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OK!!! Got the rear end installed! Still need to torque everything down but it's all fitting pretty good so far. The rear rotors were backorder, but should be here on Monday so I can put them on and see what needs to be done to fit the rear calipers.
Finally got some time to unpack the rotors for the rears...
They are impressive, no doubt. The Street Shop Inc. rear conversion really works...the E-brake shoes fit in the space exactly as intended.
The only hitch to this is the C6 brakes are made to be mounted to the rear of the knuckle, and the C7 brakes were made to mount in front.
So...I'll either need to swap them around, or get someone to remake the aluminum spacer for me configured how I need it.
I've already contacted Street Shop, Inc. and asked if they would redo it for me...sending them a rotor and caliper but they aren't interested. They said they were going in a "different direction" with the C7 brakes (whatever that means).
We've got rain in the forecast for the entire weekend...so I'll have some time to look at it more.
I may have struck a nerve with Street Shop after my response email to them...
I got another reply from them this morning asking questions...so maybe we are in for them to rework this system so it can do C7 brakes as well...
If not...I think I can mock up an adapter bracket to convert between the 2 and use that for someone to make me a pair on a CNC...we shall have to wait & see. If I swap the rears around...this is how close it is. If I rotate it down a few degrees...I can create something that will work. If Street Shop does it...they just need to make the mounting ears slightly longer (taller) and a little closer together.
However, IF they want to design it so the calipers mount to OEM locations in front of the knuckles, that will take some more work. Good news is they can do it and not interfere with the e-brake bracket.
They would (however) need to notch out the backside of the backing plate for the e-brake like they did in their original location so the caliper clears it.
As I told them, at this point it's MUCH easier to just swap the rear calipers around and then that leaves the path for the e-brake cable clear.
****...it's been a while since an update. Sorry guys!
So it's been a while and I've been busy but not a lot of actual on-car work has been done.
I found a guy to rework the rear caliper adapters...and it's taken us some time because he was in the middle of planning a wedding and getting married over the summer 2019.
Here are the CAD views:
We cut the prototype out in black ABS and did a test fitting. It was pretty close, but we needed to beef up the main web a bit and had the room so we did. Then he sent it out for bid...and one of their quick prototype shops in China came back with a price of <$400/ea for them using 7075 AL. They cut them and shipped...and they got stuck in customs in CHINA (still are...) and so they cut another set after nearly 2 weeks and this is what we have:
Unfortunately...my workshop space has been taken over for company use to build systems for the BMW stores and I had to move the car out into the main barn into a small(ish) corner so I can't actually put them on the car...but I DID mount up the right rear so I could take a few shots of the end result!
Also this week I got a delivery from Merle @ Exotic Muscle: The rear clip for the car in carbon fiber.
They don't have the ZR1 mold anymore...so they made it in 3 pieces for me. Both sides from the license plate hole out to the wheel wells and then a center strip. I'll have to bond it all together but did a test fit last night just to see...
Next week the carbon fiber hood should be here...another piece of the puzzle coming together...it should start looking like a car again.
I should have the shop back in a couple weeks...then I can assemble the rear brakes and knuckles and use the lift to get this thing back on the ground. Then it can go on the trailer and go to the cage builder for the next round.
Once I got the shop back...I went ahead and mounted up the rear brakes...
And so...I then wanted to see how tire fitment looked, and grabbed the race tires from the '19 Grand Sport to see...
The offset is wrong...and the inside was firm against the trailing links but it gives you a feel for the look...
Then I started on firewall cleanup...they really just put a bead of bonding agent in there and put the panels together. What oozed out was wiped flat and it really looked like crap. So I scraped, I sanded and eventually got the majority of the stuff off.
And while I was getting messy...the 30-year old goop bonding the windshield needed removal and painting of the windshield surround...
Now I'm waiting on a NICE day where it isn't blowing a gale, or raining...so I can roll it outside, blow it out and primer/paint the epoxy paint on it...I can tell you that crap is NASTY and DOES NOT want to let go...
I stripped back the dash to the firewall to see what was there...it was ugly. I just ripped out the harness wholesale...it was 30 years old, had been under water and just generally unreliable. It's going to be a RACE CAR...so "most" of that **** I won't need anyway. I'll buy a Painless harness to give me the required circuits and be confident I have good wiring, relays and fuse panels.
After seeing the condition back here...the doors and the vacuum actuators are all rusted up...I think it's all gonna go and I'll fab up something to move warm air over the windshield and side windows if I get caught in the rain. Either that or look for a donor car to pull parts from then sell off the rest to someone who parts them out.
I found a mouse/rats nest inside...no surprise since this thing sat outside on the ground for a couple years before I got it...
Now for the exciting stuff...I've been keeping my ear to the ground on motors for this thing...and this week got wind of one hell of a deal.
Feras is building a new motor for his Time-Attack C6 Z06 and posted he was selling his HPR468. It was a deal I could NOT pass up. Going to pick it up next week and drop it back @ HPR for them to refresh it before bringing it home.
I'll also get the tune flashed from his tuner when I have the computer...
I'm still on the fence as to who's dash I want to use...I want something that fits the space the stock cluster occupies, so that limits my choices dramatically. I'm leaning towards the AIM MXG or MXL2..
With the GM kits, they come complete: Computer, harness, throttle pedal & sensors. I've not (yet) seen anything like that on the Holley web site. They come close...but not quite there.
With the GM kits, they come complete: Computer, harness, throttle pedal & sensors. I've not (yet) seen anything like that on the Holley web site. They come close...but not quite there.
I would get the TerminatorX Max, which has DBW. The pedals are not hard. You can choose from the ctsv pedal, which is what comes with the GM harness kit, or use the Impala SS pedal, which is what I like to use. I've tuned numerous Terminator X systems, and they work awesome. You can also easily implement pwm fan control, which is not so easy with the OEM parts.
My weekend was a little busy...I got the firewall and windshield surround cleaned up and sprayed. Finally got decent weather where it wasn't blowing a gale and wasn't raining!
I would get the TerminatorX Max, which has DBW. The pedals are not hard. You can choose from the ctsv pedal, which is what comes with the GM harness kit, or use the Impala SS pedal, which is what I like to use. I've tuned numerous Terminator X systems, and they work awesome. You can also easily implement pwm fan control, which is not so easy with the OEM parts.
Andrew
I would agree with this, for a few reasons:
1) For the Holley system, it's likely complete for what you need, except for the DBW Pedal, and a connector to run your alternator. The holley plugs into all of OEM sensors. It also lets you run sensors like fuel pressure, and display and datalog them.
2) It is a mistake to think of the Holley system as a replacement for the factory ECU. It offers things you aren't going to get on the OEM stuff, which in a track car, you will want.
- Live Tuning (So you can be watching the tune run in real time on a laptop, and alter on the fly)
- Closed loop fueling, even at WOT.
- Datalogging with playback (watch the tune move cell to cell in sync with the datalog)
- Ability to have multiple tunes on the card and switch them without a laptop
- Much more intuitive tuning interface (personal preference)
I have run both factory ECUs with HP tuners and a wideband, and the Holley. Greatly prefer the Holley. In fact, I have a 2nd one coming tomorrow, for my 1992 C4 which is in process of receiving my 403" LS2. And I already have HP Tuners with credits, a professionally reworked LS2 harness, ECU, and wideband on the shelf. All of that is going for sale. In my case, the Holley is easier for me to run the Air Conditioning in the C4.
Cool build for sure. Looking forward to seeing it finished
1) For the Holley system, it's likely complete for what you need, except for the DBW Pedal, and a connector to run your alternator. The holley plugs into all of OEM sensors. It also lets you run sensors like fuel pressure, and display and datalog them.
2) It is a mistake to think of the Holley system as a replacement for the factory ECU. It offers things you aren't going to get on the OEM stuff, which in a track car, you will want.
- Live Tuning (So you can be watching the tune run in real time on a laptop, and alter on the fly)
- Closed loop fueling, even at WOT.
- Datalogging with playback (watch the tune move cell to cell in sync with the datalog)
- Ability to have multiple tunes on the card and switch them without a laptop
- Much more intuitive tuning interface (personal preference)
I have run both factory ECUs with HP tuners and a wideband, and the Holley. Greatly prefer the Holley. In fact, I have a 2nd one coming tomorrow, for my 1992 C4 which is in process of receiving my 403" LS2. And I already have HP Tuners with credits, a professionally reworked LS2 harness, ECU, and wideband on the shelf. All of that is going for sale. In my case, the Holley is easier for me to run the Air Conditioning in the C4.
Cool build for sure. Looking forward to seeing it finished
Can it import an HP Tune? This motor already has been dyno-tuned, and I'd hate to remake the wheel if I didn't have to. I'm not against aftermarket...if it has more choices than stock and don't need gyrations to do things then I don't mind.
Does the Holley system have an input for a pressure switch on the shifter to do an interrupt for something like a dog-ring or sequential T56?
And, finally, what motor mounts are you using on the '92? Being a ZR1, the LT5 had the mounts on the front corners of the engine over the diagonal brace from the cross-member to the frame...
09-06-2018, 04:43 PM
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