby
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO View Post
Nice...where are you thinking the turbo will go?

Andrew
Thinking about behind the pass headlights, seems like the best place for it.
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:43 PM
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Welp, did some hacking and slashing on my DD mount, think I'm good there. Ran into another spot that needs some work:

Could roll the dice and grind down the bump on the mani a bit, but I think I'll play it safe and massage the mount. To be continued....
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Chocolate Apocalypse View Post
Thinking about behind the pass headlights, seems like the best place for it.
Are you going to just hang it off a 3" tube from the Hooker manifold? I am day dreaming about something similar in my 70 GTO...I was thinking the closer to the block the better for support.

Also, which turbo are you considering?

Andrew
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:57 PM
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Nah, want to give the turbo more support than that. Will most likely use a flex coupler then hard mount the turbo to the frame. At least thats the route I'm thinking about going. Turbo choice is still about a year out but I've been eyeing the Comp oil-less CT43X 7075. Might go a bit smaller but somewhere around there.
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Chocolate Apocalypse View Post
Nah, want to give the turbo more support than that. Will most likely use a flex coupler then hard mount the turbo to the frame. At least thats the route I'm thinking about going. Turbo choice is still about a year out but I've been eyeing the Comp oil-less CT43X 7075. Might go a bit smaller but somewhere around there.
Cool...looking forward to progress!

Andrew
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO View Post
Cool...looking forward to progress!

Andrew
Same here! lol Thank you much
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Old 09-29-2017, 02:41 PM
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After a bit of hacking and slashing, the manifolds are in:
Still need to reroute the fuel line and probably the heater/ac lines when the time comes. The trans cooler lines are touching the flex coupler on the crossover so will need to address that too. Oy, its always something.
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Old 09-29-2017, 02:52 PM
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Looks like you're on your way to some fun times there.
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Old 09-29-2017, 04:51 PM
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Are you going to change the lower radiator hose where it goes into the engine?

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Old 09-30-2017, 09:04 AM
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I'm excited to see this build. With Holley's new turbo manifolds, I may go this route in the future for my L96 equipped 71 Cutlass. Subscribed.
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Old 09-30-2017, 09:41 AM
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Just so everyone following the OP's thread here is aware, the Hooker turbo manifolds will install in A-bodies with the Hooker A-body engine brackets with no cutting of the engine brackets required.
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Old 09-30-2017, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky View Post
Just so everyone following the OP's thread here is aware, the Hooker turbo manifolds will install in A-bodies with the Hooker A-body engine brackets with no cutting of the engine brackets required.
Yeah, figured they would drop in with the Holley mounts no problem. I may switch them out at some point but for now they do the trick.

The lower radiator hose needs to be replaced, its just a factory LS1 piece that once I got knew I'd change it out. The upper factory hose is fine so will keep using that. Hoping the factory LT1 rad and LS1 fans will be enough to keep her cool. Might be pushing it in the middle of summer with the ac blasting but we'll see.
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Old 09-30-2017, 11:25 AM
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Also, when I was mounting the engine/trans I was having clearance issues with the steering using the factory LS1 F-bod oilpan. The adjustable mounts let me push the motor back as far as I could and because of the extra thickness of the slider I had just enough clearance. Of course, Holley now has a high clearance pan which would most likely take care of those issues w/o needing that extra 1/4" or so of height. Time marches on.
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Old 09-30-2017, 11:47 AM
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You are correct on the Holley 302-2 and 302-3 oil pans eliminating the need to raise the engine to remedy the common clearance issue between the oil pan and the inner tie rod ends. They also allow you to avoid having to put the back of the passenger side cylinder head very close the firewall in order for the oil pan to clear the back of the engine crossmember.
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Chocolate Apocalypse View Post
Well, my body mounts finally came in today so I figured I would try to get the body back on this weekend. Patience is overrated though...

Attachment 677788
Attachment 677789
Attachment 677790
Attachment 677791
Attachment 677792

Its no fun when you only have a couple floor jacks, some jackstands and wheel dollies, just gotta get creative.
Great build, your build is why I started to attempt this myself. I'm just starting my build on a 71 Cutlass. I'm going back a forth with which trans to go with for my GEN IV, 4l80e or 6l80e. How much cutting did you have to do to get the 6l80e to fit?
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