64.5 Mustang conversion to 6.0 LY6
02-07-2014, 03:05 AM
#61
I am wondering if the idler will bend (at the alt.) after time. Might have to gusset it back to the spacer/pipe.
02-07-2014, 08:03 AM
#62
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shouldn't bend- it's 1/4" steel and there are three bolts to the block- one right under the top idler that u can't see. I will prob weld some braces between the spacers to hold everything from twisting but with my mig- tig would be nice but I went steel so I could weld it myself or I would have done aluminum. It's just tac welded now so after I pull it down I'll finish weld and smooth it out. My buddy is doing powder coating so I'll prob have him gloss black everything. Guess we'll see how good I did when it runs!
02-23-2014, 03:44 PM
#64
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
got the power steering bracket all designed after scanning the motor and pump then creating a perfect solution in solid works. Couple more tweeks then we can have it water jetted and bent up and i can test fit and weld it together. If anyone else wants to mount a ford mustang 05-09 ps pump on the passenger side of a truck motor, we could prob have a few made...but i will test fit everything first..
so question- whats with buying a t65 trans? I have been told i need one from an LS motor only and they are like $2500 - is this my only option for a manual trans? Can a LT motor trans work somehow with a different bellhousing or somthing? Man this budget build is gonna be expensive.
so question- whats with buying a t65 trans? I have been told i need one from an LS motor only and they are like $2500 - is this my only option for a manual trans? Can a LT motor trans work somehow with a different bellhousing or somthing? Man this budget build is gonna be expensive.
02-23-2014, 09:15 PM
#66
...so question- whats with buying a t65 trans? I have been told i need one from an LS motor only and they are like $2500 - is this my only option for a manual trans? Can a LT motor trans work somehow with a different bellhousing or somthing? Man this budget build is gonna be expensive.
03-08-2014, 05:18 PM
#67
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well ive been working on my cousins car getting his 5speed swap done- 67 mustang 302- and havent had much time on my ride. BUT, this week the wife and kids are out of town and i have lots of time to work on the car now. Went out there today and started working on my brake pedal and gas pedal. I have a rebuilt stock clutch/brake assy. that i am installing and a 95 mustang brake master and booster to match my brake calipers etc... i had drill two new holes in the firewall and the new booster assy. dropped right in, but the brake linkage was about an inch short of the pin on the brake arm, making the pedal about two inches low if you attached it. I yanked the pedals out, drilled a new hole farther back on the arm and pressed the pin out and welded it into the new hole. Now my brake pedal sits level with the clutch pedal and the 95 brake assy. drops right on no modification!
Next up was the corvette brake pedal. Since im using an e38 ecu, the late model corvette pedal works perfectly and is made of metal so i can bend/weld it if need be. First i made a plate to fit the back of the pedal and drilled out the two holes from the pedal into the plate. After bolting the pedal to the plate with a couple small bolts, i welded the nuts to the back of this plate. I started to mount the top of the pedal pretty low, like by the bottom of the steering column but realized that the arc of the pedal would be drastically different than the arc of the brake pedal. After referring to some LS1 tech files, i decided to mount it as high up as i could and make the pedal line up with the rest of them. First i took some 1/4" x4" plate i had here, and made a C channel the width of the plate that i had just made. This let the pedal on the plate sit just inside of the C, then i held that up under the dash and figured out approx. where i wanted it to sit. Then i tac welded the lower part of the plate into the C channel and sat it back under the dash again. Then i could twist the plate to position the pedal at the correct height, and then tac welded that in place. After verifying this a few times, i cut off the excess and finish welded the plate into the C channel, Then grinded/weld thru primered and then welded the box to the firewall of the car- under the dash. Once this was up there it was pretty sturdy but had alittle flex when you pushed hard on the gas so i got another piece of 1/4" plate and made a support to reinforce the bottom of the pedal to the firewall. Now its very rigid and the pedals are lined up nicely. I did have to do some bending on the gas pedal to kick it left since stock it jogs right, but not bad. I jumped in the car and tried out my pedal position for foot clearance and it seems excellent even with my work boots on. Only concern i have it the gas pedal pad coming off if i heal toe on the race track- as its already fallen off once. I may have to tac weld the pin in place or get a heavier pedal. Slow progress but hopefully one day it will all add up.
Next up was the corvette brake pedal. Since im using an e38 ecu, the late model corvette pedal works perfectly and is made of metal so i can bend/weld it if need be. First i made a plate to fit the back of the pedal and drilled out the two holes from the pedal into the plate. After bolting the pedal to the plate with a couple small bolts, i welded the nuts to the back of this plate. I started to mount the top of the pedal pretty low, like by the bottom of the steering column but realized that the arc of the pedal would be drastically different than the arc of the brake pedal. After referring to some LS1 tech files, i decided to mount it as high up as i could and make the pedal line up with the rest of them. First i took some 1/4" x4" plate i had here, and made a C channel the width of the plate that i had just made. This let the pedal on the plate sit just inside of the C, then i held that up under the dash and figured out approx. where i wanted it to sit. Then i tac welded the lower part of the plate into the C channel and sat it back under the dash again. Then i could twist the plate to position the pedal at the correct height, and then tac welded that in place. After verifying this a few times, i cut off the excess and finish welded the plate into the C channel, Then grinded/weld thru primered and then welded the box to the firewall of the car- under the dash. Once this was up there it was pretty sturdy but had alittle flex when you pushed hard on the gas so i got another piece of 1/4" plate and made a support to reinforce the bottom of the pedal to the firewall. Now its very rigid and the pedals are lined up nicely. I did have to do some bending on the gas pedal to kick it left since stock it jogs right, but not bad. I jumped in the car and tried out my pedal position for foot clearance and it seems excellent even with my work boots on. Only concern i have it the gas pedal pad coming off if i heal toe on the race track- as its already fallen off once. I may have to tac weld the pin in place or get a heavier pedal. Slow progress but hopefully one day it will all add up.
03-08-2014, 07:23 PM
#68
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OH i almost forgot- my buddy's brother in law has a t56 but its from an Aston-Martin Vanquish i guess? He said he has an LS bellhousing for it and its in good shape- $800. Any idea what it takes to put this in? I know the shifter position is alittle further up which may make my shifter too far forward- im going to borrow it for awhile and see if i can get it to work. Not sure if it'll bolt up and just needs a different clutch, or if it will need some serious work to even bolt to the motor. I can get a different driveshaft since i'll have to get a custom one made anyway. Ideas?
03-08-2014, 09:03 PM
#69
TECH Addict
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: N. FL
Posts: 2,708
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd expect 3 shifter mounting positions, so if it's too far forward, hopefully not from the rear position. They make them for so many cars, as long as you have the bell housing, you should be able to move the cross member if needed and be good to go. You may want to know which version it is for gear ratio purposes.
03-09-2014, 08:53 AM
#70
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no issues as far as bolting it to the block like pilot bearing sizes, input shaft length etc? I think the spline for the clutch is different but i should be able to find a clutch disc that will work with what ever spline it has.
03-09-2014, 01:44 PM
#71
TECH Addict
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: N. FL
Posts: 2,708
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, well you'll definitely wanna look up the length and spline count and compare it to the version used in the Camaro for a match. Maybe just contact Tremec directly.
Btw, I'd kinda expect that unit to only have 2 shift mount positions, but I was thinking an Aston would possiby be a 7spd.
Btw, I'd kinda expect that unit to only have 2 shift mount positions, but I was thinking an Aston would possiby be a 7spd.
03-09-2014, 10:16 PM
#72
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so the day started pretty slow- just welding up some holes in my firewall to smooth things out. This evening my buddy dropped off my Aston trans and i bolted it up to the motor. Input shaft is the right length, im sure a different pilot bearing will be required, but with the LS bell housing it dropped on and the splines are all the way up to the pilot bearing area for the clutch disc. I was afraid of the distance of the shifter since most people seem to use the camaro trans thats further back. After dropping the engine/trans in, the shifter popped up through the hole in the floor! Its slightly forward, enough that i'll be cutting the floor but not bad enough that i cant get a swept back shifter and be good. The trans fits pretty good in the tunnel but i may need to cut it open slightly to keep it from being tight up against the top, i'll have to get an angle and see where it needs to be i may have it jacked up too high. Now to find a clutch disc that is the same as an LS with an Aston center spline....
03-09-2014, 10:21 PM
#73
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
so the day started pretty slow- just welding up some holes in my firewall to smooth things out. This evening my buddy dropped off my Aston trans and i bolted it up to the motor. Input shaft is the right length, im sure a different pilot bearing will be required, but with the LS bell housing it dropped on and the splines are all the way up to the pilot bearing area for the clutch disc. I was afraid of the distance of the shifter since most people seem to use the camaro trans thats further back. After dropping the engine/trans in, the shifter popped up through the hole in the floor! Its slightly forward, enough that i'll be cutting the floor but not bad enough that i cant get a swept back shifter and be good. The trans fits pretty good in the tunnel but i may need to cut it open slightly to keep it from being tight up against the top, i'll have to get an angle and see where it needs to be i may have it jacked up too high. Now to find a clutch disc that is the same as an LS with an Aston center spline....
Andrew
03-09-2014, 10:55 PM
#74
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this may work out way easier than i thought. I read somewhere that you needed to change imput shafts and do all kinds of stuff that i would not like to do. Cant beat that! Wonder what kind of driveshaft input i can use....
03-09-2014, 11:08 PM
#75
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Andrew
03-10-2014, 09:29 PM
#78
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes all the dodges seem to have the 30 spline and the aston. Did some trimming on the trans tunnel tonite. Its alot of work getting the trans up in there at a decent angle without trying to drop my motor down since its in the perfect spot right now. Started cutting the floor back and ended up going about the length of the trans to the firewall to clear the top of this giant thing. I cut the old trans brace out, lengthened it 3/4" on each side and tac welded it back in after some relief cuts and welding. That raised it up but once i reinstalled the trans its once again up to the brace. At this max height i have about 3.5-4 degrees at the output shaft with the car leveled at the rockers. Will this work or do i need to slot the motor mounts to drop it - i have about an inch i can come down potentially with the motor but slotting the mounts seems tricky to get correct. I dont want to raise the tunnel up more than i have it now or it'll be hard to put a molded carpet in. Damn i already know the answer..... oh and i want the car to be pretty low once its done so im sure the less angle the better.
03-10-2014, 09:34 PM
#79
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i may end up pulling the trans brace back out- just tac'd in- then cutting the bottom of it out and boxing it to make more room up top- then weld it in. THEN i have to make another trans brace, further back that it will actually attach to and hold the trans up.