Brunton M-Spec 1,600 pounds and LS POWER!!
07-29-2014, 12:24 AM
#66
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I've been a bit neglectful of my build thread. Sadly, I am not yet racing the car, but I have made some progress of late.
One day, for inspiration I slapped on the hood and some of my magnetic racing numbers (that will be of no use to me on the fiberglass and aluminum skin).
The bad news is the classic hood, does not clear the pushrod suspension...
A racer friend of mine came up from Chicago to align the car with me. So down from the tables!
This one is fuzzy, because I took it quickly with my cell phone. He was more than a little nervous about me stepping back for a photo op at this point!
Down safe and sound, time for a fun (giant wheel-stand) photo!
Got it aligned, but... I chose the middle height points for the control arms. With the oil pan being the low point... I could not run over a 2x4 laid flat with my 23" race tires... Doh, one step forward, two steps back seems my pace...
So, I had to take the whole suspension off and go to the highest (lowest pick up points - still not very high) settings. Now I need another alignment....
I was inspired by having my number on the car, so I had the side panels vinyl wrapped and added the 228 placards and "AR" for my class (A-Race).
Then I installed the side pipes and see they are a little close for comfort to the vinyl. I bent out the passenger side as it had even less clearance. Time will tell. I'll keep a fire extinguisher handy when I start her up! May need some heat wrap. Open for suggestion here.
As you can see, we also started the wiring. Since I decided to keep the air intake on the shelf, my battery placement was compromised. I wanted it under hood to avoid extra safety equipment. The solve was to recess it into the shelf, and actually bolt it to the passenger side of the trans tunnel. I used an Odyssey battery and their aluminum box. I suggest you go direct with them, they were a pleasure to deal with and give a great direct price!
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/main...ccessories.htm
I'll get a pic of that up when I finish up the wiring.
I went with Speedhut's new CAN-bus style controls that pick up signal from the ECU, eliminating the need for extra sending units. I also ponied up for the GPS speedo. It has all kinds of cool toys like 1/4 mile times, 0-60, etc and will not be effected by differing street and track tire sizes. I chose to have the fuel gauge in the speedo. This should be cool watching one go rapidly down, while the other climbs! You can fully customize your set up. I went yellow. Hey, they look good on a Ferrari, and more importantly should be easy to see.
The blue tape was to protect the dash panel, but may have to stay. I dig the contrast!
Another friend of mine, who happens to be both a car nut and engineer has been invaluable with the electrical. Starting from scratch with just a painless T-bucket kit was a bit overwhelming.
So, as per past practice, another issue bit me. We added the radiator and struggled a lot to build hoses to fit the tight chassis. After paying for a bunch of AN stuff that would not clear, we ended up with heavy duty industrial hydraulic type stuff. The local industrial hose shop was a huge help. We filled it up with Evans water-less coolant. I come back from a few days of vacation and find some coolant on the floor. Just a couple drips mind you, but more than I would expect with all new parts... There was a pin hole near the welds on the tabs.
After I quite sobbing, I tried epoxying it. However, not wanting to take 2 steps back, I tried to do it in place with out draining the coolant. That didn't work. The coolant made it's way through the epoxy and formed a new pin hole... twice! Today we drained the coolant, wire wheeled off the epoxy (Quick Steel) and re-did it without coolant. That seems to be holding. Wish me luck!
One day, for inspiration I slapped on the hood and some of my magnetic racing numbers (that will be of no use to me on the fiberglass and aluminum skin).
The bad news is the classic hood, does not clear the pushrod suspension...
A racer friend of mine came up from Chicago to align the car with me. So down from the tables!
This one is fuzzy, because I took it quickly with my cell phone. He was more than a little nervous about me stepping back for a photo op at this point!
Down safe and sound, time for a fun (giant wheel-stand) photo!
Got it aligned, but... I chose the middle height points for the control arms. With the oil pan being the low point... I could not run over a 2x4 laid flat with my 23" race tires... Doh, one step forward, two steps back seems my pace...
So, I had to take the whole suspension off and go to the highest (lowest pick up points - still not very high) settings. Now I need another alignment....
I was inspired by having my number on the car, so I had the side panels vinyl wrapped and added the 228 placards and "AR" for my class (A-Race).
Then I installed the side pipes and see they are a little close for comfort to the vinyl. I bent out the passenger side as it had even less clearance. Time will tell. I'll keep a fire extinguisher handy when I start her up! May need some heat wrap. Open for suggestion here.
As you can see, we also started the wiring. Since I decided to keep the air intake on the shelf, my battery placement was compromised. I wanted it under hood to avoid extra safety equipment. The solve was to recess it into the shelf, and actually bolt it to the passenger side of the trans tunnel. I used an Odyssey battery and their aluminum box. I suggest you go direct with them, they were a pleasure to deal with and give a great direct price!
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/main...ccessories.htm
I'll get a pic of that up when I finish up the wiring.
I went with Speedhut's new CAN-bus style controls that pick up signal from the ECU, eliminating the need for extra sending units. I also ponied up for the GPS speedo. It has all kinds of cool toys like 1/4 mile times, 0-60, etc and will not be effected by differing street and track tire sizes. I chose to have the fuel gauge in the speedo. This should be cool watching one go rapidly down, while the other climbs! You can fully customize your set up. I went yellow. Hey, they look good on a Ferrari, and more importantly should be easy to see.
The blue tape was to protect the dash panel, but may have to stay. I dig the contrast!
Another friend of mine, who happens to be both a car nut and engineer has been invaluable with the electrical. Starting from scratch with just a painless T-bucket kit was a bit overwhelming.
So, as per past practice, another issue bit me. We added the radiator and struggled a lot to build hoses to fit the tight chassis. After paying for a bunch of AN stuff that would not clear, we ended up with heavy duty industrial hydraulic type stuff. The local industrial hose shop was a huge help. We filled it up with Evans water-less coolant. I come back from a few days of vacation and find some coolant on the floor. Just a couple drips mind you, but more than I would expect with all new parts... There was a pin hole near the welds on the tabs.
After I quite sobbing, I tried epoxying it. However, not wanting to take 2 steps back, I tried to do it in place with out draining the coolant. That didn't work. The coolant made it's way through the epoxy and formed a new pin hole... twice! Today we drained the coolant, wire wheeled off the epoxy (Quick Steel) and re-did it without coolant. That seems to be holding. Wish me luck!
07-29-2014, 08:19 AM
#67
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I'm certainly no expert on such things, but I would think solid mounting the radiator would be asking for problems with just that sort of thing - vibration causing fatigue issues at the welds. Is that not a concern?
07-29-2014, 03:50 PM
#68
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Older cars like from the 60s back had tab mounted rads. I do agree that modern rubber isolated mounting seems more ideal.
Congratulations Shaun!!! 
Now it's about time to enjoy the fruits of all that labor!! 
08-26-2014, 05:59 PM
#76
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Do you have room for these http://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-d...mounts/=tgbp7m
They work killer. Used them on several coolers, radiators, AC condenser mounts, etc. Need about 1/2" or so.
LOVE your project!
Doug
They work killer. Used them on several coolers, radiators, AC condenser mounts, etc. Need about 1/2" or so.
LOVE your project!
Doug
08-27-2014, 07:23 AM
#78
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Bet that things a blast to drive, I'm sure your excited! Wonder if it would be possible to get those things road legal and tagged. Although with how people drive, I don't know if I'd actually want to drive it on the street lol.
08-31-2014, 09:27 PM
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Thanks for all the positive feedback guys!!
These are intended to be street cars. I plan to get to the track first, and go through all the inspection stuff over the winter. It will be outrageous on the street. But think of it as safer than a motorcycle.
So, I had the car running... I somehow resisted the urge to street drive it... But Friday I trailered it to an empty lot and drove it a bit. What a thrill! I was very happy with everything, really. I loaded the car on the trailer under it's own power. The LS engine, T-56, LS7 clutch, and Speartech harness all did their jobs flawlessly.
I do not have the rad fan wired yet, and only had the catch can zip tied in. The only issue I had was the catch can leaking a bit. Have to solve that by Saturday and get the hood on it. It is time to go racing!!
The lot was freshly sealed, and I didn't want to get in to much trouble, so I took it easy. I still managed to get asked to leave. Damn Hot Rodders! It felt about like driving in the rain traction wise. I cannot wait to hit the road course!
These are intended to be street cars. I plan to get to the track first, and go through all the inspection stuff over the winter. It will be outrageous on the street. But think of it as safer than a motorcycle.
So, I had the car running... I somehow resisted the urge to street drive it... But Friday I trailered it to an empty lot and drove it a bit. What a thrill! I was very happy with everything, really. I loaded the car on the trailer under it's own power. The LS engine, T-56, LS7 clutch, and Speartech harness all did their jobs flawlessly.
I do not have the rad fan wired yet, and only had the catch can zip tied in. The only issue I had was the catch can leaking a bit. Have to solve that by Saturday and get the hood on it. It is time to go racing!!
The lot was freshly sealed, and I didn't want to get in to much trouble, so I took it easy. I still managed to get asked to leave. Damn Hot Rodders! It felt about like driving in the rain traction wise. I cannot wait to hit the road course!
