Do Work 93YJ

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I think we're talking about cutting the same thing on the firewall. Like the idea of the trailer fenders to give you a starting point for a wheel well. Nice work man.

Leadfoot85

iTrader: (3)

Looks like your making steady progress! I'm getting ready to start wiring mine soon...

DEEDDUDE

Thanks 93.


Slowly, but steady. I love wiring, I may rewire mine again. I mainly just got mine wired just neat enough to not be a mess; but I'd like it to look more professional. I've been eyeing that F5 loom.

Good Luck with your projects. Keep us updated and inspired, sometimes I need a little motivation to get rolling on mine.

Leadfoot85

iTrader: (3)

I thought about modifying the truck harness that came with my motor, but decided to go with a swap harness from PSI. It will install cleaner than anything I could do myself and it will work the first time (hopefully...lol).

When I get some more pictures I'll start a build thread over here.

31-5window

Ok I would like to use your front end idea if that's cool. could you explain how you determined where the upper arm should sit? I see that you have spacers between are and bracket are these just for setup and will get shims when alignment gets done? I have a chassis engineering front end but I am gonna have bags so I am thinking about getting rid of hats and use ur idea because my A/C compressor hits the hat.

DEEDDUDE

Use any and all of my ideas you want or need for your build. I use these forums for ideas and I know others do too. I believe that's what makes the guys like us better builders whether we're doing this for a living or for fun. The inner fender idea I got from somewhere a while back and I knew I could use it on a build at sometime. If I had the tools and/or knowledge to have built them from scratch I would have, but as they are; they are a time saver.

As far as the upper a-arms, I found the knowledge on a site that I think I know your user name from. The one that doesn’t like the mention of LS motors, yeah…. that one. One of the builders had a thread on how to build a MII front and I modified his plans. I did however use some software I have to check the roll center and migration. I tweaked it very little. I believe I have them pretty close as to not need a ton of shims to adjust the caster. The upper mount is welded to the frame at the outer most point of these narrow frames and the spacers move the a-arm where it needs to be for the roll center and the static camber to be correct. IIRC the measurement between the arms is about 28” and you can use shims/spacers to get the pivot where you need it. As far as the height, again from memory, I think the measurement is 9-1/4” from the bottom a-arm pivot up. This depends on the spindle and upper and lower ball joint heights. You could use the measurements from your kit and transfer them to the set-up I’m using.

Good Luck with the build. If you need any other help let me know, I’ll be glad to help. I’ll look tonight, if I remember to, for the measurements I used.

00Wildcat

You mean the stupid, narrow minded, who gives a **** if it makes power, drives, stats together, is all new Chinese parts, $25,000 H&H flathead as long as it looks like what they think is a 50's hot rod message board?

3/4 race cams rule!

00Wildcat

P.S. the 54 is AWESOME!

31-5window

Oh yes that site, thanks for the info man I appreciate it.

wolfy

iTrader: (1)

Nice work on the 54. Subscribing.

If you wouldn't mind, could you PM me the link you're taliking about with the plans for the MII suspension? I'm helping my dad with a 46 Chevy pickup, and we've been talking about a weld-in kit, but I may be interested in fabbing it instead. Also, what software did you use, and how user friendly is it?

Thanks in advance, Cameron

Leadfoot85

iTrader: (3)

Do you have any pictures of your radiator hoses? I just mocked up my radiator and it seems like they are going to have to bend pretty tight. I'm using a 3-row aluminum radiator in the "stock" location, but might have to move it forward a little to make it work.

31-5window

Wolfy, you might want to check out the welder series I believe they have a kit if not they do have a to of misc parts that may be helpful.

DEEDDUDE

Leadfoot, These are the only ones I have of the radiator hoses. I'm using a f-body radiator and cooling fans. The next one will have the custom radiator. This had been a major hold up in progress fabing fender and radiator supports. Hope these help.

31-5window

lookin good, what year f-body? is the fan setup from the same car? how are you gonna run fans? do you have one or two fan outputs from pcm? did you do an oil cooler delete? I have a truck motor so my exhuast manifolds will not work what are your manifolds from?

DEEDDUDE

31,
All the parts are from a 2001 firebird; engine, trans, radiator, fans and exhaust. I'm running both outputs from the pcm using 3 relays. I set it up pretty much like the factory ran it, it gets hot here in Texas so I wanted the fans to come on if I ever installed an A/C. I didn't have to do an oil cooler delete.

The upper hose is from the same year f-body. The bottom is one of those universal hoses.

Leadfoot85

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the pics. My top radiator outlet is dead center, so im going to have to snake it around the intake tube as well as bend it back and forth to get to the water pump. im going to bend up some coat hangers and hit up a few parts stores to see if i can find something that will work. that universal style hose doesn't look too bad, might look into that option as well.

DEEDDUDE

Small update. I've been working out of town so the updates may not come as quickly as they have. Finally got the brakes finished and bleed. I first painted everything and while that was drying I started on the pedal assembly. I used the f-body brake and bracket. I lengthened the pedal thinking the little 8" booster wouldn't work very well, well I was wrong. After reinstalling everything and bleeding and bleeding the brakes I had no pedal. I spent the better part of a day a couple weeks ago messing with this thing. Got brake fluid everywhere messing up my freshly painted parts. After some research I not only lengthened the pedal again, but also so the pivot to the rod. I now have a 4:1 ratio and it seem to be ok. I need to bleed the brakes again once I get some help.





Instead of spending $300+ for a driveshaft I found an aluminum one on e-bay from a crown vic. I was thinking it was too short so I installed a long yoke, well again I was wrong; reinstalled the short yoke and bolted her up. I used a conversion joint on the front so I could use the GM slip yoke to the transmission.



The weather here is crappy and I wanted to do a test drive, but instead I tested the brakes and the Ford true track, or what ever Ford calls it; I've forgotten the name. Here's some proof that it works. The LS-1 lit the tires up so easily I had to open the shop up to air out.



The picture doesn't reflect the amount of smoke those little tires produced. Can't wait for a test drive.

Do Work 93YJ

iTrader: (1)

Awesome man. I can't wait to fire mine up. What booster/master cylinder are you running?

Leadfoot85

iTrader: (3)

awesome update! I think I read earlier you're in Baytown? If so it is supposed to clear up on Wednesday... (BTW, I live north of Beaumont and we should get together once we both have road worthy cars!)

Keep up the good work, its keeping me motivated to get mine running!

DEEDDUDE

I don't have the part numbers with me; I found everything on the bay. The booster is an 8" dual diaphragm, not sure who the seller was and the master is from pirate jack. It’s the power disc/disc with a 1-1/8” bore. I would probably go with the 1” if I had to do it again. The pedal is soft, but it does lock them up easily. Once I get it on the road I’ll know for sure if this is the master cylinder to keep.