Aceshigh

Hey guys, I'm putting a T-56 into my 1970 442 and have a few questions for you other A-body guys who did this.
I own a Lincoln 180 mig, but my skills are kinda rusty and I'm not terribly confident in my ability to fabricate a replacement.
I welded up my my old electrical harness fuse block hole and it wasn't all that great.
Seriously I sucked so bad.......I lost faith as I'm not a skilled welder on thin sheet metal.

I did some researching on the forum already and I believe I read the floorboards are .033" which is between
22 gauge Galv. I read alot of guys used 18 gauge cold rolled steel with success. Galvanized I realize has toxic
fumes if not properly grinded down prior to welding. (I took welding classes a year ago)
So not sure if I should use cold rolled which rusts easier, or galvanized if recommended to fab one up.

So my question is:
What do you think is the best route to go to finish this bad boy up with a trans tunnel ??
I do realize I need to get my trans crossmember done first BTW.
I have the old tunnel I plasma cut out, and realistically it could be reused with 2-3" of sheet metal added all around.
Or should I buy a premade trans tunnel online that would work ?? That's why I'm asking, not sure if there are any.

I also REQUIRE a custom trans cross member fabbed up that clears the exhaust,
or if someone knows of one that exists I can purchase, I'M ALL EARS!!!!!
Going to attempt to use the Edelbrock SS A-body headers.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a bottle on your welder or are you using flux core wire? If you've got a bottle did you try using the small .023 wire? That made a world of difference for me on my trans tunnel.

Aceshigh

I've got a monster argon bottle.
The only problem is the guy I bought the MIG off of, has a big *** spool of wire on it and it's NOT marked.
So I honestly have no clue what size wire it is. This is screwin me up.....

I suppose I could just yank it off, and put on the .023" wire until I figure it out.
I've just never done this, so not sure exactly how to bend the sheet metal into a proper shape
I was assuming I'd need those roller tools.......or whatever they're called.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Cant you use the A body crossmember? It has the reliefs for the exhaust. Just redrill the frame for new location.

Aceshigh

I'm not exactly sure yet Gary......
I just called Hurst Driveline and they told me to use the factory one, as is moved back a few inches.
Then he said use Energy Suspension 31108G as the mount......but it's already high in the car without it.
Most people I've seen cut and reweld theirs crossmember mount lower to make it work, so I'm at a loss.

I've seen pictures of other guys efforts and they had to cut and weld their new X-pipes to clear the stock cross member.
There is the BRP kit for F-body's with LSX installs, just haven't checked A-body stuff because it's $500+ for the kit.

I just did more research......
Looks like I need to use 20 gauge cold rolled steel and I'm looking for sources.
So far locally half a sheet, 30" x 60", most places want $50 for it.

Metals Depot sells a 20 gauge 2' x 4' sheet for $36 shipped.
Any other options, I'm all ears if people know inexpensive sources.

BTW I found Stealth71's trans tunnel where he added material to the old tunnel to make it work.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/5717089-post83.html

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

You're on your own on the tunnel, I don't weld either.
On the crossmember, I know lots of people modify, weld for a new mount. On my corvette with a non-removable crossmember, I needed to lower the trans mount about 1/2" with the Richmond 6 speed. Instead of welding the crossmember, I spent about $10 to make a lower profile rubber trans mount. If that will work for you I have pics.

Aceshigh

I need to get an angle finder at Harbor Freight this week.
http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-ga...der-34214.html

Then I'll know exactly what I need. Thanks tho.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yeah.. I cut the top of my Tunnel off also.. had a sheet metal guy form a new top and welded it in. Sorry I forgot to take picture of it done..



You could add the 2"-3" strip of metal around. but that would be double the work of fitting and welding. Suggest start with a fresh piece and fit it once.

For my trans cross member. I just cut the tap off and flipped it around and welded it back in place as needed. It was a TH350 one.

superdave84

I didn't have to cut my tunnel up, except I had a spot near the firewall that needed to be moved a bit. For the crossmember, I extended the little ledges that were on the stock frame so that I could place it there. I also put spacers between the new ledge and the crossmember, raising the whole rear of the trans about 1/2" so that my exhaust would clear and everything would be tucked up as high as possible. I also did what bczee did and extended the corossmember out a little bit for a more perfect fit for my setup.

Aceshigh

Well unfortunately the Olds / Pontiac platforms have very different trans crossmembers......
Mine looks like this.....I do believe I saw someone just welded in some plate steel to drop it though....



American Powertrain 600Xtreme has a pretty funky looking simple crossmember design out of thick aluminum stock.
I'm thinkin I might explore something like this......gotta find a metal supply shop, and not sure if my 20 ton press will bend this or not.

They do sell a Universal kit, but it's $345...... http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8426...djustable.html
Trans Dapt makes a universal setup for only $80 but not sure about the fitment yet.....




I scoured Ebay and they are selling Chevelle TH350/400 crossmembers for $90-$120 plus $30 for shipping........so I might
as well just make my own I guess, or order a ready to go unit. This is my biggest fear of buying a Chevelle crossmember.....

Aceshigh

I would absolutely love for this to be as simple as possible.....However to do this starting from scratch I need to know how to round out the metal to shape it properly like it was from the factory. I'm not sure how to do that without the special machine shop tools.

Any ideas I'm all ears......

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Yep, same crossmember on mine. It just sits in the frame rails so you can move it back easily. Just drill a couple new holes in the rail to hold it in place.
Found the pics of the low profile trans mount. You can buy rubber coil spring spacers to make the trans mount for under $10 at Autozone.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

Aceshigh -
You are over thinking. I should know, I also do it.

<Trans Tunnel>
You have the tools you need. Get some metal and start bending it. You should be able to bend this stuff with your hands + some grunting. People have used telephone poles and all sorts of stuff to bend the metal around to get a shape. Just get a rough idea of what you want with cardboard first, then go for it.
I understand not having 100% confidence in your welding ability, but that is the magic of steel. If it looks like crap, you can either cut it out and do it again, or grind it down until it looks pretty. It will be OK.

<Trans cross member>
I was able to use my factory TH350 Chevelle cross member, but moved back. For whatever reason, I didn't even have to flip the mounting tab.
You have a welder and an ability to cut metal. You can make your exhaust go around the cross member.

Do it yourself. It will be much cheaper, and you will get that satisfaction.
The only way your welding skills will improve, is through practice.

Troy

Aceshigh

Thanks man, I'm gettin my 2nd set of DSE inspired wooden dollies made today to get the car up in the air
I just remembered the thread I had saved where a 1966 GTO had the same trans crossmember that was modified.

I totally forgot this guy had a ton of pics with his custom tunnel fabrication.

http://www.pro-touring.com/drive-tra...tml#post611387

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Looks like a lot of work. I still say make a lower profile rubber mount.

nlpy8b

I did exactly like the stealth picture you posted. Cut out the entire tunnel back to the bracing. Raised and pulled back the original tunnel by about 2.5" all around. Used thin scrap sheet metal straps to tack it in place after checking clearance for engine/trans removal, and then welded up completely with sheet metal. Like stated above, don't over think it. We shaped our sheet metal over a bucket.

Oh, and I've never welded until this project. Now I've done the trans tunnel, boxed the crossmember for fbody a/c location, welded in motor mounts, fabricated seat stands/console stands, and even TIG welded crappy oily cast aluminum oil pan for twin turbo oil dumps.

When in doubt check out Denmahs turbo builds...they will definitely give you the confidence to realize the DIYer can get it done.