c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

I already ordered the AFM delete kit and will be installing it after I clean the engine up a bit. I saw another post where the guy used some mothers aluminum etcher and it looked awesome when he was done.

The Marine Power engines are going to supply me a fuel system, bellhousing, top mount starter, alternator, and oil pan and remote oil filter. I'm pretty much selling everything else separately. I was going to use the center rise wet exhausts that came on them, but with the stainless riser I think it will look funny.




So I am going to use the ones that fit from Kodiak. I'm kind of going for this look, except blue.




Riddle Marine will be supplying me with a bunch of cool stuff, and I get to pick it all up next month when I am visiting my folks in the Spokane area

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

I also decided to go with the Mast cam. They can supply me with an airboat setup which is set to run speed density, or so they say. Also it has a bit more fuel in the midrange for safety. I know its not as cheap as the DIY harness and a cam from Pat G and tune, but it just seems all around easier, and I (and especially my wife) don't want any extra headaches. I really wan't to have this thing in ready in the garage, and waiting to bolt in once the snow starts melting. The Mast kit just seems the easiest. Dyno proven tune and speed density so I don't need the wideband o2

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Chris Tucker over at Riddle Marine is a boss. He put together a package of shiny bits and brackets and such that I would need. Yes, I could have used the MarinePower stuff, but hey, I want this thing to shine! Since I was going to visit my folks near Spokane for Thanksgiving, I decided to bring all the stuff home with me I also had a few things shipped to my Dad's to save some dough as well. It saved a TON on shipping since I can check 2 bags free for each traveler. We came down with 2 bags, but bought back 6 rink: In addition to the parts from Riddle, I brought back a LS3 intake and fuel rail, AFM/DOD delete kit, and 3 stage main shaft and stator. :Laugh1: :Noteeth:



It all made it home safe, despite TSA's best efforts to screw it up. They opened and inspected every bag/box we brought except one. They must have grown tired of all the parts, maybe next time they'll repack it the same way they found it. Oh well, just a few small scuffs and scratches, no big deal.

Did I mention we don't have any Sonic's up here...My daughter was a champ and put up with the road trip, so we enjoyed some dogs and cherry limeaids at a local park.



I wish we would have had a bunch more time to go visit some of the other builders, but since my folks live in Colville, we spend a good 7-8 hours driving that day. We wanted to get back before dark. Plus, I'm sure my daughter would have become bored at some point.

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

I also received my Mast package the other day. I'm got to wait till Christmas to open that box though.

Here's where it sits so far...The cylinder bores and pistons look great (IMO).





So, a couple questions:

Am I really hurting anything by not wanting to pull the pistons and rering and a quick ball hone? Compression is great on the pistons, 195 - 205 spread all the way across. There are no marks or scuffs in the cylinders and the motor didn't look like it burned oil or had blowby problems.

If I do pull the rotating assembly, should I replace the crank seal? I know to replace the barbel.

When I pull the valve springs off for the cam change, should I replace the valve seals? How reliable are these stock seals? Like I said, there is no evidence of oil burning in the engine.

As far as rockers go, the trunnion upgrade seems to be popular. How many people have really had problems with the needle bearings falling out. Ive read a few threads where there was some premature wear and issues with the aftermarket upgrades.


Any thing else you guys can think of? Id almost rather save the money on the trunnion upgrade and rings/bearings for a refresh/rebuild in a couple years. My boat will probably only run 20-30 hours each year, so Its not like I'm going to wear it out too quick. Probably spend most of its time in the 3-4k range. Rev limiter will be set around 5700 or so...

Thanks

Joe

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

If you pull the pan and nothing is OBVIOUSLY LOOSE, don't touch it. It doesn't have a lot of miles on it for modern standards. You were worried about a 176k mile motor? Shouldn't have been. I put a 240k mile 5.3 in my S10 and it runs like a raped ape without a single noise in it at all.

I would clean the piston tops, and the cylinder heads with some good cleaner. Go through them with a rough brush of some sort to get all the buildup off, toss on new head gaskets, and if you are feeling spendy, get yourself an ARP stud kit for the heads. Throw the rest of your motor together, drop it in the dingy, and go to haulin azz on the water.

I rode in a 24 foot boat in Maryland that had a supercharged 454 in it, but it kept kicking the belt.

The trunion upgrade is an option, but with your engine having low miles, I would leave that back burner for a while. So long as nothing is obvious for destruction, I would try running it just like it is and go from there.

If you are pulling the timing cover for the cam upgrade, then NOW is the time to just go ahead and replace the crank seal. it doesn't cost much and peace of mind is key when out on the water in a boat and no tool set and extra parts handy.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I would replace any seal that you can touch now.. cost would not be that costly now.. If you have the spring off. The Seal is a simple job.

Have not had any problem with my stock rocker so far.. 7 years running with many miles cruising, doing Auto-X and 1/4 mile runs (+6k runs) from time to time.

BC

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Just a hint, TSA's GOAL is to make you upset so that you then have some sort of "problem" and they can then force your journey to "come to an end"!! They are rude, inconsiderate, asinine, power tripping asswipes that should be shot on sight sometimes.

Best of luck on you build up and don't forget to get some vids. Something else, if your daughter shows an interest, get her involved in doing some of the stuff for the project. When she is 16 or 17 and shutting up boys with her knowledge of engines, you will have to invest in shotguns and rock salt ammo..

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Ha, I already am stockpiling the ammo...

Thanks for the replies. Ill probably just leave it well enough alone then. Ill replace the seals on the heads though when I rebuild it.

As far as oil pumps go. Whats generally recommended for a VVT engine? Just the stock one I assume. As far as I can tell from GM, Its the same one for both engines. Also, removing the high pressure relief in the pan doesn't make a big deal does it? I could drill and tap the other pan I have to use the stock pan relief.

Should I even worry about trying to degree the Mast VVT cam?

Joe

cam

iTrader: (9)

Head seals? I wouldnt change a thing that doesnt need it. THe gaskets and seals in these things are not prone to leak, at all.

As for degreeing the cam? Completely unecessary as you use the VVT phaser to set the cam adv/ret so just put it arrow to arrow and go. Timing chain upgrade cant hurt. I like the iWis C5R chain but the LS2 is also good.

Oil pump? Stock replacement and no they are not all the same just be sure the PN matches that engine but I wouldnt hesitate to reuse the pump it came with.

Trunion upgrade? Meh if you dont have miles on the engine ( 175k+ ) then im a fan of stockers.

Oil pressure relief not needed, I dont have one and im on year 3 of 7500RPM shifts and LOTS of miles, no issues.

If you dont want to drop the crank to do a 24x swap you can use the Lingenfelter 24x conversion box but its been known to have heat sensitivity and has been a bit buggy

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, "head seals"...meant valve seals. I guess ill just see what they look like when I take the springs off. I'm sure they will be ok. Besides, if they do leak just a bit, ill just replace them when I rebuild the thing.

Good deal on the oil pump. I read somewhere the vvt/afm oil pump was different than the vvt only pump. I thought I looked up a L99 pump and it had the same number as mine, but I can't remember...Ive read/learned so much on these engines, I hope I don't forget some of the tricks during the install.

Lingenfelter box isn't needed. Full on stand alone Mast M-90 system is under the tree with the cam...

I know it was expensive, but when I added all the parts up for the wiring harness, ecm, cam, springs, o2 adapters for the manifolds, dyno tune ...etc, it just made sense for me. Pretty much all I really need to get now is the comp phaser limiter kit. I think mast should sell these with the cam, but hey, its only money.

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Ah, screw it. I'm just going to do a quick rebuild it while its apart.
I guess Ill need new:
Bearings: cam/rod/main
Rings
seals/gaskets: Valve seals (might as well), front/rear crank, rear cover plate, diverter barbell.

I already have a new front cover gasket and parts for the AFM delete and cam change.

Im sure its not necissary, but Ill sleep a bit better for sure. Then I'll be able to keep an accurate estimation of engine time and rebuild frequency.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Post 24 pic, what oil pan is that?

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Its made either for or by MarinePower USA and is their "JETPAC PAN"

Its low clearance in the back (I think around 5"" for clearance mating up to the jet unit intake. It doesn't have a filter boss either, just ports for the remote filter. Capacity is 7 quarts if I recall.

Ill look at it more when I get home and start tearing down the block. Ill see if there are any casting numbers or part numbers on the windage tray and pan.

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Well, the block is still at the machine shop getting cleaned and honed. They had a couple sick days with the flu. I hope I get it back so I can finish putting it together this hitch home. While I was bored, I figured a bit of paint and polish should help it look good.

LORDDiESEL

Very cool project!

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Yay, I get to pick the engine up tomorrow and start some assembly. While I've been away at work, I found some jet parts and impellers. New impellers are pretty spendy, but this guy had a whole pile of ones to try. His old pump was behind a 525 hp 6.2, so Ill probably be good.

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

It was a complete 3 stage Hamilton 773, with 4 extra impellers, a sand trap, a separate trim nozzle w/ controls and posi nozzle. Not a bad deal...I don't need all these parts, but now Ill be able to sell my complete 2 stage and not just some parts.



All crated up and ready to ship to AK. The barge via Lynden Cargo was only $133.

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

I did get my block back and started some assembly. I didn't make it too far...The rings the machine shop ordered for me were WRONG. They had the pistons, so IMO there is no excuses. They are having some sent ASAP, but still wont be here till tuesday. LAME! I did get the cam installed and the heads built. I checked a the mains, they are right at .002 and i did check a couple of the rods at .0025. Thrust is at .003. Pretty much where I wan't to be from the research and phone calls I have made. I just need to get the right rings to finish putting together the long block. I did install the cam and oil pump though to save a bit of time. I also gave the valves a quick lap job and installed the seals and springs...Its just a waiting game now...

c-bolt

iTrader: (1)

Also, for those who might have missed it. The L92 truck injectors are not the same size as the LS3/L76. I did a bunch of research and thought they would swap over, but nooo...too short:



the connectors are the same though...



I called Mast, and they suggested to source a Throttle Body while I was at it. They have a better baseline tune for the L76/LY6 cam package with the complete LS3 intake/injectors/TB. I found mine on Amazon for a good deal.

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

Looking great man, it'll be a runner for sure.