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wiring autometer gauges

Old 05-13-2013, 05:26 AM
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Default wiring autometer gauges

I did a 5.3/4l60e (out of 01 tahoe) swap in my 68' c10 , and am now trying to get my auto meter gauges wired up. I have the phantom series gauges. All electronic.

Speedometer
Tachometer
Oil pressure
Water temp
And fuel (wired and actually works) lol

I don't really have any experience with doing this and just kinda figured out the fuel gauge, call it dumb luck.

Are there any write ups on this? I have searched and not found anything.

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!

Thank you
Old 05-13-2013, 07:10 AM
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they're pretty simple really. The speedo will get power and ground, then the speed signal will come from the PCM. Same for the tach, power, ground and RPM signal from the PCM. The oil you'll need to use the sender that came with the gauges, you can either use the factory location behind the intake or drill and tap the iol bypass block above the oil filter. Behind the intake will require an adapter, but you can make one out of the original sender by breaking off the plastic part and drilling and tapping the aluminum part to fit your Autometer sender. The volt meter will just be an ignition hot wire and a ground.
Old 05-13-2013, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1nova71
they're pretty simple really. The speedo will get power and ground, then the speed signal will come from the PCM. Same for the tach, power, ground and RPM signal from the PCM. The oil you'll need to use the sender that came with the gauges, you can either use the factory location behind the intake or drill and tap the iol bypass block above the oil filter. Behind the intake will require an adapter, but you can make one out of the original sender by breaking off the plastic part and drilling and tapping the aluminum part to fit your Autometer sender. The volt meter will just be an ignition hot wire and a ground.
You wouldnt happen to know the specific PINs for the speedo and tach I need to splice into would you? My PCM is out of 2001 tahoe if that matters.

Also I have a water temp gauge, not a volt meter, will it replace the stock or will I have to "make it fit" like the oil pressure sending unit?

And you are exactly who I had hoped would reply, I have read alot of your other posts and seems to be that you know your stuff.

Thank you again

Joshua
Old 05-13-2013, 09:49 AM
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I guess i spaced off the water temp sensor and was thinking voltmeter. Anyway, Autometer has an adapter for the temp sender, so you shouldn't need to modify anything on it.

The pins for the speedo and tach are:

Speedometer - C2 (red connector) pin #50 Dark green/white wire
Tach - C2 pin #10 white wire
Old 05-13-2013, 01:01 PM
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search for the "pinout" locations on the red/ blue pcm connectors

I usually use the Autometer adapters for the sending units, both oil press (back of intake/ top of block) and temp in cylinder head
Old 05-17-2013, 08:22 PM
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Got everything wired up, and everything works. I got the speedo calibrated.

My only issue is that my tach almost vibrates (bounces really fast) when at idle and any other rpm it's smooth as glass, except at idle?

Any ideas?
Old 05-17-2013, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by joshua022
Got everything wired up, and everything works. I got the speedo calibrated.

My only issue is that my tach almost vibrates (bounces really fast) when at idle and any other rpm it's smooth as glass, except at idle?

Any ideas?
You may have to install a pull up resister. Do a search and you should be able to find the value of the resister that you need. Also, is your tach set for 4 cylinder?

Andrew
Old 05-20-2013, 11:16 AM
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Im having a weird transmission issue ever since I got the gauges finished. and I am wondering if it could be related.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...3/#post5105258

Any ideas?

thank you
Old 05-20-2013, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
You may have to install a pull up resister. Do a search and you should be able to find the value of the resister that you need. Also, is your tach set for 4 cylinder?

Andrew
I will double check what the tach is set for. Should it be 4cyl for some odd reason?
Old 05-20-2013, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by joshua022
I will double check what the tach is set for. Should it be 4cyl for some odd reason?
The OEM signal comes off one of the coil packs, so it only sends 4 pulses. It's not like an old v8 where you would tap into the negative side of the coil and register 8 pulses.

Andrew
Old 05-20-2013, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
The OEM signal comes off one of the coil packs, so it only sends 4 pulses. It's not like an old v8 where you would tap into the negative side of the coil and register 8 pulses.

Andrew
gotcha!
Old 05-20-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by joshua022
Im having a weird transmission issue ever since I got the gauges finished. and I am wondering if it could be related.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...3/#post5105258

Any ideas?

thank you
Got your PM. Your problem is the signal is being skewed by tapping dirrctly off the VSS. I know Autometer says to do it that way, but you're better off using the output from the PCM.
Old 05-23-2013, 08:43 PM
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Got a new speedo as the old one wouldnt take the signal from the PCM.

and now Im having issues with the new speedo.

http://www.autometer.com/download_in...164-00rB-2.pdf

Those are my instructions.

I must have something wired wrong is all I can figure.

I calibrated it without the lights on today and got to 4k stopped hit trip and it was calibrated but the speed was WAY off, Im talking 40mph off. If that wasnt issue enough, when I drove it tonight and I turn my lights on it goes back to the stage like it has never been programmed where the pointer is below zero.

Turn my lights off and it works again just the speed is way wrong.

Its on a 68 c10 if that matters, 5.3/4l60e out of a 2001 tahoe.

Thanks for any guidance.

Joshua
Old 05-23-2013, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by joshua022
Got a new speedo as the old one wouldnt take the signal from the PCM.

and now Im having issues with the new speedo.

http://www.autometer.com/download_in...164-00rB-2.pdf

Those are my instructions.

I must have something wired wrong is all I can figure.

I calibrated it without the lights on today and got to 4k stopped hit trip and it was calibrated but the speed was WAY off, Im talking 40mph off. If that wasnt issue enough, when I drove it tonight and I turn my lights on it goes back to the stage like it has never been programmed where the pointer is below zero.

Turn my lights off and it works again just the speed is way wrong.

Its on a 68 c10 if that matters, 5.3/4l60e out of a 2001 tahoe.

Thanks for any guidance.

Joshua
It sounds like you got some of your wires mixed up. It shouldn't loose the calibration like that. Also, it doesn't sound like you drove the car for two miles. The number of pulses can vary. You need to drive 2 miles and however many pulses it puts out, thats the calibration.

Andrew
Old 05-23-2013, 10:33 PM
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I will try the 2 mile thing, I had someone else telling me just go to 4k and stop.

And maybe I have a bad ground or something.
Old 05-24-2013, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by joshua022
I will try the 2 mile thing, I had someone else telling me just go to 4k and stop.

And maybe I have a bad ground or something.
Whoever you asked was wrong. It makes no sense to put it at 4k, because this changes based on your rear gear and tire size. My speedo is calibrated to about 74,000 pulses because I am pulling the signal off the ABS sensor, which sends 48 pulses per tire rotation.

Follow the directions in this video:


Andrew
Old 05-24-2013, 04:08 PM
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Like I said, its been a while since I set mine up so I might be a little rusty on the details. But the factory PCM puts out 4000ppm when the tune is correct. Since Autometer speesometers are looking for a 2 mile calibration, you need to set it at 8000 pulses. If your tune is correct, the speedo will be right on the money. If your tune isn't exactly correct you can adjust the speedo from there. Its true that rear end gear and tire size will affect the speedo, but if your tune is way off, then so will your shift points, so it needs to be set pretty close.
Old 05-24-2013, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1nova71
Like I said, its been a while since I set mine up so I might be a little rusty on the details. But the factory PCM puts out 4000ppm when the tune is correct. Since Autometer speesometers are looking for a 2 mile calibration, you need to set it at 8000 pulses. If your tune is correct, the speedo will be right on the money. If your tune isn't exactly correct you can adjust the speedo from there. Its true that rear end gear and tire size will affect the speedo, but if your tune is way off, then so will your shift points, so it needs to be set pretty close.
Right. If you specify the correct gear ration and tire size in the tune, then 4000ppm will be correct. However, if you run a manual transmission, the tune parameters are not super important. It all depends on what the exact setup is. The speedo calibration can operate independent of the calibration for the ECU.

Andrew
Old 05-24-2013, 06:26 PM
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Ok, so now I'm not sure. I just looked at my car and it IS sat 4000ppm and the speedo reads exactly the same as the mph on my Tech II scanner. So maybe the OPs tune is just off by a lot?
Old 05-24-2013, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1nova71
Ok, so now I'm not sure. I just looked at my car and it IS sat 4000ppm and the speedo reads exactly the same as the mph on my Tech II scanner. So maybe the OPs tune is just off by a lot?
If your tach is set to 4000ppm then it make sense that it reads exactly the same as your TechII, because the TechII is expecting 4000ppm.

The question is: is your speedo reading your actual speed accurately?

When I did my calibration, using the ABS sensor, I verified my speed with the GPS on my phone.

Are you sure that your speedo is displaying actual ground speed?

Andrew

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