I have a thread on the Chevelle board but thought there might be some interest over here since they make similar gauges for a lot of cars and these are one of the best ways to get gauges in a ls swap car. Better pictures will be posted shortly, these are cell shots.
The pod with the voltage gauge would not fit on the carrier. They properly cut the face plate, but the pod box that sandwiches to it to hold the gauge was 1/8" too large. Luckily I had a small bench grinder and was able to grind away the plastic enough to get the headlight switch hole and the screw holes to line up.
Red is check engine light
INSTALLING INTO LS ENGINE CHEVELLE
It comes with a temp sending unit adapter that will work in the ls1 head including instructions for removing the plug in the passenger side head.
The oil pressure might be able to be adapted to the stock ls1 sending unit location behind the intake using included brass fittings, but I had previously drilled and tapped the block off plate above the oil filter for my stock dummy light, so it just went right in place there.
The tach wire can be ran from the pcm directly to the brain for the gauges. My pcm was tuned to run the stock tach which requires putting the signal in 4 cyl mode but I think I read in the Dakota Digital manual that you can alter it in the gauge itself with the setup menu to get the same effect from an untuned PCM.
The speedo signal comes from the pcm. DO NOT TAP THE WIRES FOR THE SENSOR
You want the Red C2 connector and it will either be pin 50 or 55 (green wire/white stripe) depending on year. This wire is the VSS out signal (I believe it is meant to send speed signal to ABS). The gauge calibrates based on a marked mile run or you can manually set it by looking at a GPS.
Voltage gauge is determined by one of the normal wire connections for the brain so nothing has to be wired special there.
My car uses stock fuel sending unit. The instructions say to run wires to the sender and to a ground on the tank...I tapped the stock fuel gauge wire at the factory cluster plug and it works fine.
I soldered ACC power for the unit into the stock cluster harness (cut off so the bare terminals on the plug couldn't short against anything). I piggy backed the headlight switch wire to activate "Night dim mode" (instructions say all functions are low amp draw and piggybacking is fine). Ran a 10amp fused 12v wire to an empty plug on my stock Chevelle fuse block. Ran new grounds to a hole I drilled in the metal under the windshield.
There are momentary push buttons used to alternate the digital window screens and for various programming functions. I mounted mine to the right of the HVAC controls so they are easily accessible. They could easily be mounted on bottom of the dash but they would be harder to reach while driving.
The instructions are pretty clear on everything. It's a good idea to have on hand these things not included in the kit:
a color wire diagram from Classic Car Wiring
this wire diagram showing the cluster plug pin locations (year may be different): http://www.firstgenmc.com/photopost/...&ppuser=8&sl=a
package of 3-4 different colors of 18 gauge wire
1 generic fuse holder for your 12v feed (unless you intend to tap an already fused circuit)
a pack of ring terminals for ground wires
self tapping screws for grounds
heat shrink or high quality electrical tape
a good pair of quick strips and dykes
a fast heating soldering iron
Teflon tape for water and oil sending units
some Velcro (if you wish to mount the brain like I did so it's easy to remove but won't fall out on it's own)
Out of all the options for LS swapped cars, I definitely think these are the best if you want to use a factory SS dash. All the other options I've found require cutting up the dash to install bezels that don't even fit right, combo gauges that leave 3 blank holes in the dash, using a external drive motor for the speedo/ trying to adapt old style sending units and finding units with correct ohm/voltages and calibrating stock gauges using resistors to get "accurate" readings.
If anyone has any other questions feel free to ask. I'm going to try to snap some high quality pictures soon. I was trying to wait until I repaint my horn button so it doesn't look so tacky, get a new headlight switch, and paint the silver trim around the cluster area.