Project Blue Balls // Fairmont
09-23-2013, 01:03 PM
#82
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[QUOTE=superbean;17702480]I've driven the car a few times now...
Put a 2 speed Volvo fan on it, bled the cooling system (what a *****)
Next time you have the thermostat out just drill a 1/8" hole in the top part of it and it will bleed the air for you. I've fought with that before and after drilling the hole you just fill and go. It will burp out in the overflow tank as you drive. Did you get that starter problem figured out? I just recently ran into a similar problem and I fixed it by putting some more spacers (washers) between the torque converter and the flex plate because as I would crank down on the torque converter bolts it would ever so slightly bend the flex plate just enough that the starter gears didn't like it. Good luck with the project!
Put a 2 speed Volvo fan on it, bled the cooling system (what a *****)
Next time you have the thermostat out just drill a 1/8" hole in the top part of it and it will bleed the air for you. I've fought with that before and after drilling the hole you just fill and go. It will burp out in the overflow tank as you drive. Did you get that starter problem figured out? I just recently ran into a similar problem and I fixed it by putting some more spacers (washers) between the torque converter and the flex plate because as I would crank down on the torque converter bolts it would ever so slightly bend the flex plate just enough that the starter gears didn't like it. Good luck with the project!
09-23-2013, 01:59 PM
#83
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I'm not sure yet.. I may keep the 2.73s for a little while until I finish breaking all the other stuff. I used to have a ton of mustangs and have a few gear sets in my storage unit.. May be able to trade some of my 3.73s and 4.10s for someones stock 3.27 or 3.08 gears. Until then I'll enjoy made fuel economy lol
09-23-2013, 02:02 PM
#84
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[QUOTE=Slim80;17704579] Thanks for the heads up! Next time the thermostat is out i'll do that. It's a real pain in the butt
I may have to space the converter like you suggested. I was cranking it without the converter hooked up and didn't notice any hanging up issues and it only seem to happen when I bolted converter up.
I've driven the car a few times now...
Put a 2 speed Volvo fan on it, bled the cooling system (what a *****)
Next time you have the thermostat out just drill a 1/8" hole in the top part of it and it will bleed the air for you. I've fought with that before and after drilling the hole you just fill and go. It will burp out in the overflow tank as you drive. Did you get that starter problem figured out? I just recently ran into a similar problem and I fixed it by putting some more spacers (washers) between the torque converter and the flex plate because as I would crank down on the torque converter bolts it would ever so slightly bend the flex plate just enough that the starter gears didn't like it. Good luck with the project!
Put a 2 speed Volvo fan on it, bled the cooling system (what a *****)
Next time you have the thermostat out just drill a 1/8" hole in the top part of it and it will bleed the air for you. I've fought with that before and after drilling the hole you just fill and go. It will burp out in the overflow tank as you drive. Did you get that starter problem figured out? I just recently ran into a similar problem and I fixed it by putting some more spacers (washers) between the torque converter and the flex plate because as I would crank down on the torque converter bolts it would ever so slightly bend the flex plate just enough that the starter gears didn't like it. Good luck with the project!
I may have to space the converter like you suggested. I was cranking it without the converter hooked up and didn't notice any hanging up issues and it only seem to happen when I bolted converter up.
09-23-2013, 02:05 PM
#85
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Notice the return hose going into the filler neck lol. I'm going to pull the filler neck off and have a -6an bung welded in that way the fuel drains back through the filler neck instead of having to tap a hole in the top of the tank. (filer neck is removeable)
I also changed up the exhaust some. In these pictures it has straight 4in pipe coming off the turbo (loud). I pie cut 3inch pipe and made a 90 pointing it down so the fender will fit and it's about half as loud as it was.
I also changed up the exhaust some. In these pictures it has straight 4in pipe coming off the turbo (loud). I pie cut 3inch pipe and made a 90 pointing it down so the fender will fit and it's about half as loud as it was.
09-28-2013, 06:13 PM
#86
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I'm having a problem building boost.. I've bypassed bov.. didn't work, pulled wastegate line temporarily and that didn't work. Map is working since I did a boost leak test and saw 20Psi or so. Any ideas?
Cobbled this up for a temporary exhaust. Looks hideous but did quieten it down a lot
Cobbled this up for a temporary exhaust. Looks hideous but did quieten it down a lot
09-29-2013, 01:06 PM
#88
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What spring do you have in the wastegate right now? I would look at that area first and make sure nothing is leaking out past the wastegate because of a valve stuck open like what was mentioned. One thing I do is to put a piece of paper over the exhaust area of the wastegate to see if anything is coming out and forcing the paper away. Sometimes just putting your hand over it you cannot sense a slight leak at low idle.
09-29-2013, 04:11 PM
#89
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You get your starter issue fixed? Reason I ask I had the same issue on my fox problem was due to the ford starter noid that I was using.just a thought I figured id share. Good to see the car on the road.
09-30-2013, 10:31 AM
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What spring do you have in the wastegate right now? I would look at that area first and make sure nothing is leaking out past the wastegate because of a valve stuck open like what was mentioned. One thing I do is to put a piece of paper over the exhaust area of the wastegate to see if anything is coming out and forcing the paper away. Sometimes just putting your hand over it you cannot sense a slight leak at low idle.
I may cap off wastegate completely and drive it easy and see if it will build boost or not. That will rule it out.
I'm starting to think I may have an issue with the turbo
09-30-2013, 08:42 PM
#92
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10-06-2013, 12:05 AM
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I have been driving the car on 6-7 psi for a few days now doing some street tuning. WOT is about dialed in at a fat 10.8-11.0. Drive-ability is about 95% spot on and drive better than a factory pcm car.
6-7Psi
14deg timing
11.0 WOT AFR
Lots of burnt rubber
6-7Psi
14deg timing
11.0 WOT AFR
Lots of burnt rubber
10-06-2013, 11:32 AM
#95
whats the learning curve like on that MegaSquirt? ive been considering it for a future project but haven't really "tuned" before (just changed shift points, limiter and stupid stuff like that)
10-13-2013, 10:59 PM
#98
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I think it's pretty simple to use honestly.. depending on your setup, you can find a basemap that is 80% correct that already has all the req fuel specs setup and saves time.
If it's lean, add fuel, if it knocks, take timing out really that simple.
