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I like the build alot. I'm guessing it is similar to what my end goal is but I suspect you pan to track it more than you plan to drive it on the street?
How do you like your SPEC stage 2 with aluminum pressure plate and ACT flywheel combo? I was actually thinking of running the exact same combo in my non drag car fox Mustang, but most people on ls1tech seem to hate the SPEC clutches. I ran a lightweight stage 3 on a Ford engine long ago and was happy with it so I don't know if guys on this site are following the crowd or if the LS clutches actually have some problem.
Do you get any brake knock back in the Wilwood calipers? I was thinking of doing brackets to mount the Superlites or Dynalites on my spindles but there are several people running AI and AIX who say they get knockback with the Wilwoods in thier application. I'm just curious if you ever experienced it.
I like the build alot. I'm guessing it is similar to what my end goal is but I suspect you pan to track it more than you plan to drive it on the street?
How do you like your SPEC stage 2 with aluminum pressure plate and ACT flywheel combo? I was actually thinking of running the exact same combo in my non drag car fox Mustang, but most people on ls1tech seem to hate the SPEC clutches. I ran a lightweight stage 3 on a Ford engine long ago and was happy with it so I don't know if guys on this site are following the crowd or if the LS clutches actually have some problem.
Do you get any brake knock back in the Wilwood calipers? I was thinking of doing brackets to mount the Superlites or Dynalites on my spindles but there are several people running AI and AIX who say they get knockback with the Wilwoods in thier application. I'm just curious if you ever experienced it.
The spec clutch has been absolutely stellar for me, and I will happily get another one when the time comes for replacement.
I had zero knockback on my front brakes and would still have the dynalites on the car if it wasn't for the need to stand up to heavy road course use. I cooked my original 4-piston calipers due to insufficient heat shedding. The 6-piston calipers with titanium heat are much better, but the 9 pounds of rotor mass isn't quite enough to handle the heat. Compared to stock, however, a dynalite kit will greatly improve braking (thanks to the calipers) and handling (thanks to lower unsprung weight) on your front end. They are awesome street and drag brakes.
When I upgraded, I went from one set of Wilwood 6-P calipers to a larger set of Wilwood 6-P calipers. The only knockback I got was in the rear, and that was due to the c-clip axles moving slightly in and out in cornering. I fixed that with the Ford-style bolt-in axles.
Those 6P radial mount calipers you have are real nice, but I think my budget is going more for the $160 4P lug mount Superlites, like p/n 120-11132. I believe they would work with my master cylinder options and wheels but I need to get rotors and wheels on and take some measurements based on the tech data off Wilwoods site. Also, these are the basic model which the AI/AIX guys seemed to be running, so why re-invent the wheel.
Those 6P radial mount calipers you have are real nice, but I think my budget is going more for the $160 4P lug mount Superlites, like p/n 120-11132. I believe they would work with my master cylinder options and wheels but I need to get rotors and wheels on and take some measurements based on the tech data off Wilwoods site. Also, these are the basic model which the AI/AIX guys seemed to be running, so why re-invent the wheel.
I'm running 1.25" rotors now.
I still have my old brake setup, if you're interested, but it uses .81" wide rotors. I have a posting in the classifieds for it.
Very cool project. I have a soft spot for late second gens since I drove one in high school. I would love to see some of our suspension under that car helping you get that thing through the corners. Give us a call if you need anything else suspension related, we have a good product line for early f-bodies as well as the later models.
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Very cool project. I have a soft spot for late second gens since I drove one in high school. I would love to see some of our suspension under that car helping you get that thing through the corners. Give us a call if you need anything else suspension related, we have a good product line for early f-bodies as well as the later models.
Thanks. Right now, the only items I'm contemplating are hollow/revised geometry anti-sway bars like what Hotchkis offers, and some sort of rear axle locating system (Watts link or panhard rod). What are your options there?
change of plans, after scoring a low mileage LS2 shortblock from a 2006 GTO. Engine's in and running with the older MSD 6010 Controller, instead of the 6012 you would normally use on an LS2. Good thing to know: GTO LS2s have the older 24 tooth crank reluctor, instead of the 58 tooth reluctor I expected. Doh!
The goal is to do better than this last showing for the old engine. An extra 100 horses should do the trick.
Aw Right. Welcome to the LS2 club. A very versatile set-up.
To match my FSL 6pots, I went with sliding calipers - even though I went with BBF ends as well. The MW 3.42 12 bolt has been in the car for 6 weeks or so.
I used the "Jegster" bracket so I can lower the axle side PHB mount location.
Aw Right. Welcome to the LS2 club. A very versatile set-up.
To match my FSL 6pots, I went with sliding calipers - even though I went with BBF ends as well. The MW 3.42 12 bolt has been in the car for 6 weeks or so.
I used the "Jegster" bracket so I can lower the axle side PHB mount location.
Very nice. If the 10-bolt ever goes, I'm definitely going that route. Are you using any enhanced rear suspension items (panhard, etc)? The bugs with the LS2 are mostly ironed out with the exception of the balancer pulley. For some reason, it's not seating as deep as it did in the LS1, like about 3/16 to far out. What happens then is the belt bumps inward (toward the engine) one rib and rides up on the back of the balancer pulley. Irritating as hell, bu I'll get it ironed out in next couple of weeks. If I had the time and dough, I'd go to Road Atlanta for the open track later this month, but oh well.
Yes, the Jegster allows the PHB axle side to be lowered - lowers rear roll center. I have weight jacks, adj a-arms, and drop spindles up front (raises RC up front while lowering CG), and coil-overs out back, Del-Sphere joints on the axle side and poly on the chassis side. Of course, LCARB too.
I'm looking into adding extended mounts at the lower shock mount for the coil-overs. I'm loosing too much shock travel while lowered. I'm runnning #850 front and #200 rear springs.
Wow. Definitely food for thought there. My rear suspension is essentially stock, besides the composite leafs and del-alum bushings at the back end. Been thinking about putting in a panhard like yours. I think my springs are like 450 front 225 back.
I'm debating color (gold or silver) and style (77/78 or 81) for the hood bird. Votes, anyone? First two are 81 style, last is 78. The car is Brewster Green
I vote the 81 style as you already have an 81.
Personally i find mix matching model year specific stuff tends to irritate me for some reason even though it looks great on cars. I guess im messed up in that sense.
I would also vote for silver bird. JMHO.
07-29-2014, 09:29 AM
