54 Bel Air w/LS1 and 4L60e
06-04-2013, 08:56 AM
#42
Congrats on the project. Just a suggestion, get something similar to a medic alert deal you see on TV if you work alone a lot. Nothing like having someone find you after two days of being missing cause a car or part fell on you and you couldn't get to the phone to call 911..
I do 99% of my working on projects at my Mom's house and she is usually real close by when I am under a car. Granted, at 62 and arthritic, she isn't the Hulk and can toss a car off me, but she can call 911 and grab a jack and start trying to lift whatever has landed on me off to get me out from under it. And on the same token, I am more cautious about jack stands and safety now...
I do 99% of my working on projects at my Mom's house and she is usually real close by when I am under a car. Granted, at 62 and arthritic, she isn't the Hulk and can toss a car off me, but she can call 911 and grab a jack and start trying to lift whatever has landed on me off to get me out from under it. And on the same token, I am more cautious about jack stands and safety now...
06-05-2013, 05:43 AM
#44
Congrats on the project. Just a suggestion, get something similar to a medic alert deal you see on TV if you work alone a lot. Nothing like having someone find you after two days of being missing cause a car or part fell on you and you couldn't get to the phone to call 911..
I do 99% of my working on projects at my Mom's house and she is usually real close by when I am under a car. Granted, at 62 and arthritic, she isn't the Hulk and can toss a car off me, but she can call 911 and grab a jack and start trying to lift whatever has landed on me off to get me out from under it. And on the same token, I am more cautious about jack stands and safety now...
I do 99% of my working on projects at my Mom's house and she is usually real close by when I am under a car. Granted, at 62 and arthritic, she isn't the Hulk and can toss a car off me, but she can call 911 and grab a jack and start trying to lift whatever has landed on me off to get me out from under it. And on the same token, I am more cautious about jack stands and safety now...
07-09-2013, 12:00 PM
#47
Update. I've had plenty time to work on the car the last couple of weeks. I got what we call in Texas the ole' "chinga lay". Basically I got screwed out of a job because the client didn't like me and lied about some stuff to my boss. I was told I was to forward, I guess that means I don't kiss *** and I don't sugar coat the truth. Any way. I got the car running a few weeks ago, just haven't posted the boring stuff. I'll post the video later.
I built a VATs disable unit and got the engine running pretty easily, after a few tries. I had the ignition and ground just wrapped around the other just to get it running. First the ground came off and I fixed it then the ign fell off. I kept getting the ole' run for a few second syndrome. This is my first fuel injected car to work on, but I've read so much I figured that would be were to start my trouble shooting. After I connected them permanently the car fired right up.
I installed the fuse panel in the glove box by building a metal pan, but later removed it for a couple reasons. First the relays were crooked and secondly, I followed someone wiring diagram for the fans and it wasn't allowing the fans to come on; it would latch the relay on (or what sounding like on). I fixed it easily also. A lot of the wiring is just temporally installed at this point to see if the engine ran.
The radiator is installed.
I modified the existing shift leaver system to work with the new trans. Also in the pictures is the steering shafts. I got the column mounted too.
Another mount was modified for the shift selector on the trans.
Both the f-body accelerator pedal and a new cable were installed. The OBD II port is placed so I can use the port for the scanner until I get the gauges working.
I drilled and tapped the oil pressure what ever you call it above the filter to accept the factor gauge oil pressure tube, works great. No pictures.
I tried to extend the water temp sensor, but messed it up twice, I'll try one more time before I send the gauges in for a remodel. I've read if you freeze the bulb you can do the repair yourself. I guess I didn't freeze it enough. I also drilled and tapped the right cylinder head to accept the mechanical gauge bulb. Thanks to the site for the knowledge to do it. I used the grease and blow air through the pump method.
All of the above went easily, now the part that have given me the most trouble is the thunderbird rack. It will work with the LS1 power steering pump, but you must have the proper connectors. I though I would just buy the hoses for the rack, take them down to the parts store and have the old pressure hose and the new hose connected. Well I did and it didn't work. After a lot of cursing and research I found that the rack has metric fittings and the hoses are sae. How that works I don't know. All of the parts store web sites show the sae hoses and metric racks. So I cursed even more. I found the hoses and fitting from a source that I should have went to in the first place, but I like to do every thing twice.
I still need a few parts to have the car driving and stopping, but that's on hold until I can get a few pennies saved.
I built a VATs disable unit and got the engine running pretty easily, after a few tries. I had the ignition and ground just wrapped around the other just to get it running. First the ground came off and I fixed it then the ign fell off. I kept getting the ole' run for a few second syndrome. This is my first fuel injected car to work on, but I've read so much I figured that would be were to start my trouble shooting. After I connected them permanently the car fired right up.
I installed the fuse panel in the glove box by building a metal pan, but later removed it for a couple reasons. First the relays were crooked and secondly, I followed someone wiring diagram for the fans and it wasn't allowing the fans to come on; it would latch the relay on (or what sounding like on). I fixed it easily also. A lot of the wiring is just temporally installed at this point to see if the engine ran.
The radiator is installed.
I modified the existing shift leaver system to work with the new trans. Also in the pictures is the steering shafts. I got the column mounted too.
Another mount was modified for the shift selector on the trans.
Both the f-body accelerator pedal and a new cable were installed. The OBD II port is placed so I can use the port for the scanner until I get the gauges working.
I drilled and tapped the oil pressure what ever you call it above the filter to accept the factor gauge oil pressure tube, works great. No pictures.
I tried to extend the water temp sensor, but messed it up twice, I'll try one more time before I send the gauges in for a remodel. I've read if you freeze the bulb you can do the repair yourself. I guess I didn't freeze it enough. I also drilled and tapped the right cylinder head to accept the mechanical gauge bulb. Thanks to the site for the knowledge to do it. I used the grease and blow air through the pump method.
All of the above went easily, now the part that have given me the most trouble is the thunderbird rack. It will work with the LS1 power steering pump, but you must have the proper connectors. I though I would just buy the hoses for the rack, take them down to the parts store and have the old pressure hose and the new hose connected. Well I did and it didn't work. After a lot of cursing and research I found that the rack has metric fittings and the hoses are sae. How that works I don't know. All of the parts store web sites show the sae hoses and metric racks. So I cursed even more. I found the hoses and fitting from a source that I should have went to in the first place, but I like to do every thing twice.
I still need a few parts to have the car driving and stopping, but that's on hold until I can get a few pennies saved.
Last edited by DEEDDUDE; 07-09-2013 at 12:14 PM. Reason: posted video
07-09-2013, 02:51 PM
#48
I had custom hoses made for mine locally. I took the guy the hoses from the rack and the ends I needed, he knew exactly what he was looking at and told me it would take a day. The next day and $25 later I picked them up and have been drama free ever since.
One thing to note, you might want to step the pressure down a little. Ford racks work in the 900PSI range while the GM stuff is around 1200+ if my memory is correct. You can use something like Borgeson's pressure reducing kit to modify your pump's output. This will make things much less twitchy on the expressway.
One thing to note, you might want to step the pressure down a little. Ford racks work in the 900PSI range while the GM stuff is around 1200+ if my memory is correct. You can use something like Borgeson's pressure reducing kit to modify your pump's output. This will make things much less twitchy on the expressway.
07-09-2013, 03:56 PM
#50
I had custom hoses made for mine locally. I took the guy the hoses from the rack and the ends I needed, he knew exactly what he was looking at and told me it would take a day. The next day and $25 later I picked them up and have been drama free ever since.
One thing to note, you might want to step the pressure down a little. Ford racks work in the 900PSI range while the GM stuff is around 1200+ if my memory is correct. You can use something like Borgeson's pressure reducing kit to modify your pump's output. This will make things much less twitchy on the expressway.
One thing to note, you might want to step the pressure down a little. Ford racks work in the 900PSI range while the GM stuff is around 1200+ if my memory is correct. You can use something like Borgeson's pressure reducing kit to modify your pump's output. This will make things much less twitchy on the expressway.
07-09-2013, 03:59 PM
#51
Thanks 2good. I'll have to fix the rear quarters to get the rear tubs to seal. I like the patina also, I found some paint that will "re-create" the patina look, but I'm no painter.
10-07-2013, 09:00 PM
#53
10-14-2013, 11:06 PM
#54
What car are those headers from? My truck headers don't fit and I'm trying to figure out what will fit. Don't want to spend $300 on headers if I can use some stockers... (BTW - I have a 52 Chevy Coupe that I'm stuffing a 5.3 into)
10-15-2013, 04:13 AM
#55
10-15-2013, 10:19 PM
#57
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Did you have to trim any of the lower firewall to clear the exhaust? During my test fit of the motor and trans tonight it looks like I'll need to cut the inner firewall area that mounts on the inner part of the frame.
10-20-2013, 12:39 PM
#58
I dont have any pictures of what I cut, sorry.
10-20-2013, 12:58 PM
#59
Small update. I've been slowly making progress. I didn't like the radiator top mount so I removed it, still trying to deside how I want to do it. I made these front wheelwells yesterday. As you can see I cleaned up the wiring. I left the power and ground hooked up just to start the engine from time to time.
I used the existing wheel well and cut them to use the trailer fenders, I'll come back later and close them off leaving clearance for the upper a-arms.
I don't like the air filter placement so I'll buy another 90 elbow and move it closer to the inner fender wells.
I mocked up the exhaust. F-body manifolds to an off road pipe set-up from dyno max, I believe, to a 3-1/2" dyno max bullet. It's not welded in yet, I have to geta driveshaft and make sure I have plent clearance. It doesn't sound bad, but when I get a few pennys saved up I'll do a cam swap.
I used the existing wheel well and cut them to use the trailer fenders, I'll come back later and close them off leaving clearance for the upper a-arms.
I don't like the air filter placement so I'll buy another 90 elbow and move it closer to the inner fender wells.
I mocked up the exhaust. F-body manifolds to an off road pipe set-up from dyno max, I believe, to a 3-1/2" dyno max bullet. It's not welded in yet, I have to geta driveshaft and make sure I have plent clearance. It doesn't sound bad, but when I get a few pennys saved up I'll do a cam swap.
