speedaddict78

Got my LS1 in my '78 Cutlass.. Naturally, the P/S rear coil pack hits the A/C box on the firewall. I'm not removing it and I am trying to avoid having to modify the box. I was able to modify the bracket to get the coil on a 45* angle facing the front of the motor so it does not touch the box.. But the plug wire still touches.. I mean, I can drive it like that and hope nothing happens, but any engine movement towards the passenger side and the coil will hit and the wire will get crimped.. So I'm not happy with the way it is..

Just wondering what you guys did, the retained the factory air box on the firewall and used the stock LS1 valvecovers..

I'll try an get a pic uploaded in a few..

If/when I ever need taller valve covers, there is no way they will fit without removing the case on the firewall.. That sux, but if/when I come to that point, I will deal with it.

speedaddict78

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

I cant speak on LS1 coils and brackets.

The rear corner of passenger cylinder heads busted my A/C box mostly when putting the motor in with 1in seatback plates. My truck coil and wire fits pretty fine, the mounting boss and corner of the bracket is real close though.

Could you mod the bracket so its a little higher? I don't me higher off the valve cover but higher as in at the same mounting angle and far enough so its away from the ac box a little more. The problem is because they are mounted to low.

speedaddict78

Yeah mine did too, hence the duct tape on the case.. lol I had to install the motor 3 times b/c of issues with my mounting plates.. The first time it went in, didn't hit.. The last time I wasn't watching and it hit. Then I was pissed and let it hit like 3 more times b/c it was already broke.. lol

Moving it up toward the intake is what I was thinking.. Just wanted to see if anyone has done it and if so, how they did it.. I have a few ideas to relocate it, just wanted to see what others have done.. Thanks

I also just found an A/C delete cover that lets you retain heat for the G Body.. I'm considering this too.. I really wanted to keep the A/C, but it will save me a lot of money and headache to just delete it, especially since it will just be a weekend cruiser..

locrzn

iTrader: (9)

You may have the motor setting back to far, the mounts are adjustable front to rear. I don't have an issue with mine on my malibu, its close but not touching. I'm running a f body pan I'm I still have some room I can move mine forward a 1/2", my clearance problem is with my front header tube on the passenger side and its touching the control arm bracket. Thats my winter project, well there are more and thats just one of them.

speedaddict78

My Trans Dapt mounts/plates are non-adjustable. And IIRC, I think there is like 1/2" clearance between my oil pan and frame.. Using stock f-body pan..

I used Pace setter F body headers..Had to modify the collector on the D/S to get the angle correctly lined up with my transmission crossmember.. And I had to dent in one tube on the passenger side b/c it hit the frame..

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...dy-update.html

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

This is what I was talking about moving the whole bracket up. Im sure this is what you were thinking as well. Came across a thread from a forum member.

Link: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ke-sticky.html

Only difference is he moved his coils lower, just do the reverse.