ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

What did you guys choose for your swaps and why? I am leaning towards the nylon for cost and ease of use. I was going to buy the Dorman lines, fittings and the repair tool to insert the lines properly. It would cost around 120 bucks for all the stuff with Nylon and will be over 200 for braided stainless, and about the same for stainless hard lines.

I am running the Vetteworks Adapter for my LS1 on my 76 Trans Am swap and I will have the stock fbody LS1 fuel pump assembly, so I would have the quick connect lines coming off the pump anyway.

Thanks,
Ryan

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Ryan
For any mild swap, you shouldn't have any problem with the Dorman kits and Nylor lines. You should be able to find some Junk yard parts, like the QD and reuse them. Many have been able to pull the complete lines out of other cars and used them in the swap.

Many time you get what you pay for. Going the Cheap route is not aways Cheap. But in this case, it is a cost effective step to take. Just remember, there are always limitation and the size of the lines is one depending on what you are expecting to make in HP/TQ.

IMO, I like to run as much Hard Line as possible. But that is just me, old school...LOL

Good Luck and post some picture of you install.

BC

BobKovacs

I went with braided PTFE. Standard braided rubber doesn't hold up to all the crap they put in fuel these days and will break down over time. It also allows enough fuel seepage through the rubber that you'll end up with a smell in the garage. For 20' of PTFE line and all the fittings for the tank, regulator, and fuel rail, I was at about $190 from Summit.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I'm still kicking myself fof going hardline with S/S braided on the ends. I could have done both my swaps with 1 kit. Go with the nylon.

ijimmy

I went with braided stainless an , next time I will run 3/8 steel hardline most of the way and braided an up from the frame , should be cheaper and just as good

bczee

iTrader: (12)

On my Chevelle, I used SS 3/8" hard line Front to Back, Compression fitting to AN and Braided as needed. Russell QD where needed. On the Fuel Rail I brazed an AN Bung to do away with the QD.

On my Nova, I am using SS 3/8" Hard line front to back. Brazed AN Bungs on each end of the line and on the Fuel rail. Used the newer Russell QD as needed for the Vette FPR, AN fitting on the TanksINC drop in Fuel unit. Black Russel Braided hose as needed.

As you will see.. people will use many different combinations.. no one way is better or the wrong way. What every works to your budget and application is what is right for you.

BC

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I ended up using 3/8" Stainless hard line along the frame. Fragola PTFE hose from the tank to the hard line and from the hardline to the fuel rail.

I used SS steel because; It was cheaper than going all PTFE Hose, it will last the longest; more resistent to road debri and rocks; tucks and overall looks better.

I considered Nylon, but the cost of the kit to install fitting was too expensive for a one time use. Not to mention you will need to figure out a way to protect it from road debri. Also it doesnt like to bend, so sharp corners is out.

Going all braided is easy, but is alot more money than the other options. You will eventually be swapping it out when the fuel eats through the lines unless yuoi go PTFE. But PTFE is much more expensive and also doesnt like sharp bends. I also feel is looks bad and appears cheap.


It's easy mimic how your OEM lines are routed with steel line.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Here is a tip.. if you buy the 3/8" SS tube from any automotive store or some Hyd/tubing shop.. it is going to cost you a lot per foot.

I found a wholesale pumping store/outlet.. they had some 3/8" SS seamless tube that I was able to buy a 20 foot stick for like $40, it was made in Canada.. May not have been the highest grade stuff.. but for what I was using it for... it was very budget minded. And it can be polished up pretty good.

I was able to bend it up for the Nova from front to back without and breaks. (hint, get a good strong tubing bender, I broke one of them cheaper Snap on ones..LOL).

BC

krzy_z

iTrader: (1)

I ended up grabbing fuel line off a few newer style chevy trucks for my swap they got the QD up frt and just need to bend the lines to where u wanna go. only area I need aftermarket lines will be from the sending unit to the vette filter

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

INLINE TUBE is the source for quality tubing. You can get 3/8" tubing in stainless for $17 for 6 feet (Straight), or you can get OEM steel for $7.50.

On my car, all I needed was about 9-10 feet.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I used 3/8 inch copper nickel tubing for my fuel lines. The stuff is as easy as a cheap hooker to work with. And unlike the hooker it never gets nasty or corrodes.

Stainless can be an absolute bitch to work with. I know quite a few people who started out with stainless and ending up throwing it away. If you do flair stainless then make sure you cut it with a hack saw and not a tubing cutter. tubing cutters work harden the stainless making it harder to flair.

If I had to do it again I would look really hard at the nylon. I would be willing to bet you could buy that Dorman kit, use what you need, then sell what is left for 3/4th of what you paid for it. Road debris can't be an issue. If it was every car I now own would be a death trap cause all the OEM's run that stuff with no shielding. The only draw backs to the nylon are like said above bending it and depending on your HP goals doesn't come larger than 3/8 inch.

74modified

I know POP will be surprised, but I agree with him - above.
The copper-nickle is good stuff. I used factory nylon for the flex on both ends, with hard line in the center. The easiest/cheapest would be salvaged factory nylon connectors and lines. Then use the dorman metal to nylon fittings with a hard line center section. You might even be able to use the existing feed line. I used a stock late model Buick supply and return line and just shortened the metal center section. With an in-tank pump, I even used the factory filter connections. Bending the nylon is not too bad. Just use boiling water to heat the line, a heat gun or other source can overheat the nylon.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

My swap car was fuel injected, so I used my stock lines. If they ever fail, nylon or the copper-nickel stuff will go in. I use both frequently at work. Great products.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

I am actually using aluminum 5/8" hard line front to back with some braided nylon pushlock line to adapt at the ends. I decided on the aluminum to help dissipate heat from the large fuel pump I will be using to push massive amounts of E85 through those lines while at WOT. The bad part is this massive pump also heats the fuel a bunch the rest of the time. I am going to eventually get a pump controller, but for now it will be on 100% all the time at first til I get a spare $350 for a controller.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

First I have to say Wow! Pop N Wood and 74modified modified agree on something! Let this day be marked! Carry on.

I've done most of the above methods and so far my favorite from a cost and ease perspective is the nylon line.

I purchased a roll of Dorman (800-072) 3/8 line from Summit or Jegs and used it on a car a friend and I just finished. You can use connectors Dorman 800-082.5 (qty5) or the metal ones (what I used because I had them from prior JYD trips) and everything seals great, just like OEM. I made a tool to press the connectors on the line for less than $25 with all new parts and he has been driving the holy crap out of it (it's his daily) for the past week or so without a single leak. The 25 foot roll was around a $1 a foot and as long as it's tucked up high and away from heat it's happy, but you should do that with any fuel line. The only complaint I have is Nylon doesn't like tight radius bends, but I knew that before I started.

Total cost estimate:

Return side (regulator on the rail)
Factory steel fuel line for return: free
E85 safe Fuel injection rubber line: $3 / foot (3 feet)
5/16 quick release connector from salvage yard because they were too lazy to use QR tool: free
Fuel injection hose clamps: $9 (assorted sizes)

Pressure side
Dorman 800-025.5: $15
Dorman 800-072: $25

Tool: $25

Total: $83

I did not add in clamps for the fuel line or a filter because you need them in any build and those vary due to preference for look, fit and cost.
In the end I still have enough line and almost enough fittings to do another car and a new tool.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

I'm also using the Russell braided nylon. Super easy to work with and very lightweight. If you've got other hoses that are rubber like a PCV it doesn't make it stick out as much as it would with a stainless line

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

You know, I have so many arguments with so many people I can't remember exactly what happened.

Hopefully I stayed respectful though.

donnie_19

I am using the dorman nylon on my Swap. I bought the repair kit from Amazon and got enough fittings to do a couple of cars.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for all the replies. I am still not sure what I want to do... I think that I am going to rule out the Braided lines due to the potential for replacement in the short term. I called a local speed shop, and they quoted me $53 for 3/8 stainless, plus I would need all the fittings to connect them to the fuel rail and tank. I think that I am leaning more towards the nylon lines due to cost/longevity.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I went with a standard hardline kit, pre-bent for late 2nd gen Firebird, and ptfe hoses at the ends. I could have just as easily bent my own. The lines have been on for 7 years and look the same as when I put them on. Two things for you to consider:

1. If you get anything pre-bent, make sure the vendor is absolutely clear on whether your car is a factory pontiac engine (301,265,400) or chevy engine (305). The fuel lines run along the passenger side for one, driver side for the other. I found this out the hard way, but got a free set of lines for my trouble.

2. If you plan to race at all, check the rules for whatever santioning body governs the competition you'll be going into (NHRA, SCCA, NASA etc). They may have rules about the type of fuel line you can run.