ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I think the answer to this question is yes, they do move the motor to the rear and as low as possible in the frame. They are not adjustable, but from my research are the best for fitting your transmission WITHOUT cutting the trans tunnel. I fit my t56 with no modifications (other than cutting for the shifter) and actually have a comfortable amount of room.

FWIW, I currently have the truck pan on my car and it "fits", but is kissing the sub-frame. I will be pulling the motor soon to swap out in favor of the 302-2 or 302-3 if it is out in enough time.

Toddoky

Holley released a 4th-gen style accessory drive system a few months ago that I believe will fit also based on my experience, but I can't say for certain since I've not had a chance to test fit it in a 1st-gen F-body yet. The reason I think it will fit is that the Holley set-up can be installed at the F-body or truck offset and the truck offset is the one I think that will be bolt-on compatible.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I've bought all truck stuff for my accessories.

Toddoky

Please post-up the results of your experience with the truck accessory drive fitment as I'm be curious to know myself so I can update the application guide accordingly. Good luck to you.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I'm sliding motor back a little, I'm thinking it should be fine.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

You might want to post your experiences in another section as this is meant specifically for the Holley motor mounts for f and x bodies. If you are changing the mounting location, it won't be as helpful to others.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Gotcha will do.

Toddoky

What are you using for engine and trans mounts John?

Chevy Kid

I've done this exact same thing. Truck balancer with 4th gen accessories and 3/4" spacers. You will have to trim the plastic guard on the alternator and access to the charge wire is tight, but it clears fine. A truck alternator will not work, I tried.

A/C compressor is another story. I am running a Sanden 7176. Both the Holley low mount and Dirty Dingo low mount will not work. I fabbed my own.

I would have notched the frame (on both sides), but my subframe was powdercoated and assembled and I didn't want to go backwards.

Tim

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Setting the engine back, got Dirty Dingo slider mounts but if the Holley stuff slides too I'd use that.

Toddoky

Thanks for clarifying. No, the Holley engine brackets won't allow fore/aft adjustment of the engine position, but they will install the engine in the subframe lower than any mounts that work with 1st-gen factory frame stands and engine mounts.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Ah good to know. My turbo fab buddy is pretty adamant about setting the motor back. I am going to run a 302-2 pan, high ram, dominator etc.

Toddoky

Understood, the 302-2 should work good for you. As a point of reference, this image shows the fore/aft engine position the Hooker engine brackets provide relative to the firewall.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

John, for what it's worth I took a lot of time researching all of the options out there for putting an LS motor in a first gen, and decided on the Hooker Headers 12618HKR mounts because of the optimal driveline angles and setback. Simply said, the mounts just work.

Installation was a breeze, and it puts the motor in the perfect position (my opinion of course). My first LS swap in a 2nd gen Fbody I used the dirty dingo sliders as I thought it would give me a lot more options, but realistically it caused more effort in the long run to get all of the driveline components to work together happily.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Good deal, look forward to reading about your build.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I've read this thread several times over the years and a few within the last week so I apologize if this has already been answered:

What do you do when running an old Muncie, TH350, or Powerglide behind an LS with these Hooker engine mounts? I'm not asking how to make the transmission work with the engine, but about crossmember and driveshaft fitment.

Can I keep my stock crossmember and HD chrome moly driveshaft ? 1968 Camaro with manual steering and brakes. Switching from a 555" BBC/PG combo to a carbed/cammed L96 and Muncie 4 speed. I'm planning on using the Holley 302-2 oil pan and would like to use these Hooker engine mounts too. Will I have to use some other swap brackets if I want to keep the bellhousing flange in the stock location? Will the Hooker headers (longtube or mid-length) work with the back of the block in the sbc/bbc location?

I've read tons of build threads and there are so many different combinations. I really like this Hooker engine mount with it's clamshell design and good driveling angles.

Toddoky

As the Hooker engine mounts and transmission crossmember move the engine/trans mating plane forward slightly(about 5/8"),neither of them would be compatible with your Muncie being left in the stock location.

The 2nd and 3rd primary tubes of the Hooker long tube headers split around the steering box with an equal amount of clearance, so if you were to use them with a greater amount of engine set-back you may have interference between the 2nd tube and the front of the steering box. That would be the least of your issues as the headers are not compatible with your mechanical clutch linkage.

The Holley 302 oil pan will work for you even if you use another set of engine mounting brackets other than the Hooker parts.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I really appreciate the reply and hate to say that after even more searching I found where you had replied to a similar thread a couple of years ago and even worse it was me that had posted it. This new post still answered some questions I didn't have back then and gives me plenty to think about.

G Atsma

^^It's a bitch getting older, huh? lol

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

Yes sir it is